Cogito_Ergo_Zoom

One of things I've been going back and forth on is what to do with the old motor that we removed from the car and replaced with the reman motor. I gave my mechanic some feedback via Guy Incognito of what happened when the old one let go (sudden loss of oil pressure, metal fragments on drain plug, knock sensor warning on cylinder #1), and this is what he came back with:
He's offered to buy the motor as is for $1,000 so there might be a slight conflict of interest here, but I'd like to get some advice from you guys if this is a path worth going down. Anyone been here before? What's a fair price if I decide to sell him the core as is? Thanks

IcemanG17

the really hard part of rebuilding a "failed" motor is how all those tiny bits of metal get EVERYWHERE....every single nook and cranny in the oil passages....in the lifters, oilpump, oil cooler everywhere....just about impossible to get all of them out....

Chances are the crank is scored and possibly ruined.....the rods might be damaged as well....so many variables....I can't speak to what a good used M96 is worth currently....but a ??? blown one is maybe worth its weight in scrap metal....

jrgordonsenior

Without actually opening up the motor it's pure speculation. If the case halves are rebuildable they're certainly worth more than $1k, perhaps twice that. Is it a 3.4 or 3.6 and what part of the country are you located in?....

Frank 993 C4S

If the engine in its current state meets Porsche's core requirement, that's a $5,000+ benefit for someone who is looking to buy a Porsche crate engine. There is always a risk that Porsche would not accept it as a core so best talk to somebody that has experience with that.

Matt Romanowski

You can also get sleeves for this motor, so depending on how the cylinders look, you can either replate them or sleeve it. Probably worth more than a $1k, but you have to tear it down first to find out.

jdistefa

I would echo what everyone said above, plus....

You absolutely need to tear it down to know what you're dealing with. We've torn 3 of these motors down all with different patterns of internal disaster. The crank condition is the single biggest factor re. cost of replacement. Depending on the mileage/load/wear you also need to check the cylinders re. ovalized. This is also a problem with M96 motors and if out greater than 2/1000 then probably junk. Or needs re-sleeved which renders it illegal for many PCA race classes.

If you're rebuilding I would also add fresh piston rings and various ARP bolts to your budget.

Ritter v4.0

Is it a 3.4 or 3.6?

DOUGLAP1

I would ship it to Jake Raby at Flat 6 Innovations. He is the M96 guru.

Cogito_Ergo_Zoom

Thanks guys. It's a 3.4 and I'm in the Central Texas area. The most experienced indie shops in the region are TPWS in Austin and Rennsport in Sealy.

Douglap1, that's one of the options I was considering but that would likely turn into a $20k insurance policy effectively. I'm not sure I'm that paranoid about needing a spare. One of the options I'm considering is to just hang onto it as is for now and if the rules change for SP996 to allow some modifications for reliability, sending it to Jake for the full monty.

Jake actually has some interesting reading on his website that has given me even more things to worry about with the new reman motor just installed, eg. the whole lightened flywheel "problem", the unending "which oil" discussion, etc. etc. Sometimes I read too much of this stuff and it's convinced me the engine is going to grenade the first time I take it to redline.

Shall I infuriate the whole room by soliciting advice about break-in procedure for the new motor and which oil I should use to do it?

TRT41

really? how do you define guru?

Veloce Raptor

Pfftt. You don't need oil for break in. Run it dry and REALLY break it in

mglobe

Don't you read the online? It says he's the guru. It's on the online so it has to be true.

Frank 993 C4S

Don't drive yourself crazy. It's really easy to do.

Ritter v4.0

I ran my 3.4 hard for +120 hrs in SE heat incl enduros of 4 hrs or more. Redline every shift.
Motul 300v oil and gen2 OEM IMS bearing. The oil filer was inspected regularly along with periodic look at the IMS. Never any debris or an issue.

We just rebuilt it, but only because the power began to wane somewhat. Btw the gearbox too looked very fresh once it was opened for the new short gears.

Install X51 baffle, deep sump, etc. use good oil and change it often, then run it hard like God and Porsche intended. Que sera, sera <not singing>.

Paseb

i do have a 3.6 engine with 60000km on it if anybody interrested

complete engine

came from a flooded car

im from montreal but i can probably ship it on a wooden crate stuff