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replace. - do the math. rotor cost divided by current # of days = cost per day. balance the cost of squeezing one more day against the damage to car or your body if you wreck due to failure. why fool about ? its a safety thing. never run motorsports gear to the very life.
I've always gone by the book, and have never had a problem. The cracks must connect the holes or extend to the outer or inner margins. These don't meet those criteria. I'd change them out if I were going to a long event or to a brake intensive track rather than change them at the track. I also don't use cross drilled rotors anymore. I'm using my first set of Girodiscs and really like them.
I've always gone by the book, and have never had a problem. The cracks must connect the holes or extend to the outer or inner margins. These don't meet those criteria. I'd change them out if I were going to a long event or to a brake intensive track rather than change them at the track. I also don't use cross drilled rotors anymore. I'm using my first set of Girodiscs and really like them.
Experiences will vary. I had drilled rotors fail once even though the holes were not connected at the previous inspection - ugly! Agreed that slotted rotors are the way to go.
other than giro disc rotors which are great by the way, what other rotors are out there for track spec caymans? on my last set of giro's i got 22-25 days out of them.
but my current car came with new stock rotors and im gonna burn them up then decide what to do.
stock rotors are way cheaper but well see how long they last. using pagid r29s all around.
Just had a Centric slotted rotor crack on me at Blackhawk Farms (I run an e36 m3) - see attached pic. When I started my day there was small checking; after 4x 25 min sessions I had a significant crack. Fortunately at the end of the day, but would have been a downer if I had to shut down earlier. Replacing with OEM blanks.
other than giro disc rotors which are great by the way, what other rotors are out there for track spec caymans? on my last set of giro's i got 22-25 days out of them.
but my current car came with new stock rotors and im gonna burn them up then decide what to do.
stock rotors are way cheaper but well see how long they last. using pagid r29s all around.
I use OEM slotted rotors but have a track prepped 996tt - they last forever with Rs29 or RS14 - i had giro discs and didn't notice a difference so went back to OEM (ebro actually)
I've always gone by the book, and have never had a problem. The cracks must connect the holes or extend to the outer or inner margins. These don't meet those criteria. I'd change them out if I were going to a long event or to a brake intensive track rather than change them at the track. I also don't use cross drilled rotors anymore. I'm using my first set of Girodiscs and really like them.
Agreed - the original pics look fine for some number of more days' DE based on the factory recommendations (and my experience). All things equal, if that was 10 days of DE, then there's probably 2 more weekends of use subject to inspection.
Originally Posted by GSM
Just had a Centric slotted rotor crack on me at Blackhawk Farms (I run an e36 m3) - see attached pic. When I started my day there was small checking; after 4x 25 min sessions I had a significant crack. Fortunately at the end of the day, but would have been a downer if I had to shut down earlier. Replacing with OEM blanks.
That's scary. Based on the wear otherwise apparent, this was a defect/abnormal failure.
Originally Posted by Jferrante
I use OEM slotted rotors but have a track prepped 996tt - they last forever with Rs29 or RS14 - i had giro discs and didn't notice a difference so went back to OEM (ebro actually)
Yeah, I'm running Sebro slotted too (Cayenne 350mm slotted). So far so good, and low $$ for a such a consumable so you don't feel too bad chucking them when badly cracked vs. worn down.
replace. - do the math. rotor cost divided by current # of days = cost per day. balance the cost of squeezing one more day against the damage to car or your body if you wreck due to failure. why fool about ? its a safety thing. never run motorsports gear to the very life.
That's scary. Based on the wear otherwise apparent, this was a defect/abnormal failure
Fortunately it did not end in a scare for me, but I offer it as an example to the OP - rotors can heat cycle out. When I started my day I could not catch a fingernail on any of the small checks, none of which extended to the rotor edge. Was an interesting learning for me - and this sport has no end of interesting lessons!
Pads brand and model can have a profound affect on rotor wear too.
Some pads wear rotors very gently while others are very aggressive.
This is not in direct proportion to how aggressive or how well the pads hold up either. And, what works for one person or on one particular car does not typically work on another application the same.
Thanks
Ed
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Engineered Race and Track Products for your Porsche
Pads brand and model can have a profound affect on rotor wear too.
Some pads wear rotors very gently while others are very aggressive.
This is not in direct proportion to how aggressive or how well the pads hold up either. And, what works for one person or on one particular car does not typically work on another application the same.
Thanks
Ed
I run front pagid rs 14/ black on gt3 calipers in my cayman S gtb1
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Jeff Ritter
Mgr. High Performance Division, Essex Parts Services Essex Designed AP Racing Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kits & 2-piece J Hook Discs Ferodo Racing Brake Pads Spiegler Stainless Steel Brake Lines
704-824-6030 jeff.ritter@essexparts.com
replace. - do the math. rotor cost divided by current # of days = cost per day. balance the cost of squeezing one more day against the damage to car or your body if you wreck due to failure. why fool about ? its a safety thing. never run motorsports gear to the very life.
Totally agree Steve. If anything it makes me feel better to change things like pads/rotors/tires earlier than later. All you need is ONE failure.
06-28-2017, 10:36 PM
