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What causes tires to rotate on the rims?

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Old 07-15-2013, 04:09 PM
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2BWise
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Originally Posted by Astroman
Exactly what is the best method to "rough up" the inner lip of my wheels? I've got to figure something out...
You can bead blast the bead seat. I don't know the media off hand, but roughing up the surface by taping off the seat and blasting it will do the trick.
Old 07-15-2013, 04:54 PM
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txhokie4life
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'
Think of it as flat spot prevention under hard braking :-)

Acceleration induced tire slip is just saving your clutch :-)

Mike
Old 11-15-2013, 11:06 AM
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dave-C2
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Default Media Blast the Bead Area

John Purner at CCW confirmed 2BWise's suggestion.

John suggested roughing up both the bottom and some of the side where the tire bead sits on the rim. I used electrical tape for the rim lip because it was easier to position and duct tape on the inner.

The bead area of the wheels were lightly media blasted by my local body shop using the same blaster and media (it isn't sand) they use to remove surface rust.

Problem solved on my CCW C10 with R6, even when using regular mounting lube.
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Old 11-15-2013, 11:23 AM
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stujelly
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Originally Posted by RickBetterley
The only thing I can think of is that the installer used too much goop (technical term). Developed severe rear tire vibration at Tremblant which Touchette diagnosed as tires rotating on rims. Re-balanced and marked the tires, which have again rotated.
Not sure if they de-mounted and cleaned the rims but I am guessing not.
Car is my 993 track car on Hoosier R-6.
Thanks for any insight.
Had the problem all the time with factory wheels and R6 tires. I could get the tire to rotate almost 180 degrees and that was in the back…

Went to the pirelli and BBS wheels, never had the problem.
Old 11-15-2013, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by dave-C2
John suggested roughing up both the bottom and some of the side where the tire bead sits on the rim. I used electrical tape for the rim lip because it was easier to position and duct tape on the inner.

The bead area of the wheels were lightly media blasted by my local body shop using the same blaster and media (it isn't sand) they use to remove surface rust.

Problem solved on my CCW C10 with R6, even when using regular mounting lube.
Thanks, Dave - glad you shared this. I have to say - this just drives me crazy - I will be buying 2 new sets of wheels for the new Cayman track car and I need to further work them so the Hoosiers don't rotate?
I need to talk with John about this, as I like the CCW wheels a lot.
Since I bought my original set they have changed the hardening process to shot peen (not sure what the original was) and that has lessened the problem (I am told). But still...
Old 11-15-2013, 03:24 PM
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It's not really a wheel problem, more of a Hoosier problem. Notice they are the only tires you ever hear about this with? They make their bead ID slightly larger than other manufacturers for some reason.

Sandblasting the wheel/roughening it up is just a work around of the real problem.
Old 11-15-2013, 03:57 PM
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kurt M
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Originally Posted by Matt Romanowski
It's not really a wheel problem, more of a Hoosier problem. Notice they are the only tires you ever hear about this with? They make their bead ID slightly larger than other manufacturers for some reason.

Sandblasting the wheel/roughening it up is just a work around of the real problem.
I have seen more than just hohos turning on rims. R888s as example. Hohos might be worse than some others but they are not alone.
Old 11-16-2013, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by kurt M
I have seen more than just hohos turning on rims. R888s as example. Hohos might be worse than some others but they are not alone.
X2. roughing with sandpaper, then using 3M spray adhesive does the trick. better than hairspray. i'm strictly a gel man
Old 11-17-2013, 10:37 AM
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^^^^Ding Ding Ding...this is the ticket! Zero rotation with R6.
Old 11-17-2013, 10:41 AM
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Gary R.
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Originally Posted by 2BWise
You can bead blast the bead seat. I don't know the media off hand, but roughing up the surface by taping off the seat and blasting it will do the trick.
Rick - have Spencer glass bead the lips of the rims, bet it solves the issue (or at the least will reduce it). Another trick is to spin balance the rims themselves but then you are relying on the tires being good...
Old 11-18-2013, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary R.
Rick - have Spencer glass bead the lips of the rims, bet it solves the issue (or at the least will reduce it). Another trick is to spin balance the rims themselves but then you are relying on the tires being good...
I spin balance my rims and mark the weights with a "R" pressed into the foil tape. Those weights stay put tire after tire and I have to make a dented in mark or I end up washing the "R" off. I balance the tires and put a "T" on the tape for tire weights (or don't mark them at all, no mark = tire). I also mark the tire where the valve stem is so I can tell if a tire has clocked on the rim. If the tire clocks at the track I can look at the weight and stem to tire relationship and move the weight to rebalance. (I don't bother and have to admit have not had a tire clock in a good while.)

I mount and balance my own tires at home and have had the oppertunity to tinker with methods and materals. I found that cleaning the tire bead of mold release and the rim of whatever is important. I also tinkered with using nothing but water if the tire is going to sit for a while prior to use or hair spray if I need them the next day. Hairspray works well but you need to let it sit overnight. Windex works too in a pinch and makes a better thin film that straight water. I use windex for mounting street tires.

as said some rims are left in too smooth a finish where the bead and rim meet. In a pinch a knoted rope wire wheel on a 4.5 inch angle grinder can be run around in the bead seating area to add in some tooth. Not as purdy as media blasting but quick and simple and same end result of a rougher mating surface.

The standard tire shop type brush on tire slobber is the worst.
Old 11-18-2013, 10:22 AM
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One more thing that helped us greatly, is to use lateral force to warmup from superlow pressures instead of accel/braking.

Once you've slalomed enough to get the pressures up, then you can do fun burnouts and ABS stoppies, but doing them too early definitely spins lowly pressured slicks.

Mark
Old 11-18-2013, 08:05 PM
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I don't know if it's only a Hoosier problem. I don't think I've ever had a set stay put. I've always assumed braking is the culprit. But then, maybe the vibration part is Hoosier-specific. I've never had a vibration/balance issue caused by it.
Old 11-19-2013, 04:16 PM
  #29  
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Rick -- it's that cheater motor you have.

Dragsters with their 2000+ hp motors -- like yours -- have tire slip all the time.
Old 11-19-2013, 05:24 PM
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RickBetterley
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Originally Posted by fhp911
Rick -- it's that cheater motor you have.

Dragsters with their 2000+ hp motors -- like yours -- have tire slip all the time.
Now you know why I turned that awesome 2:15.11 at The Glen this year.


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