What to do? Porsche 996 is dead.
#16
Burning Brakes
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#17
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worth spinning off the 4 seat bolts and having a look, not just for water damage..also pull the front strut/cowl covers off
does it still crank or no crank now?
does it still crank or no crank now?
#18
Burning Brakes
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so, indie or dealer. I plan on calling hunter tomorrow as he is closest and have it towed. Or Mantis as I can get a ride easily as it is close to work.
I am concerned the indies cant program the alarm if I need a replacement.
anybody want a 996?
#19
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#20
Burning Brakes
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And lastly, for all of you younger than 50, be warned. When you get into your 50's (I'll be 55 this year), you will notice a drop in energy and drive. I wish somebody had warned me. I've been screaming at my coworkers that are older and didn't warn me about this. Used to be that I was go go go all the time, now I'm enjoying slowing down for the most part - want to simplify. Even at the cottage which we have had for 23 seasons, looking to simplify. Looking at the fishing boat and the bowrider and realizing that we hardly use the bowrider. I'm thinking get rid of both boats, and buy a 16 foot boat that we can use for fishing and a run into town.
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#21
Drifting
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Not necessarily.... it is only one of 7 possibilities, and the most expensive one at that....
You did number 6 on the flowchart...
I don't have a 996, but have a 986s, and the bentley manual for it..... I don't know where Todd got the troubleshooting guide from, but it is fairly straightforward. My bentley doesn't have this chart, but it makes sense.
1. E1 fuse. i assume it is good, because you said the rest of the car is good.... if the radio turns on, then i think it is good. Doesnt hurt to check.
2. see if you get close to 12v at pin 16 on plug A ; if you do, then replace alarm module.
if you get less than 11v, check wiring
Last edited by petee_c; 06-06-2023 at 01:27 AM. Reason: can't paste in a screenshot...standby
#22
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Also in Vaughan - EU Autowerks is good but very busy and hard to book
#23
Burning Brakes
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Zorotech installed the solution for me. Excellent service except the car was ready and he never called me. I called him a week later after drop off and he told me it was ready 3 days ago. EU autowerks did the ppi on my car.
I guess since I'm likely dealing with an ECU/Alarm that will have to be coded, should I just go to the dealer as I'm concerned the car is going to end up there eventually, especially since it doesn't run right now, I would need it towed 2x.
I guess since I'm likely dealing with an ECU/Alarm that will have to be coded, should I just go to the dealer as I'm concerned the car is going to end up there eventually, especially since it doesn't run right now, I would need it towed 2x.
#24
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did you try boosting it at the front or back? if at the front, try it at the back as well...wonder if the engine ground or positive power wire has an issue
also, have 2 keys? tried both in ignition?
also, have 2 keys? tried both in ignition?
No crank. Booster made no difference. Locks and remotes all work. Just no crank. I looked under seat. Just dusty.
so, indie or dealer. I plan on calling hunter tomorrow as he is closest and have it towed. Or Mantis as I can get a ride easily as it is close to work.
I am concerned the indies cant program the alarm if I need a replacement.
anybody want a 996?
so, indie or dealer. I plan on calling hunter tomorrow as he is closest and have it towed. Or Mantis as I can get a ride easily as it is close to work.
I am concerned the indies cant program the alarm if I need a replacement.
anybody want a 996?
#25
Racer
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The workflows I provided are from the factory service manuals.
I always get a chuckle when people say how hard modern cars are to work on. If you can read a wiring diagram, they basically tell you what is wrong. The only difference is you usually can't 'repair' the issue and the solution is to swap components. Guess that is why they are called 'technicians' these days and not mechanics.
-Todd
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#26
Racer
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This is what I posted over on the 996 board....
Error 25 simply means the alarm unit is not receiving a switched 12V from term 86S through fuse E1. If the fuse is good, check for power at E1 in the fuse board. If no power there with the ignition on, there is an issue with the switched power coming from the ignition. Either the wiring or the switch itself. If there is power to the fuse, pull connector A on the alarm unit and see if there is switched 12V on pin 16. If there is voltage there, the unit is getting 12V and is not powering up so the control unit is defective. If there is 12V at fuse E1 but not at the connector, you have a wiring issue between the fuse and the control unit. Since you already replaced the ignition switch, unless you screwed something up in that repair, you can rule that out. It is all outlined in the workflow I provided.
The other errors are just a result of the alarm unit not powering up.
-Todd
Error 25 simply means the alarm unit is not receiving a switched 12V from term 86S through fuse E1. If the fuse is good, check for power at E1 in the fuse board. If no power there with the ignition on, there is an issue with the switched power coming from the ignition. Either the wiring or the switch itself. If there is power to the fuse, pull connector A on the alarm unit and see if there is switched 12V on pin 16. If there is voltage there, the unit is getting 12V and is not powering up so the control unit is defective. If there is 12V at fuse E1 but not at the connector, you have a wiring issue between the fuse and the control unit. Since you already replaced the ignition switch, unless you screwed something up in that repair, you can rule that out. It is all outlined in the workflow I provided.
The other errors are just a result of the alarm unit not powering up.
-Todd
#27
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
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This is what I posted over on the 996 board....
Error 25 simply means the alarm unit is not receiving a switched 12V from term 86S through fuse E1. If the fuse is good, check for power at E1 in the fuse board. If no power there with the ignition on, there is an issue with the switched power coming from the ignition. Either the wiring or the switch itself. If there is power to the fuse, pull connector A on the alarm unit and see if there is switched 12V on pin 16. If there is voltage there, the unit is getting 12V and is not powering up so the control unit is defective. If there is 12V at fuse E1 but not at the connector, you have a wiring issue between the fuse and the control unit. Since you already replaced the ignition switch, unless you screwed something up in that repair, you can rule that out. It is all outlined in the workflow I provided.
The other errors are just a result of the alarm unit not powering up.
-Todd
Error 25 simply means the alarm unit is not receiving a switched 12V from term 86S through fuse E1. If the fuse is good, check for power at E1 in the fuse board. If no power there with the ignition on, there is an issue with the switched power coming from the ignition. Either the wiring or the switch itself. If there is power to the fuse, pull connector A on the alarm unit and see if there is switched 12V on pin 16. If there is voltage there, the unit is getting 12V and is not powering up so the control unit is defective. If there is 12V at fuse E1 but not at the connector, you have a wiring issue between the fuse and the control unit. Since you already replaced the ignition switch, unless you screwed something up in that repair, you can rule that out. It is all outlined in the workflow I provided.
The other errors are just a result of the alarm unit not powering up.
-Todd
#28
Burning Brakes
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probably just a fried battery