petee_c

I suppose my 1/2" pilot hole was telling a fib. I rented a sds max drill for the weekend and drilled the 1st hole and then tried to set the anchor. It would not take. I drilled 2 more holes. And decided to measure the depth of the new full bore holes. Only got 3". No way the anchors will hold. Now researching options for pouring a 30x30x8" footing for each post.

Oh well. $50 down the drain. Hopefully I can salvage my 1st anchor when I bust out the cement.

Arghhh!!!

1way2rock

Sorry to hear that.

Let is know how it ends up. Pictures would be great.

JimV8

There are fasteners epoxies that will work well for that application. Go to a Brafasco store and ask for advice. I've used fastener epoxies that are stronger than wedge anchors.

pontifex4

As Jim said, if you punch through the pad with the drill but still have > 3", I've heard that epoxy can still save the day. Again, though, I don't know. That's just what I've heard.

mjh1

Petee, As the two said above you can use a product made by ITW it's called EPCON A7 Acrylic Adhesive this will work even better than just the anchour, check out this website

http://www.itw-redhead.com/a7prod02.asp

Here is their Canadian customer service office in Mississauga
http://www.itwconstruction.ca/contactus.asp
Contact the Red Head office phone number

Hope this helps

firesm

Peter,
You will be able to recover your anchor once you bust out the concrete. If your concrete is only 3" you should really pour new footings. The epoxy anchors are only a solution for holes that have been drilled slightly too large - not for concrete that is too thin. If you haven't already, you should go on the Garage Journal forum, as they have tons of threads on Maxjax installations and solutions to the problems encountered. As well Gabe from Danmar regularly monitors the forum and will answer questions there. Doing the footings is easy but unfortunatley it's going to set you back about a month and a half or so from getting your car in the air, as you complete the labour and wait for the concrete to cure.

Good luck.

mjh1

I take back my last thread if the floor is only 3" thick, the A7 will not help you out, get the right footings or you're asking for trouble that will cost a lot of money or worst yet may kill someone down the road.

petee_c

Thx guys for the suggestions. Been looking at rental prices for a concrete saw now and going to call around for prices for 1/2 a yard of readymix. I've got a feeling that my floor probably isn't strong enough for the lift as is. Looks like the min charge for ready mix is going to run about $400ish. That would get me about 3'x3'x8-10" footing for each post

petee_c

2 sections cut out of my garage floor. each of them is 36" x42". Dug down about 13"

Great messy fun. concrete slurry splatters all over the place. Power washed the floor yesterday, and wiped down everything that got splattered. The cutting of the crete wasn't so bad, just there was a layer of slurry/water over everything, and when u hit a puddle with a sledge, it splashes pretty far.

A friend from church came over with his 12yr old son, and my 5 yr old also had a blast trying to break the concrete up

14" Husky Gas Concrete saw 4hr rental (I live 20 minutes from the rental place, so 2hrs would be cutting it close) - $65
435kg of concrete taken to the dump - $11
8lb sledge (which I need anyways - been borrowing the neighbors) - $45
36" wrecking bar - $20

1 yard of clean fill dumped behind the shed - free (used lawntractor and wagon, and my son helped with his motorized jeep and trailer) - we have very sandy soil here.

The 1st hole definitely had concrete that was on the thin side. Average was probaby about 4", but it wasn't very even, so there were spots that were approaching only 3".

The 2nd hole had much thicker concrete, probably close to 5", but my post location would have straddled a sawcut/control crack.

- Need to tamp down the holes, and order concrete.

pontifex4

Nice! How long until you have the concrete in?

petee_c

I hope to have it this week.... to order a small amount of readymix (1.25 cubic meters) is going to cost me about $500. Ordering 4000psi stuff, and might have fibre added to it. I probably could get away with 1 cu meter (35.3 cu feet), but I need at least 34 cu feet by my calculations to fill my holes. Don't want to push my luck.

You need to order it the day ahead. I can have it delivered at 5pm weekdays, and that would mean I wouldn't have to take much time off work to meet them and pour it.

I need to read up on what tools (trowels/floats I need to finish it,) as well as tamp/compact the same left in the hole.

Soon..., then 4 weeks before I drill new holes....

P

mjh1

Hopefully you measured twice? LOL
Good luck, looks like your off to a good start!

Turbodan

good work!
what is tamp down holes?

firesm

How are you planning on tying in the new concrete to the old? Ususal practice seems to be to drill laterally into the exsisting concrete and then epoxying in rebar.

petee_c

is a hand tamper. recompacting the disturbed base in my hole.

Steve,
unsure whether I am going to rebar my new footing to the existing slab.

The driver side area, the concrete is pretty thin around the edges of the hole. 3" or so. Not sure rebaring into 3" of concrete is going to add much strength.

It would cost about $30/ tube of epoxy and then rebar. I was thinking about using 10-12" pieces. half into the existing floor, half into the new footing....

I have dug out the hole beyond the cut out part so the new concrete will be locked in underneath the existing slab by about 6" all around.

This guy on garagejournal didn't rebar, and he has a similiar soil to mine, similiar climate.