johnfm

STeve at Grillsports

apart from reducing weight, I am thinking of some power enhancements.

Can I stick with stock compression if I use a low boost S/C, or will I need to pull down the burners??
I know I will need to provide for gas 'on boost' when I'm really grilling on full - will I need bigger capacity nozzles?? Would a piggyback chip control all this or would I need MOTEC ??

Greg Fishman

Well my grilling days are numbered now.... I made the mistake of asking my wife if she wanted to try out my new grill or maybe go to a BE or two with me. She is totally hooked and I think I am relegated to washing dishes from now on. She is fast, really fast.

Flying Finn

I heard Emeril will be instructing at your next BE...

Grillman GT3

I had Emeril for an instructor at one of my first BE events. He's a great teacher, but I could do with out all the "BAMS" I mean it was "BAM" this, "BAM" that, BAM BAM BAM BAM

Carrera51

Sounds like Greg's wife will be posting FBDs (Fastest Burger of the Day) at his local BE's

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi John:

IMHO, you should plan on pulling the burners down if you use forced-convection. The Charring Effect is something to avoided at all costs, unless you have invited a gaggle of Cajuns to the BE.

To maintain reasonable duty cycles on the injectors, they should be upgraded to higher capacity ones or a second, staged set (on-boost) installed and operated during periods of high demand. A MoTec or DTA GMS* works just fine under such circumstances as we've programmed a few...

Currently, the only chips I use are: mesquite, hickory, alder, & apple.

* Grille Management System

bystander

I think all this discussion about mods are fun and great.

But let's not forget there are a lot of people that don't know the basics of grilling. I don't know about you but I've experienced (one too many times) a newbie thinking he's all that, because he's got a high end grill with lots of mods. Then he attends a BE and sure enough as soon as he fires up his grill and then makes a basic mistake causing damage to either himself or some poor unlucky bastard. Ruining the whole BE for all.

All I'm saying is BEs aren't safe, its a dangerous environment especially with all the BTUs people have these days.

Its all fun and games until something gets burnt! Beef is what's for dinner....

johnfm

Steve

we all know more power=more heat. Will I need to get an auxilliary beer cooler??

I know Bert at Carnivore.de does the turbo S, but will this keep the beer cool enough?? I was thinking of running a piggy back beer cooler in parallel with the stock one, and installing the high speed fan overide switch.

Also, should I stick with the fully synth beers with these mods??

PS

John D, can we have a burger flipping smilie for these threads??

Adrian

Dear John,
I know you are quite wealthy. I suggest you pop over and I will take you up to see Alois RUF. In October Alois will release the RGT-3 and the RGT-3RS barbies. Now these are worth waiting for. These are what you call super grillers. They are extremely lightweight and powerful. Now the top of the line unit may well be the RGT-2RS. This may come out a little later but this has a high powered high speed auxilliary beer cooler.
I warn you though they cost more than standard but a RUF barbie in your backyard would be super kool. With the RGT-2RS you can have mineral or synthetic beer. Unfortunately with the RGT-3 models you are stuck with synthetic where cooling requirements are less.
Ciao,
Adrian
964C4

Jonathan Martini

If you are really in need of a high powered beer cooler and looking for some extra BTU's at the same time, you might consider a jet powered beer cooler. Those crazy kiwi's really know how to chill their beer.

Check it out: Jet Powered Auxiliary Beer Cooler

Cheers!

911pcars

Adding power is relatively easy; just upgrade to bigger burners to up the BTU rating. However, losing weight beyond removing unneeded accessories is always a challenge, but which provides increased returns in accelerated cooking as well as road carving. In this regard, it's many times cheaper to, instead of substituting with titanium cookery or other exotic materials, to reduce the pork content. A loss of 20 lbs or more past the grillwork is good for the gut and better all around (nothing personal mind you, just a general statement). That is, if you've got the briquets to do it.

Regards,
Sherwood Lee
http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

IMHO,.............Jonathan's pic looks like the High-powered Beer Cooler concept is under control.

Some fine-tuning to optimize the "beer response" times might be needed by swapping compressor wheels and turbine housings.

For heaven's sake, nobody likes waiting for such things to happen,........

cstreit

Sure there is no substitute for lighter weight and more grilling power, but with all that maneuverability and speed, have you thought about brakes?

Unlike the rather simplistic systems on cars where you simply must stop the four wheels, a high end GT-BBQ has much more sophisticated requirements. Note:

1. Yes, you must be able to stop the wheels as in a car, but with the added heat from the twin-turbo oxygen injected burners you simply must compensate for the additional heat.

2. What about the rotisserie? No one EVER thinks about the rotisserie untill it's too damn late! Here you are grilling along, putting out enough heat to flash fry a buffalo in 15 seconds while it rotates at breakneck speeds on the rotisserie and then you realize, how the hell do I slow this thing down? More importantly, how do I slow it down and reduce the CMFF ratio. (Cooked Meat Fat Flinging ratio).

I would consider this carefully!

You might also think about a modified turbo-timer setup. With all that heat, the oil from cooking can coke up in the burners and turbo if you don't let them spin down/cool off slowly.

911pcars

Chris,
If one contemplates rotisserie cooking, then I must suggest a basting sauce made of sugar, soy sauce, garlic, lemon juice, "cayenne" (Porsche content) pepper and synthetic oil. However, this will produce a very long thread about the possible choices which include Mobil One, Purple whatever, Amsoil, Castrol Syntec, etc.

BTW, the CMFF ratio (Cooked Meat Fat Flinging ratio) varies depending on the RRL (Rotisserie Red Line) and the viscosity of the basting sauce. In this regard, Mobil One is preferred over Castrol Syntec at elevated cooking temps.

Sherwood

cstreit

I personally prefer to use a natural oil for initial roast break-in, then switch to a synthetic.