Garage size for lift
#16
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If it were me, I would put the lift in the middle of the space or at least 4-5' from the wall. It is likely that someone will need to open the door and get in and out. Think bleeding the brakes or certainly applying the brakes while the half shaft screws are being torqued.
#17
Three Wheelin'
Or do carriage house style doors that swing open. I had to use those for my garage since a high lift door wouldn't fit. Shouldn't be an issue in the OP's case since he's building, but it's an option.
#18
If it were me, I would put the lift in the middle of the space or at least 4-5' from the wall. It is likely that someone will need to open the door and get in and out. Think bleeding the brakes or certainly applying the brakes while the half shaft screws are being torqued.
#19
Rennlist Member
I had to fit mine in a 22x24 existing space but took out the ceiling in that half and had the rafters insulated/sheetrocked. I have no issue with the post being against the wall and have approx. 30" from the rear of my car to the door. I can put the car wherever I want actually, I think each arm on this lift could support the car's weight by itself!
This is before cabinets, etc..
This is before cabinets, etc..
#20
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks for the feedback. Im actually planning to mount the lift in the center of the garage so space around the sides should not be an issue. The side is actually where I plan to have my tool bench and boxes. After everyones feedback, Im thinking I need 25ft deep vs 21 ft. 21 could work but id rather have the extra space for the minimal cost to do so.
Thanks for posting the pics as its very helpful to see how others have done it. especially the high rise door. Now I can show my builder exactly what I want vs trying to describe it.
Brian
Thanks for posting the pics as its very helpful to see how others have done it. especially the high rise door. Now I can show my builder exactly what I want vs trying to describe it.
Brian
#21
Mr. Excitement
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Rennlist Member
The slab does not need to be extra thick but it does need to be the right strength. Be sure that the concrete used is 3000 psi or better so the anchor bolts have good purchase. Lifts don't sink into the floor the anchor bolts pull up and even that is rare. I prefer to use rebar rather than wire mesh. The slab will not shift when it cracks with rebar. When not if.
I would hate to have a lift in the middle of the room. Have a backyard shop with a lift post that is 2 feet off the wall and have never once wished it were further away. You will use the shop for many things besides working on the car while it is on the lift. If it is in the middle of the room it will be in the way.
99.9% of lift safety is the user. Mechanical failures are very rare. User errors that result in damage or injury are not rare.
I would hate to have a lift in the middle of the room. Have a backyard shop with a lift post that is 2 feet off the wall and have never once wished it were further away. You will use the shop for many things besides working on the car while it is on the lift. If it is in the middle of the room it will be in the way.
99.9% of lift safety is the user. Mechanical failures are very rare. User errors that result in damage or injury are not rare.