carrera

Wanting to build a two car garage. Ceiling height must accommodate a lift.
What ceiling height do I need, and any ideas as to where to source plans ?
Or perhaps there are some budding architects/designers here ?

Thanks

AM993

How about something like that:

http://justgarageplans.com/3613/plan-detail/12-009.php

carrera

Thanks kindly for the response. The issue with these and all the other such plans is the ceiling height.
Pretty sure I need at least a 10 foot ceiling for the hoist, and custom plans are quite costly.
Of course, money is no object, unless I have to spend it.

MY86Carrera

This is what I have ..... from the same site

http://justgarageplans.com/3633/plan-detail/12-029.php

door can be put almost anywhere and height is easy to adjust. Mine has 12' to ceiling

Brad

justinsrx7

Are you planning to build a separate out building on an existing property, adding an extension onto your current house or building a new home and planning for the garage?

Crazy Canuck

You'll need more than 10'. I have 12' and a few inches and I have a lift. If you can get 14' go for it.

Onami

Simple rule of thumb...the hieght of the two cars plus 10 inches (for beam and locking mechs). 10.5 ft will clear two sports cars in most cases.

Onami

Simple rule of thumb...the hieght of the two cars plus 10 inches (for beam and locking mechs). 10.5 ft will clear two sports cars in most cases. I should also mention that a jackshaft opener will allow you to have a lower ceiling height than a conventional opener.

carrera

Thanks for the input.
It will be a separate out building.
I will not be stacking cars. The hoist is just for maintenance.
It appears that I need a 12' ceiling.
Is there anything to consider pre construction ? Do I need a drain ?

gtihop

make sure any re bar put in the floor is not going to interfere with where the holes for the hoist have to be drilled. and you need at least 12' ceiling for a hoist.

Bob D..

my checklist:
-hoist - two post or four post? Good idea to pick the hoist because, in addition to headroom, there can be width coniderations - you might want to make the garage a couple of feet wider than normal. The hoist will interfere with a standard garage door install - not a big deal (the tracks just extend upwards further so that the door is a few inches from the ceiling. the door opener can also be an issue - I bought really solid garage doors and installed the openers at the outer edges to keep the ceiling space clear
-wall finish - are you going to insulate, then finish the inside? Drywall is pretty normal and cheap, but I used slotwall board as the interior finish - really handy stuff
-electrical - install abunch of circuits ( I have 12 in my garage), and wire a lot of the plugs with two circuits - like in a kitchen. Figure out where they are going to go so they can be roughed in durign construction. I have outlets beside each garage door, and one in the middle between them, all split receptacles, and I have used them a lot. Make sure you put a recptacle wherever you think the hoist power unit will sit
-workbench - at that end there should be at least 3 outlets. Also, a couple of extra feet in the length makes working a little easier.
-air - figure out where you might want air outlets, and put the piping in the walls - way neater than running it on the surface
-drains are tricky - you definitely don't want to risk miscueing during an oil change and dump oil into the sewer, but on the other hand it would be nice to have somewher for the floor washing and snow melt to go. Personally, I'd just have the floor sloped towards the doors. If your are near a sewer, and if you are near a water source, a connection for a clean-up sink is nice.
-lighting - if you are going with flourescents, buy the ones that work at low temeratures - I find that going into an unheated garage when the lights are barely working is depressing. it doesn't cost that much more. As an alternative to tube flourescents, regular bases for screw-in compact flourescents is worth considering.
heat - if you are going to insulate, and use it in the winter, look at installing a gas heater. electric is fien, but expensive to run, and it usually takes a while to get up to temp. a small furnace won't be free but will definitely be appreciated.
Floor - if you can, don't park on it for a month or so, to let it cure fully, then put down epoxy.The prep is pretty easy if the concrete is clean.

Of course, there is the loft to consider - fridge, 52" plasma, pool table, poker table, etc. etc.
have fun with your project

justinsrx7

Have you actually built all this Bob? Is fo, please post some pictures. If you have already done so, please post a link to that thread. This sounds like everyone's dream garage.

PG993

The height restricyio in Toronto area is about 14ft on the outside height. I would use the max allowable height. My neighbour built a brick 14 ft roof Garage and its perfect for a lift and then some. Its a bit of an ugly duckling on the outside but a real gem on the inside.

I have a 12 ft flat top, outside measurments, and its not enough to be practicle for a full lift. Thats why I had to get a scissors lift.

Paul

Bill 86.5 928s

I built one two years ago and there are a few things I would recommend. Yes, at least a twelve foot ceiling.Make sure your contractor pours a decent floor, as well a minimum of five inches thick to accommodate your lift. That being said choose your type of lift and manufacturer prior to building and build to their specs. Go with multiple doors. I built mine with one twelve foot door and kind of screwed myself of having a permanent mounted lift...what was I thinking....Do not rely on your contractor to keep your interests in mind. I did, and now it will cost me to repair a sub standard floor(uneven thickness). I now have to remove and redo a section of the floor to accommodate a four post lift...geeeez....I think you will like the garage, just choose a good contractor with lots of experience. Oh just one more thing. Elevate the walls on a concrete foundation. Build your wood frame at least two and a half to three feet above the floor just in case you use a grinder or wash your car inside. Good luck with the build ...........Bill

MY86Carrera

I agree with most of what Bob says BUT the air lines and electrical are better on the outside of the walls. It may not be as pretty but its easy to add on to. You can run one hard line from large compressor to say a reel hose near hoist and later run a second hard line if required...same for electrical. I like my pole barn out-building. Easy to build. I insulated the walls and used cement board (Its the stuff they put down for ceramic tile in a bathroom) on the bottom 2' with drywall on the other 10'. . That takes care of water issues.sealed to the floor and painted same as wall.......If you are not getting the hoist first and wish to install latter....remember the concrete pad can be cut and sono tubes can be poured as footing for the hoist.

Good luck, this is like suspension mods...............a very slippery slope.

Brad