jlanka

I just had a FAST cooling system installed and tried out the shirt yesterday at Lime Rock (it was HOT and humid). The first time I tried it, when I felt the coolness suddenly come into the tubes it was AWESOME! Felt like I just jumped into a pool, made me very happy.

But later sessions it would come in waves, I would get a burst of cool and then nothing for like 5 or 10 minutes, then another burst of cool.

I can't imagine this is normal for a brand new system? Was I doing something wrong? Any other thoughts/insight?

Thanks in advance

Jeff

JarheadGT3

Do you have an on/off switch, or the dial? If the latter, you may need to dial up your cooling level (e.g., shorten the amount of time between pump cycles). Not trying to insult anyone's intelligence by any means, but the lower you have the dial setting, the greater time between pump cycles. When it's really hot out, I crank 'er as high as it'll go.

400hp944

I have a similar issue with my CoolShirt system. I think it's in the plug-in hose connectors. The pressure side hose gets cold, but the return line hose is not. If I wiggle the connectors in and out it will start pumping normal. Sometimes it at the cooler side and sometimes its at the shirt connection. It sucks when you're strapped in the car and turn it on only to find you aren't getting water flow. If the messing with the connection at the shirt doesn't do it then I have to un-strap and reach over to wiggle the line at the cooler. Would like to know WTF?

jlanka

re: Dial setting, I had it cranked all the way up.

re: Wiggling the hose connectors, I'll try that next. I was thinking of playing with the entire system out of the car to see what the characteristics were in terms of the pump cycles, etc.

Thanks for the tips.

Jeff

400hp944

That's what I keep meaning to do but then forget about it until I leave for the track... I just pulled it out of the car to take home and test just now. Thanks for the reminder!

serickson

Assuming you had added enough water to the ice. I had a similar issue on a relatively new unit not the same brand. It turned out to be a bad pump; impellers were not able to spin freely. Replaced pump and no issues since. Good luck.

Steve

Tom W

I got rid of the dial long ago and use a simple switch. Make sure your lines are not plugged or kinked. A kinked line will halt the flow. When my original pump died, I replaced it with a new bilge pump that pumped at twice the volume. Much nicer.

rlm328

When you say cranked all the way up, was it turned as far as it could go or just past the click?

gobuffs

Type of ice can make a difference. Chips of ice can gather an block the intake on the pump. BTDT.

jlanka

I was already thinking about doing this and getting a marine grade pump.

jlanka

All the way up.

jrgordonsenior

Also wet the connectors (yes I stick them in my mouth) and then twist them back--n-forth to make sure they're well connected.

The amount of water is an art form ot wild add guess. Not enough and it won't flow until more ice melts usually about halfway thru a race, too much and it melts the ice way too quickly. I wish here was block ice available trackside instead of he usual cubes....

surlynkid

You have drilled the hole in the pump discharge per Jeremy at CoolShirt, correct? The pump will start and then lose prime mid session. The correction is the hole. Linda from Apex posted info about it on RL.

Bull_D

anybody know what the OEM pump output is? as a side, i use a MOMO shirt. it uses a bladder system as opposed to the plastic tubing. i think it provides a lot more heat removal. .02

linzman

Different systems use different pumps, and they have switched pumps depending on when it was manufactured. Look at the pump and then search Amazon. I think most are in the 4-500 GPH range.

As an aside, I like the fact that my shirt is FIA rated fire resistant, I don't believe MOMO is. And it cools enough. Just have to remember to make ice blocks at home before I go, they last longer than cubes. And I can't wait to try out the head cooling this coming weekend.