fourniem76

Good day everyone,

I have a problem getting proper operation of the kill switch I installed on my'race car. As I am still running the alternator, I have purchased the OMP 6 pole kill switch...especially designed for alternator race cars. The poles on the switch are:

- 2 big ones for the main ground wire coming form the battery on one side and going to the frame on the other side.
- 2 poles identified NC ( closed) which means the circuit is connected when the key is in the off position
-2 poles identified NO(open) which function like the main poles...ie: circuit open when key is in "off" position...and circuit closed when key is in "on" position

I run my ground wire through the main kill switch connectors, and the alternator regulator wire through the NO poles. With this setup, I understand that when I move the key to the "off" position, it should kill all electrical circuits and stop the motor.

The problem I have is that it does not work. if I start the car with the regulator wire connected, moving the key to the "off"position does not stop the car... and if I start the car with the regulator wire not connected, then the kill switch does its job of killing the car when the key is moved to "off" ...but it defeats the purpose of keeping the alternator...as I understand it is not charging at that point...


any ideas ?? have i misunderstood how it is supposed to be connected ??


Thx...

Bill L Seifert

Not really, I hate those darn things. The one I use is made by Longacre, and I have never gotten it to work correctly. Fortunately for me the stupid thing quit working right after my last race, so I am dumping it. I am going to go the original type I used 7 or so years ago. That one broke when I wrecked the car, so I replaced it with the Longacre one, and had nothing but trouble since. I am buying one from Racer Parts Wholesale in Indy, It costs $39.99 and is part number RPW28606. It has protecting diodes, and it is like the one I had before, so I am hoping it is as easy to hook up as I remember.

Good luck,

Bill Seifert
944 Race Car

Jeff Curtis

Guys, just went through all of this...and the six-pole switches are the ticket for our DME managed P-Cars!

the four terminals on the underside of the switch work similar to the two larger ones, the ones used for your battery cables.

Your instructions should indicate that you put the resister on the neg. side of the four terminal connector and either run your ignition coil hot lead or your fuel pump 12v through two of the other spades, one side to the ground side, the terminal that's left over after connecting your resister and the hot side.

You should've received a resister with your six-pole switch, and a small, crappy set of instructions. These instructions assume that the installer knows something about electronics!

Thank GOD that's what I do for a living.

Don't knock the six-pole switch, it is your friend.

Bill L Seifert

Jeff

I am not sure that I understand. All I know about electronics is that if you touch the wrong thing, it will curl your hair. The two types of switches are the one made by Longacre, or Reb-co. They have two big leads for the battery hot wire, and two other conectors. Mine came with no instructions or anything else. I have had two of the short out, and quit working.

The other kind has the two big leads, but on the bottom it has four connectors that take electrical connectors that are flat. These are sold through Racer Parts Wholesale in Indy, or Racer Wholesale in Hotlanta. This kind is pretty easy to install, but all the big racers say the other type is best. But I keep breaking the darn things.

Which of these two (Assuming you can understand my gibberish) works the best. I was just getting ready to order the second kind, util I read your reply, now I am not sure.


Thanks

Bill

Jeff Curtis

I have the second one you describe...with the four spade terminals on the "belly" and the two BIG terminals.

The only problem I had with my first one is that I was trying to rig up something temporary and the post now rotates within the plastic housing...my fault.

I installed the 2nd one, and properly, without rigging - you would have to see what I wanted to do in order to understand.

Good luck with them, if I can help w/pictures, etc. PLEASE let me know!

OZ951

Here is a link to one of my pages which has a wiring diagram for the kill switch and a pic of the switch mounted in a 951. The switch is designed to interrupt the alternator field wire first and then disconnect the main battery cable. That saves the alternator from getting fried as the switch is operated.

Mods page - kill switch wiring - the pics are nearthe bottom of the page.

BrandonH

Anybody used one of the circuit-breaker-style switches sold by Taylor Motorsports? Very expensive relative to a mechanical switch, but they claim 100% fail safe, and used by F1 and Prototypes. Instead of a cable and a mechanical toggle, you use a remote momentary switch. Looks really slick. http://www.taylorautosport.com/frames2.htm click on electrical.
Brandon

fourniem76

well... thank's to everyone for the answers...


I was hoping to keep the main circuit of the switch on the negative terminal, but it looks like it is not possible... I will rewire like you diagram OZ951...


Thks again..

Bill L Seifert

Boy, this is confusing. I hooked mine up by the diagram and the engine still ran when I turned the switch off. I called Racer Parts Wholesale, and they said they would send a wiring diagram, but the one they sent was for the Longacre type that has a wire running to the Alternator. Mine is the six point type. The main battery cable is cut and put on the big lugs of the switch. Under the switch are 4 blades. One goes to the battery cable. One goes to the ignition switch, one goes to the ignition coil, and one goes through a 3 ohm resistor to ground. The blades have a one and a two between them. The switch looks like the diagram except that the blades on the switch are horizontal, and the ones on the diagram are vertical. It is such a crappy diagram, I am sure the drawing is a mistake, except the dang thing does not work. The diagram in the thread above for the 951 is for the other kind of switch, so it won't work on mine. If anyone knows how to hook up the one with two battery leads and four blades, please tell me.

Bill Gregory

There was a wiring diagram originally in Pano, reprinted in UpFixin', which I posted in this forum awhile ago. If it's disappeared, send me a note and I can repost it.

Bill L Seifert

To Bill Gregory,

I can't find it, you, or anyone else for that matter, can email me directly at BillLSeifert@aolcom. I would appreciate your help.

Bill Seifert

1983 944 Race Car