teamking

Hey all,

I'm getting ready to go to Mid Ohio with Chin in a few weeks. It's been nine years since I was last there (Forgive me, Father...)

Anyone got any good video (with data) that they can point me at as a reference. I've come across the following on youtube:



and


Thanks!

flatsics

https://vimeo.com/47474764

Sterling Doc

In case it rains: (which is pretty common at Mid-O):
https://vimeo.com/28988655

scott40

I will dig some up.

stujelly

that livery is the bomb

disasterman

https://vimeo.com/49644032

Pro Course

2012 NASA National race action but it demonstrates the dry line(s).

AudiOn19s

couple weeks ago, 996 on Nitto's.

My first attempt at integrated video and data. Couple seconds off my best lap fighting with rear grip issues, and cold, and wind and my hair was not parted correctly that day, and the wax on the car was a couple months old.

scott40

Haha- right on.

911Königin

PLEASE!! Stop torturing me I want to go back so bad
Cold is an understatement Great run

scott40

Here's one from the club race I ran there last summer...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRWYj...ature=youtu.be

flatsics

Hey, I know that 964

Nice video
Thanks for posting.

scott40

Haha- that was fun.

teamking

Thanks!

teamking

All,

Thanks for the replies! Here is video from my best, and last two laps at the event:


I'd love to get feedback/criticism. Also feel free to let me know if you have any suggests to improve the following track notes:

Turn 1: Brake about 250 (could work on braking a little later and trail-braking more into corner). Start about 4' from inside curbing. Apex by just kissing the terminus of the inside curbing. Can get on throttle well before apex, but need to find reference markers between turn in and apex to tell if car is on line or not.
Turn 2: Lifting abruptly upsets the balance, so smoothly lift and turn in slowly at the 200. Can use quite a bit of curbing at the apex. It may be possible to carry more speed in by not liftin as much or at all-- need to work up to this.
Turn 3: Brake after the car settles off of the curbing at 2. Get the car pointed toward 4 and take curbing at the apex.
Turn 4/5: Get on the throttle between 3 and 4, but then brake hard about 20-30 feet prior to the curbing for four. Just take a little curbing into 4 and trail brake to rotate the car. Swing wide through 4 and use the change in elevation (which is not obvious in videos, but probably is about 8 feet) to help rotate the car. Apex 5 late by staying off the throttle and taking a little curb at the apex. Squeeze on the gas gently to avoid too much oversteer. Avoid the curb at the track out.
Turn 6: 4th gear between 5 and 6, but the kink (6) is flat out using an outside inside outside line. Check mirrors, gauges, and loosen arms/hands on straight.
Turn 7: Begin braking at the second to last yellow fence/gate on the left (~600 ft). Start bending the car into the corner just after the 100. Touch the curbing at the apex and track out 3/4.
Turn 8: Brake about 50' from curbing on left, about 1/4 of the way across track. Stay tight to, but not on curbing at apex. Unwind wheel over hump to avoid losing the rear end. Note that this line compromises ability to carry speed over hump. It's worth trying to set the corner up more by entering from 1/2 rather than 1/4 across the track, getting the turning done earlier, and carrying more speed over the hump and down into nine.
Turn 9: Run the line you are on after coming over 8. Basically, just try to make it 1/2 track width back across to the left (i.e., if you come over the hump 3/4 to the right, you will enter Nine 1/4 to the left). Brake hard, trail brake, late apex, touch the curb, track out half way to set up for 10.
Turn 10: Should be full throttle or just a little lift. Can take a lot of curbing at apex.
Turn 11: Take a lot of curbing and use trailing throttle to rotate the car to point it toward the turn in for 12.
Turn 12: Brake hard and apply just a hint of steering input to get the car rotating by the turn in point. Begin unwinding the wheel at the apex and be judicious with the throttle over the hump into the Chute. Track out all the way left but avoid curbing. Stay left through Chute to set up braking for 13.
Turn 13: Start working back to the right of the track at the bridge in order to set up a straighter braking zone for 13. Begin braking at 250 (this could probably be extended), and turn in at about 50. Apex on the curbing, near its terminus. Be on some throttle the whole way through to keep the rear end planted and add throttle as available and track all the way out to the right.
Turn 14: Very late braking is possible because the rise in elevation will 'catch' you on the way in. Enter the corner without really setting it up (you stay to the right after having tracked out at 13, and immediately brake for 14). Your momentum and late braking will carry you 2/3 of the way to the left. Use trail braking and elevation change to rotate the car. Very late apex at the bump and stay right to set up 15. The idea is to take 14 slow enough that you can take 15 without lifting.
Turn 15: Full thottle, kiss the curbing at the apex and hold it throttle down to the curbing at the track out. If you had to lift, you need to apex 14 later to set up 15 more.

