What causes tires to rotate on the rims?
#16
Three Wheelin'
#17
Drifting
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'
Think of it as flat spot prevention under hard braking :-)
Acceleration induced tire slip is just saving your clutch :-)
Mike
Think of it as flat spot prevention under hard braking :-)
Acceleration induced tire slip is just saving your clutch :-)
Mike
#18
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John Purner at CCW confirmed 2BWise's suggestion.
John suggested roughing up both the bottom and some of the side where the tire bead sits on the rim. I used electrical tape for the rim lip because it was easier to position and duct tape on the inner.
The bead area of the wheels were lightly media blasted by my local body shop using the same blaster and media (it isn't sand) they use to remove surface rust.
Problem solved on my CCW C10 with R6, even when using regular mounting lube.
John suggested roughing up both the bottom and some of the side where the tire bead sits on the rim. I used electrical tape for the rim lip because it was easier to position and duct tape on the inner.
The bead area of the wheels were lightly media blasted by my local body shop using the same blaster and media (it isn't sand) they use to remove surface rust.
Problem solved on my CCW C10 with R6, even when using regular mounting lube.
#19
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The only thing I can think of is that the installer used too much goop (technical term). Developed severe rear tire vibration at Tremblant which Touchette diagnosed as tires rotating on rims. Re-balanced and marked the tires, which have again rotated.
Not sure if they de-mounted and cleaned the rims but I am guessing not.
Car is my 993 track car on Hoosier R-6.
Thanks for any insight.
Not sure if they de-mounted and cleaned the rims but I am guessing not.
Car is my 993 track car on Hoosier R-6.
Thanks for any insight.
Went to the pirelli and BBS wheels, never had the problem.
#20
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John suggested roughing up both the bottom and some of the side where the tire bead sits on the rim. I used electrical tape for the rim lip because it was easier to position and duct tape on the inner.
The bead area of the wheels were lightly media blasted by my local body shop using the same blaster and media (it isn't sand) they use to remove surface rust.
Problem solved on my CCW C10 with R6, even when using regular mounting lube.
The bead area of the wheels were lightly media blasted by my local body shop using the same blaster and media (it isn't sand) they use to remove surface rust.
Problem solved on my CCW C10 with R6, even when using regular mounting lube.
I need to talk with John about this, as I like the CCW wheels a lot.
Since I bought my original set they have changed the hardening process to shot peen (not sure what the original was) and that has lessened the problem (I am told). But still...
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It's not really a wheel problem, more of a Hoosier problem. Notice they are the only tires you ever hear about this with? They make their bead ID slightly larger than other manufacturers for some reason.
Sandblasting the wheel/roughening it up is just a work around of the real problem.
Sandblasting the wheel/roughening it up is just a work around of the real problem.
#22
Mr. Excitement
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It's not really a wheel problem, more of a Hoosier problem. Notice they are the only tires you ever hear about this with? They make their bead ID slightly larger than other manufacturers for some reason.
Sandblasting the wheel/roughening it up is just a work around of the real problem.
Sandblasting the wheel/roughening it up is just a work around of the real problem.
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Rick - have Spencer glass bead the lips of the rims, bet it solves the issue (or at the least will reduce it). Another trick is to spin balance the rims themselves but then you are relying on the tires being good...
#26
Mr. Excitement
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I mount and balance my own tires at home and have had the oppertunity to tinker with methods and materals. I found that cleaning the tire bead of mold release and the rim of whatever is important. I also tinkered with using nothing but water if the tire is going to sit for a while prior to use or hair spray if I need them the next day. Hairspray works well but you need to let it sit overnight. Windex works too in a pinch and makes a better thin film that straight water. I use windex for mounting street tires.
as said some rims are left in too smooth a finish where the bead and rim meet. In a pinch a knoted rope wire wheel on a 4.5 inch angle grinder can be run around in the bead seating area to add in some tooth. Not as purdy as media blasting but quick and simple and same end result of a rougher mating surface.
The standard tire shop type brush on tire slobber is the worst.
#27
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One more thing that helped us greatly, is to use lateral force to warmup from superlow pressures instead of accel/braking.
Once you've slalomed enough to get the pressures up, then you can do fun burnouts and ABS stoppies, but doing them too early definitely spins lowly pressured slicks.
Mark
Once you've slalomed enough to get the pressures up, then you can do fun burnouts and ABS stoppies, but doing them too early definitely spins lowly pressured slicks.
Mark
#28
Race Car
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I don't know if it's only a Hoosier problem. I don't think I've ever had a set stay put. I've always assumed braking is the culprit. But then, maybe the vibration part is Hoosier-specific. I've never had a vibration/balance issue caused by it.