Seeking opinions on Tow Vehicle
#31
Racer
need something like this.... prob get pretty cheap
7.3 motor
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390839652490...84.m1426.l2649
7.3 motor
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390839652490...84.m1426.l2649
#33
Drifting
get a used Ford Dually for the win. These run for 350k miles. Have owned 4 of them. Awesome towing, no need to figure out weight. Then you can keep upgrading to bigger trailer without changing truck - all the way to enclosed two-car trailer.
#34
Rennlist Member
I'm going to make a different suggestion. Given that you haven't yet picked your track car yet, plus it looks like you aren't planning on a heavy tow schedule, you might want to consider going full rental.
No affiliation here..... http://www.toyota.com/rental/
Last month we had to take 2 trailers to the race at NOLA, so rented a full size Tundra with tow package. I believe it was about $350 for 4 days and almost 2k miles. Add a Uhaul open trailer at $55/day and you could do a typical 3 day weekend for about $300-$400.
That would allow you to figure out what you really want in a trailer/tow vehicle without making a big $ commitment up front. If you tow only 5-6 times a year you could save yourself significant money including vehicle/trailer purchase, maintenance, insurance, etc. plus the hassle of parking and maintaining all of that.
No affiliation here..... http://www.toyota.com/rental/
Last month we had to take 2 trailers to the race at NOLA, so rented a full size Tundra with tow package. I believe it was about $350 for 4 days and almost 2k miles. Add a Uhaul open trailer at $55/day and you could do a typical 3 day weekend for about $300-$400.
That would allow you to figure out what you really want in a trailer/tow vehicle without making a big $ commitment up front. If you tow only 5-6 times a year you could save yourself significant money including vehicle/trailer purchase, maintenance, insurance, etc. plus the hassle of parking and maintaining all of that.
#35
Burning Brakes
If you want to get a used Powerstroke then look for a 2002 or 2003 7.3. If you go 6.0 then you need to go for an 06-07 and make sure they have had the EGR replaced with a Bulletproof model or a complete delete.
If you get a 6.4 then watch out for the OE water pump and radiator and make sure the EGR is deleted. I'd make sure they have been replaced already with better upgraded units.
The 6.7s are still in testing as far as I'm concerned and they get crap milage.
If you look for a used Duramax then go LBZ model which is a 2006 or 2007 Classic.
In the Dodge, go for a late 03 to early 04. The 305/555 motor is a monster and the 48RE tranny is strong stock and with a little mods, will handle anything you throw at it.
I've owned them all and have 1st hand experience with them in all towing situations.
If you are going to tow 7K or less then my 2010 BMW X5 35d can do that AND get 14+mpg while towing and up to 26 on the hwy unloaded. That is a great unit!!!
#36
Burning Brakes
#37
Burning Brakes
We used this to tow the horse trailer (up to 6K loaded) and to pull a buddies 20ft enclosed Pace. No issues and 14.5mpg towing. Awesome setup but we had to go to a gooseneck horse trailer so I had to get a bigger pickup so the X5 needs a good home. I have it listed in the members for sale forum.
What I replaced it with for the bigger trailer:
This was her first big tow. 17,300lbs gross weight and 13mpg at 72mph on the hwy. That is a late 2003 2500.
Our little track beast:
What I replaced it with for the bigger trailer:
This was her first big tow. 17,300lbs gross weight and 13mpg at 72mph on the hwy. That is a late 2003 2500.
Our little track beast:
#38
Finally got this setup together. Even with a surge trailer, it tows surprisingly well. I didn't realize the X5 (even the M) is rated at 7700lb in europe, but only 6K in the US. No matter, this is only about 4500 loaded up.
#39
Since the OP has an MDX heres something to allay some of those fears about overloading.
I know we have different generations but I would bet the chassis is more or less the same.
A friend let me borrow his trailex EB 7541 and my RS. Used my MDX to tow about 350 miles from home to track with lots of hills and while it's probably not as easy to tow as a full size pick up it worked fine for my needs. Spent a week at the glen and hauled the whole family up there with me.
Also I averaged about 13 mpg traveling 65 mph most of the way.
I know we have different generations but I would bet the chassis is more or less the same.
A friend let me borrow his trailex EB 7541 and my RS. Used my MDX to tow about 350 miles from home to track with lots of hills and while it's probably not as easy to tow as a full size pick up it worked fine for my needs. Spent a week at the glen and hauled the whole family up there with me.
Also I averaged about 13 mpg traveling 65 mph most of the way.
#41
What's the tongue weight for your setup? I have the same trailer and same car but I have the car a lot closer to the back of the trailer. I havent actually checked tongue wt but it compresses the suv suspension about an inch and it tows good.
#42
The X5M has air suspension in the rear that will level the trailer, but I still don't have the tongue height high enough (It's a 19 - top of ball, when it should be at 21" according to Trailex). I have another ball mount that is 2" higher.
#43
That position is based on my calculations of the right position, but there are a lot of variables that I could not take into account (like the trailer's CG). I was aiming for around 500lbs with a set of track wheels and a full tank of gas. Being a bit paranoid, I ordered a tongue weight scale, but I have not had a chance to try it on a loaded trailer. Will be doing that when I pack up for TWS this weekend. From everything I have read, more tongue weight is better...to a point. The X5M has air suspension in the rear that will level the trailer, but I still don't have the tongue height high enough (It's a 19 - top of ball, when it should be at 21" according to Trailex). I have another ball mount that is 2" higher.
#44
That position is based on my calculations of the right position, but there are a lot of variables that I could not take into account (like the trailer's CG). I was aiming for around 500lbs with a set of track wheels and a full tank of gas. Being a bit paranoid, I ordered a tongue weight scale, but I have not had a chance to try it on a loaded trailer. Will be doing that when I pack up for TWS this weekend. From everything I have read, more tongue weight is better...to a point.
The X5M has air suspension in the rear that will level the trailer, but I still don't have the tongue height high enough (It's a 19 - top of ball, when it should be at 21" according to Trailex). I have another ball mount that is 2" higher.
The X5M has air suspension in the rear that will level the trailer, but I still don't have the tongue height high enough (It's a 19 - top of ball, when it should be at 21" according to Trailex). I have another ball mount that is 2" higher.
Last edited by mpaton; 06-03-2014 at 06:40 PM. Reason: typos
#45
Well, if you go by general recommendations for tongue weight with a dual-axle setup, it should be 9-15%. So with a 910lb trailer, and 3500lbs of stuff (car and tires), that means the tongue weight should be 400-650lbs.
Update - I just talked to Carl at Trailex and he said should be 9% minimum, somewhere between 9 and 13%.
Update - I just talked to Carl at Trailex and he said should be 9% minimum, somewhere between 9 and 13%.