993 C4S brake question
#16
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The Textars are just fine if the car is a dual use car and are cheaper than rotors and yellows. Don't get me wrong, I LOVED the yellows and you can reeeeealy late brake with them, just depends on what you'd rather spend money on. ATE Blue always worked well for me, for what it's worth, but it too would get warm and show a hint of squish after a good long day of hard driving......could have been rubber brake lines to though.....
#17
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I think your issue could easily be resolved by simply bleeding your brakes and not running them down to 25%. Even though I am a very slow driver, I have never had any problems with a Porsche and stock pads and fluid on the track following those two simple rules. Overbraking will lIkely also have contributed to the problem.
IMHO - What you will find is that your Pagid Yellows will squeal like little piglets and that they will overpower stock tires, and yes, they eat rotors too.
IMHO - What you will find is that your Pagid Yellows will squeal like little piglets and that they will overpower stock tires, and yes, they eat rotors too.
#18
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I dont normally wear my brake pads down that far. I didnt have many miles on them but the track time at Sebring really wore through them quickly. The car went through a tech inspection before the event and passed. I need to check them throughout the event.
I dont mind the squeal, I will only be running them at the track. I have heard they are hungry and will eat rotors up. I will keep an eye on them and probably order a set to keep at home ready to go.
I dont mind the squeal, I will only be running them at the track. I have heard they are hungry and will eat rotors up. I will keep an eye on them and probably order a set to keep at home ready to go.
#19
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If I may add, if you're going to go through all of that effort, why not just bleed often, stick with Textars and stay stock? You really don't want to go back and forth between the two brands of pad, you'll find you're not going to like either pad after a few events. They are completely different compounds, do different things to the rotors and deposit materials different. If you're going Yellows, you're going to want a track rotor and then go back to all street when you get home. Yellows suck cold and offer no stopping power on the street, squeal like a stuck pig and don't wear well.
But if you don't drive 8/10ths + and aren't running slicks and aren't in white black or better run group, you are completely wasting time and money.
If it's a street car you drive to the event, send the Yellows back, really![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I trailered, flogged the hell out of the car on PSS9's and meaty Yokohama race slicks (305's and 245's) and Yellows were still more brake pad than the car needed...........but boy can you scare the daylights out of anyone around you or a passenger
But if you don't drive 8/10ths + and aren't running slicks and aren't in white black or better run group, you are completely wasting time and money.
If it's a street car you drive to the event, send the Yellows back, really
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I trailered, flogged the hell out of the car on PSS9's and meaty Yokohama race slicks (305's and 245's) and Yellows were still more brake pad than the car needed...........but boy can you scare the daylights out of anyone around you or a passenger
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#20
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Since you already have "big reds", I'd still suggest you take it step by step. Bleed the brakes and use new OEM pads first and see how it goes. There is no way you should have any problems with street tires.
#22
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When you say bleed the brakes often, do you mean during the event between runs? Or after a day or just before the event? I have always bled them before the event.
#23
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I don't understand the statements about rotor/pad life
On my 99% track 993 w/ RS brakes and RS29 yellow pads, In front I get between a low of 4200mi and a high of 5500mi to get then down to ~50% worn which is when I change them out. In back 11000mi.
To keep them from squealing keep them clean and dry or at least don't put them away wet. I get very little squeal that way, mostly none but it tends to build as they get dirty. To keep thenm clean blow dry w/ air then thoroughly flush w/ a hose then brake them dry before you park the car for the night/ week or whatever, obviously this can't be done at multi day events
I like to change rotors w/ the pads when possible, before I started using Gyro disk fronts they would crack out at 2:1 so stock rotors were changed once between pad changes, In back they always get badly grooved so pad/rotor have always been swapped at the same time, the Gyro disks appear to be wearing as well as the pads so it looks like I can get 1 set of pads to one set of rotors.
I never had issues w/ ATE200 changed at the beginning of the season, but have gone to Prospeed RS 683 just because it is American made. 993C4S will stress the fronts more so your experience will vary
Street pads are nor designed for track use and will wear faster transfer more heat into the fluid and in general not provide the best possible track experience
On my 99% track 993 w/ RS brakes and RS29 yellow pads, In front I get between a low of 4200mi and a high of 5500mi to get then down to ~50% worn which is when I change them out. In back 11000mi.
To keep them from squealing keep them clean and dry or at least don't put them away wet. I get very little squeal that way, mostly none but it tends to build as they get dirty. To keep thenm clean blow dry w/ air then thoroughly flush w/ a hose then brake them dry before you park the car for the night/ week or whatever, obviously this can't be done at multi day events
I like to change rotors w/ the pads when possible, before I started using Gyro disk fronts they would crack out at 2:1 so stock rotors were changed once between pad changes, In back they always get badly grooved so pad/rotor have always been swapped at the same time, the Gyro disks appear to be wearing as well as the pads so it looks like I can get 1 set of pads to one set of rotors.
I never had issues w/ ATE200 changed at the beginning of the season, but have gone to Prospeed RS 683 just because it is American made. 993C4S will stress the fronts more so your experience will vary
Street pads are nor designed for track use and will wear faster transfer more heat into the fluid and in general not provide the best possible track experience
Last edited by Bill Verburg; 03-22-2013 at 11:57 AM.
#24
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Pagid yellows do not "tear up" rotors.
They are not an aggresive pad.
They may have their faults; not aggresive enough for some and they seem to loose a bit of performance once worn past 50%, but they do what they were designed to do and are a favorite of many, me included.
They are not an aggresive pad.
They may have their faults; not aggresive enough for some and they seem to loose a bit of performance once worn past 50%, but they do what they were designed to do and are a favorite of many, me included.
#25
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Oh don't get me wrong, they are great pads, but I disagree in that they don't "tear up" rotors. I drive hard and fast and have "worn through" let's go with, rotors using Yellows. And I don't mean slam on the brakes use. I am very smooth at inputs, and understand brake modulation. With a 4S as the OP and I have, the weight must make a difference. I'm sure there are more aggressive pads, but yellows aren't light duty pads. I'm sure different tracks make a dent in brake wear too, so can any of us really say what's best? I just think for a dual purpose car, new Textar's aren't a terrible way to go for most DE guys. Street cars usually only get driven 6-7 10th's anyway from what I've seen.