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Garage size for lift

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Old 07-15-2013, 01:29 PM
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paradisenb
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If it were me, I would put the lift in the middle of the space or at least 4-5' from the wall. It is likely that someone will need to open the door and get in and out. Think bleeding the brakes or certainly applying the brakes while the half shaft screws are being torqued.
Old 07-15-2013, 01:34 PM
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stownsen914
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Or do carriage house style doors that swing open. I had to use those for my garage since a high lift door wouldn't fit. Shouldn't be an issue in the OP's case since he's building, but it's an option.


Originally Posted by LuigiVampa
You want "high lift" garage doors otherwise you won't be able to open your garage doors when a car is on the lift. the garage doors have to basically go straight up and then curve a little at the top to clear your lift.
Old 07-15-2013, 02:13 PM
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pontifex4
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Originally Posted by paradisenb
If it were me, I would put the lift in the middle of the space or at least 4-5' from the wall. It is likely that someone will need to open the door and get in and out. Think bleeding the brakes or certainly applying the brakes while the half shaft screws are being torqued.
With most lifts, the door won't open farther than the outer edge of the column, but I do agree that it's nice to have room on either side to roll a cart around.
Old 07-15-2013, 04:03 PM
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Gary R.
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I had to fit mine in a 22x24 existing space but took out the ceiling in that half and had the rafters insulated/sheetrocked. I have no issue with the post being against the wall and have approx. 30" from the rear of my car to the door. I can put the car wherever I want actually, I think each arm on this lift could support the car's weight by itself!

This is before cabinets, etc..
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Old 07-15-2013, 04:32 PM
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xupkid2
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Thanks for the feedback. Im actually planning to mount the lift in the center of the garage so space around the sides should not be an issue. The side is actually where I plan to have my tool bench and boxes. After everyones feedback, Im thinking I need 25ft deep vs 21 ft. 21 could work but id rather have the extra space for the minimal cost to do so.

Thanks for posting the pics as its very helpful to see how others have done it. especially the high rise door. Now I can show my builder exactly what I want vs trying to describe it.

Brian
Old 07-15-2013, 04:47 PM
  #21  
kurt M
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The slab does not need to be extra thick but it does need to be the right strength. Be sure that the concrete used is 3000 psi or better so the anchor bolts have good purchase. Lifts don't sink into the floor the anchor bolts pull up and even that is rare. I prefer to use rebar rather than wire mesh. The slab will not shift when it cracks with rebar. When not if.

I would hate to have a lift in the middle of the room. Have a backyard shop with a lift post that is 2 feet off the wall and have never once wished it were further away. You will use the shop for many things besides working on the car while it is on the lift. If it is in the middle of the room it will be in the way.

99.9% of lift safety is the user. Mechanical failures are very rare. User errors that result in damage or injury are not rare.



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