Sterling Doc

Nice smooth hands and inputs - that will serve you well. There is some low hanging fruit there, though! I'll use you turn designations:

Turn 1: Your track notes mention more trail braking into the corner - not a good idea. Mid-corner, and exit speed is everything here (though even more so on the pro course). Brake just enough to set the nose, right before the bridge, and then get back on the gas. This will settle the car down, and allow for minimum speeds in the low to mid 80's, apexing toward the end of the inside curbing. Use all of the track out curbing - it's smooth. Left foot braking works wonders here to minimize chassis disruption with a high speed turn in.

Turn 5: Try to get the car rotated, and be fully committed to the gas by the time the track drops out just after the apex. The car will lose grip, and scrubbing the front tires to try and force it will only slow you down. On a momentum car, getting the wheels straight, and using the downhill to gain speed early in this straight provides huge dividends into the best passing opportunity on the track.

Turn 7,8: MUCH more speed available into Madness. You should positively stuff the car in, carrying the high speed from the previous straight as long, and far as you can. Turn in earlier, and trail brake DEEP here, then briefly mash the gas directly towards the apex of turn 8. You should almost slide off track left as you get to the apex of turn 8. At this point, it should seem that you've completely screwed the pooch for turn 8, but the magic of the sudden elevation change will give you momentary, monster grip, so much it can be hard to turn the wheel. Grab the car by the scruff of it's neck and compress almost all of your turning left into the uphill section so that the car is mostly (but not completely) parallel to the track. Once the car unloads over the top, you'll be wishing you'd have wrung it's neck a little harder (while you had the grip) if you end up pointed much towards the outside. Your car has suddenly gone from superhero grip to Bambi on ice, and you are going off where your pointed. Try to save it then, and you'll just go off backwards - ride it out.

Turn 10: Should be no lift. Take all of the curbing, or even a little dirt inside.

Turn 11: This (and turn 1) is the one bit of apex curbing you DON'T use. Notice how when you take that apex, you have to unwind the wheel before you turn in for 12, and you still don't make it to the outside curbing before you turn in for 12. Stay a good car width off of the curbing, and start a nice arc into 12 from the outside curbing of the track (or at least next to the curbing)

Turn 12: Turn in a little early, on the gas, and put the entire car on the wide inside curbing as you launch over the top diagonally. Straighten the wheel as the car unloads, then put some wheel back in, progressively, as the car lands on the far side. Use all of the curbing on track out, and don't brown stain if you put two wheels off - the track comes back to you - gently ride it out (can often stay in the gas). DON'T pinch it off to avoid going two off - you will spin and get collected by all your buddies (helpless as they come over the top nearly airborne behind you) as you pinball down the walls in ThunderValley.

Turn 13: A little like Madness, you can stuff the car in faster than seems prudent. The timing is tricky as the apex (which you want all of, and maybe then some) is blind. Data comparisons at NASA Nationals between the top 4 944 Spec guys showed one guy schooling the rest of us by 3/10's there. How? The rest of us treated that like a regular turn - brake, turn in, gas/apex to track out. Dan (an ex-Ford sponsored pro-drifter) stuffed the car in so hard, he did not accelerate before Turn 14, just came straight through with massive corner entry speed, and somehow gathered the car up enough to brake for turn 14, on track right. The 13-14 stretch is so short, that setting the car up to accelerate down it is not worth giving up the (very fast) corner entry speed to make it happen. [Warning - this requires large *****, and superlative car control, but take home is that this can be a fast in, slow(er) out corner]

These unusual segments is what makes Mid-O such a great track - you can make the car do things that don't seem possible anywhere else (and make a lot of time), if you get the lines, and most importantly, the timing right.