https://www.honeyseal.ca/

 

It's really annoying that they make all kinds of effort to keep the sheet metal from rusting, but subframes and suspension components - they can't be bothered. I guess it would need the same sort of legistation as for car bodies. How much extra would it cost to make underbody components out of galvanised?

In the malaise era I used to use rustcheck. Wonder what happened to them

 

So I decided to go to a Krown place here in Montreal. Crown is the best option I could find in this side of the country. I don't have the facilities (or the time) do go the DIY route unfortunately. They told me they'd be drilling holes. I cringed, and told them to go ahead. Discrete holes with plugs don't bother me as much as a rust spot on the car. Montreal winters are BRUTAL! You get most of your sodium intake for the day just by breathing in during winter months. I'll report back once it's done. Fingers crossed.

 

Well Toronto does not see any real winters, so you should be OK. Where I live, we have real winter with lots of salt.

I've used Krown since 1990 and then in 2000, I started to apply Krown T40 myself where I would buy a 20L pail using my compressor & applicant gun on both daily drivers. One was sold at 16 years and the other was sold at 14 years. Both were 100% rust-free. The 14 year old vehicle is now over 23 years old with a friend. I do not drill holes and it is a messy job to apply and even worse when you do your own maintenance and repairs.

By the way, it is important to get into channels and inside panels that do not air out easily. That is where rust starts that you cannot see till the last moment

The Porsches get stored as they should.

 

Thanks to MSYKR, I did investigate HoneySeal. Jake has been very responsive in answering my questions. I too have an older 996 that has travelled over all kinds of roads so the undercarriage is very grimy. It hasn’t been driven in the winter.
i thought the price of approximately $2,000 (plus or minus 10%) to detail the undercarriage including the suspension with dry ice and then apply the wax was reasonable.
worthy of consideration.

 

To recap (I'm sure its been mentioned but I can't find it), how long is this treatment supposed to last?

The alternative is KROWN once per year at around 200$ correct?

 

Most of the HoneySeal cost is the dry ice detailing, the wax is a few hundred or so incremental cost. No idea about longevity, have not gone there yet. I might just go for the dry ice treatment but we shall see.
Would appreciate any cost info from others on dry ice detailing.

 

I should have mentioned that HoneySeal recommends that the wax be applied to protect against any kind of corrosion, winter driven or not.

 

Actually "Any Car Pricing" on their web site is listed at $149.95. They might still offer a CAA discount. I would not know as I apply it myself.

And you need to do it 3 or 4 years in a row and then you can do it every 2 years. This based on over 30 years of using the product and with one car that I am still in contact with coming up on 24 years old driven in real winters (like Montreal...I would know) with tons of salt. You want a product that flows.

 

IF anyone wants to see a video of my 2 year old ram after being done at honeyseal DM me your cell i'll send it. Looks exactly the same 2 years later

 

Is honey seal the closest thing you can get to the original Cosmaline that comes on classic cars ? ( not sure if it is still used.)

 

From my understanding yes, its extremely similar

 

Cosmoline is still available: https://www.cosmolinedirect.com/

Great company, by the way. Responsive to questions. I use cosmoline on the outer surfaces and a product like Fluid Film or Corrosion Free (I've used both) on the inner voids, such as rockers. For the past three new cars I have had, I have applied the cosmoline using a pneumatic sprayer immediately after picking up the car, when the underside is completely clean. Cosmoline will creep, but only until it sets up (a few hours typically), so it is important to be very methodical and thorough in the application, you can't rely on creep AS MUCH to get to areas you missed by a lot. I remove the bumper covers, fender liners etc. to provide complete access to everything, - a solid day's work. Probably a lot more work than most people want to do. I apply the product with a pneumatic sprayer and various extensions and wands.

As mentioned, all the inner voids get done with a more "wet" product. The inner voids are really important to do. The two biggest rust issues on most cars is rust through from the inside of the rockers and fenders, and subframe rust (as the subframes are usually not brilliantly painted!). The subframes are usually easy to get at, but the inner voids are sometimes overlooked.

I like the cosmoline on the outside as it is very durable and does not "wash off" appreciably, but I still do annual re-application.

Here is a good thread on cosmoline from a Toyota Tacoma forum: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/...oating.651180/

 

Glad to hear that!
Just a heads up for anyone going down this route, if you have PPF applied make sure to let them know ahead of time so they can be extra careful around the edges.
I have full front PPF and through dry ice blast/honeyseal application process some edges around my front bumper PPF lifted a bit.
No big deal, just had to trim around the edges so the film doesn't lift any further like a sticker and all seems well, but worth keeping in mind.