E36 M3 vs 986 Boxster S for DE
#46
I like the oil sensor locations in the cap. Puts the Oil T in actual flow. I think Ireland Engineering used to make one with two NPT ports? Some only have one which is silly.
I use the Rally Road mount I think I sit low enough that I can always see both gauges, and no part of my tach or speedo is obscured. 350mm OMP wheel.
I use the Rally Road mount I think I sit low enough that I can always see both gauges, and no part of my tach or speedo is obscured. 350mm OMP wheel.
-Mike
#47
I would make sure you have a helper to put the oil pan back in. While it is possible to do it solo, it is a major pain to line everything up. While the pan is light, it gets heavy when holding up above your head for a while as you try and get some of the bolts in. There are things to navigate like the dipstick tube and steering rack that can partially block you from getting the pan in place; an extra hand to move them out of the way is helpful.
If you have never safety wired before, I strongly urge you to buy extra safety wire. The position of the holes in the nut was very close to the chainring arm, so it was actually a bit tricky to get the right number of twists correctly done. I had to start over two times; the bimmerworld nut kit only gives you enough for one job.
I would also change the motor mounts while doing it since it is right there and super easy to do. Invest in the ball joint extractor for the control arms if you plan on removing them.
Also, make sure you have a torque wrench for 10 and 12NM. Those oil pan nuts supposedly break very easily. I ended up using a torque wrench I use for working on bicycles.
Check what type of subframe bolts you have too! Mine were unlabeled; Bentley has 3 different torque specs for those bolts and there is no way to tell from the Real OEM website. The range is pretty wide too; 57ft lbs up to 81ft lbs.
I would also say that while things are well documented on the web and via videos, there is almost always something missing! There is a great control arm replacement video from Bav Auto; they only do the passenger side. Why? Well to do the driver side requires a lot more work because the power steering system is in the way of accessing the bolts.
#48
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thanks for input. Please keep it coming. Miata is definitely out. I reflexively yawn every time I look at one. I know nothing about car maintaince, but am looking to learn. Whichever car I buy will be the first car I change my own oil in..... I've driven both on short test drives in cities, but it's hard to really tell the difference in character between the two. None of the sellers I met yet have really welcomes a long test drive on twisties to wring out the engine. Hence why I'm looking to learn from other's experience.
#49
Burning Brakes
I have done DEs with both Porsches and BMWs. Over the years, the BMWs have cost less to play with, mod, tires, brakes, ect. I spend $200 for a set of 18 inch Conti slicks for the weekend, where as on my 911 Turbo, I could not get any 19 inch scuffs and could only buy new. $1600/set lasted me 5 track days... Ugg. LOL
I do have a good buddy selling his VERY nice E36 M3 with all the right track mods. He's asking $9500. 3 owner and ready to go. Message me if interested. Car is located in central FL.
I prefer the E46 M3 but the E36 M3 with the right mods is an absolute blast on the track and I have seen some of then with a 2600-2800b wet weight with ease. You can use 17 inch Conti slick scuffs for mean pennies on the dollar and of course, a hardtop of=ver a ragtop ANY day on the track.
My BMW track toy:
She's quick. She is sub 39s at RA and Sub 18s at Roebling Road. First trip to VIR full with her I was in the 09s. Since, we just did long tube headers and a retune and added almost 30 rwhp and adjusted the rear wing a little to give us a hair more top end on the high speed tracks. Oh, and she is tagged for the street! ;-)
I do have plenty of in car video if you wanted to see. Going against all the fun cars, GT#s, Vipers, Vettes, Lambos, ect.
I do have a good buddy selling his VERY nice E36 M3 with all the right track mods. He's asking $9500. 3 owner and ready to go. Message me if interested. Car is located in central FL.
I prefer the E46 M3 but the E36 M3 with the right mods is an absolute blast on the track and I have seen some of then with a 2600-2800b wet weight with ease. You can use 17 inch Conti slick scuffs for mean pennies on the dollar and of course, a hardtop of=ver a ragtop ANY day on the track.
My BMW track toy:
She's quick. She is sub 39s at RA and Sub 18s at Roebling Road. First trip to VIR full with her I was in the 09s. Since, we just did long tube headers and a retune and added almost 30 rwhp and adjusted the rear wing a little to give us a hair more top end on the high speed tracks. Oh, and she is tagged for the street! ;-)
I do have plenty of in car video if you wanted to see. Going against all the fun cars, GT#s, Vipers, Vettes, Lambos, ect.
#50
Rennlist Member
Lots of prep done to my M3 yesterday. Got my seats and harnesess in the and bled the brakes. Got the NASA annual tech done and my race wheels/tires mounted.
Car is basically ready for the event next weekend. After that event I need to get some hail damage fixed and since the headliner is coming out for that I'll get that redone since its sagging. Then my race numbers go on the car and I'll refresh the cooling system and replace the starter.
Car is basically ready for the event next weekend. After that event I need to get some hail damage fixed and since the headliner is coming out for that I'll get that redone since its sagging. Then my race numbers go on the car and I'll refresh the cooling system and replace the starter.
#51
Rennlist Member
#55
#56
Perhaps a bit over the top, but I paid my dues living over 30 years where it snows, with 10 of those years living in a place with more snow than Buffalo, NY. True story, I'm not much of a believer in mind tricks, but if I ever get the urge to bitch about the heat and humidity in TX I just tell myself "I'm not shoveling snow" and I'm good.
If it is a consolation, forecast for TWS today is 90% chance of thunderstorms.
WRT to the wallet, July-August is our "off season" even though there are a few events for the die hards. I was at a July DE at TWS where the air temp was 108F (no exaggeration) and the humidity was 150% (ok, exaggeration here, but you get my point).
-Mike
If it is a consolation, forecast for TWS today is 90% chance of thunderstorms.
WRT to the wallet, July-August is our "off season" even though there are a few events for the die hards. I was at a July DE at TWS where the air temp was 108F (no exaggeration) and the humidity was 150% (ok, exaggeration here, but you get my point).
-Mike
#57
Rennlist Member
I am the opposite, the winter months is when my mind wonders and all of my time is spent wrenching. That means suspension, flares, wheels, maintenance , lightweight parts, etc when the car was more than I can handle to begin with! damn this hobby is expensive.
#58
#59
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
For me at least, I take off the summers because of the heat, and pick things back up in the fall. This weekend will probably be my last for a few months.
#60
Rennlist Member
Car has another 8-10" of snow on it that fell overnight. Ran the snowblower yesterday and today. Still some snow showers rolling through.
It may be a few days before I can get the car off the trailer. The roads are just wet where they've been cleaned but right behind my trailer is a solid 12". Something tells me Nitto NT01's aren't a good tire to try to bulldoze through that...
I miss living in San Diego...
It may be a few days before I can get the car off the trailer. The roads are just wet where they've been cleaned but right behind my trailer is a solid 12". Something tells me Nitto NT01's aren't a good tire to try to bulldoze through that...
I miss living in San Diego...