Bearing replacement
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
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Just a cross post for the guys at todays get together .. I finally defeated the blasted bearing on the Audi ![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...n-porsche.html
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...n-porsche.html
#2
Drifting
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Hey Clive remember I mentioned a product called Loctite Freeze Release that Jim 7 introduced me to at one of the Saturday GTGs.
http://www.loctitefreezeandrelease.com/
When I purchased some from Brafasco (Markham store) the guy at the counter said that the product is slowly starting to catch on but not for removing rusted bolts but instead of removing and installing bearings. They use the Loctite Freeze Release to "slightly shrink" bearings so they can be removed or installed easier.
PS. The regular price is $17 but I bought 2 cans on sale at the Markham store (corner of Denison and Victoria Park) for $8 per can.
http://www.loctitefreezeandrelease.com/
When I purchased some from Brafasco (Markham store) the guy at the counter said that the product is slowly starting to catch on but not for removing rusted bolts but instead of removing and installing bearings. They use the Loctite Freeze Release to "slightly shrink" bearings so they can be removed or installed easier.
PS. The regular price is $17 but I bought 2 cans on sale at the Markham store (corner of Denison and Victoria Park) for $8 per can.
#4
Team Owner
Thread Starter
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Hey MArk
I can see in theory how it would work but you wouldhave to move fast as metal of course is one of the best conductors known for transfering heat therefore the surrounding housing would freeze and shrink also.
The press got her out allright , and I still would have needed it with any product.
I can see in theory how it would work but you wouldhave to move fast as metal of course is one of the best conductors known for transfering heat therefore the surrounding housing would freeze and shrink also.
The press got her out allright , and I still would have needed it with any product.
#5
Drifting
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I helped a buddy with his car last month and the product seems to work pretty well the bolts came off alot easier in a garage just slightly above freezing. The only thing I found is that you have to be a bit liberal (use a lot) when spraying down the bolt/nuts to get them good and cold. It does take some getting used to as it seems the bigger the area the more we used (I can't over state this fact)... you can run out pretty fast and in fact that is what happened (good thing they were on sale for $8 at Brafasco)... after that the fasteners that we didn't spray down seem to be alot harder to crack.
Jim had said to me when he showed me the product... use this first then if you're still stuck use a torch.
Hey MArk
I can see in theory how it would work but you wouldhave to move fast as metal of course is one of the best conductors known for transfering heat therefore the surrounding housing would freeze and shrink also.
The press got her out allright , and I still would have needed it with any product.
I can see in theory how it would work but you wouldhave to move fast as metal of course is one of the best conductors known for transfering heat therefore the surrounding housing would freeze and shrink also.
The press got her out allright , and I still would have needed it with any product.
Ya having a press is the only way to remove those bearings... I know where I'm heading when I need a press.
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#6
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
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Clive,
Nice work, and a good looking press you got there!
I have removed bearings like that without the use of a press but you need a nacetylane(sp?) torch to do it. Hammered out all the insides of the bearing, leaving only the outter race, then with a torch, very carefully, at a near paralel angle, cut the outter race. Because the bearing and the cast iron hub are two different metals, during the cutting (when the metal is melting) you can see where one ends and the other begins. This way you only cut the race and not the hub. Then I use the old outter race to hammer in the new bearing. However, there is always a sequence of how the bearing has to go back in to the hub, otherwise you can easily damage the new one.
Nice work, and a good looking press you got there!
I have removed bearings like that without the use of a press but you need a nacetylane(sp?) torch to do it. Hammered out all the insides of the bearing, leaving only the outter race, then with a torch, very carefully, at a near paralel angle, cut the outter race. Because the bearing and the cast iron hub are two different metals, during the cutting (when the metal is melting) you can see where one ends and the other begins. This way you only cut the race and not the hub. Then I use the old outter race to hammer in the new bearing. However, there is always a sequence of how the bearing has to go back in to the hub, otherwise you can easily damage the new one.
#7
Team Owner
Thread Starter
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Yeh Imre I htought of having it cut out . But buying a press sounded WAY cooler.
Now I just need a reason to by a mig welder...
Now I just need a reason to by a mig welder...