Oddjob

8mm 12 point correct for the motorsport rim assembly bolts? Bolts themselves are M7 (?).

FLA997

12 point 8 mm socket is correct.

Derek@TRG

As FLA997 stated, 8MM 12point socket is correct. The bolt is an M6 1.0 thread pitch. I have plenty of the 25mm and 30mm lengths in stock if you need some.

Gofishracing

very low torque spec. Don't overtighten. Get correct inch lbs.

Derek@TRG

We tourque ours to 150 IN/LB

JoeMag

Ref below from Woodman regarding torque. I've heard from a few folks to torque, then after mount a tire recheck.

http://www.bobwoodmantires.com/bwtrims.php

One I recently learned is that you can buy the threaded inserts in the wheels from BBS if for some reason you damage one. They're really in there tight though.

Oddjob

Thanks guys.

Disassembling a set of 17" BBS E26 wheels to change rim halves (different offset). Just wanted to double check the socket size, as I was going to stop by Sears on the way home from work and pickup the correct tool. No problem there.

The 145-155 in-lbs torque spec is pretty light, approx 13 ft-lbs (although that is pretty high for a little M6 bolt). Can't believe 10 in-lbs increased spec makes much of a difference (?).

Derek, will let you know on the bolts. Haven't checked what length I need. Still have to find/buy some rim halves for the full set, so will be tinkering w/ this project over the winter as I get to it.

Any consensus on using new BBS seal rings, versus reusing the existing ones and running a bead of silicone sealant along the mating surface? Right or wrong, Ive seen more than a few used rim halves that have a sealant residue on them.

Oddjob

How are the nut/retainers installed in the rim - press fit, splined, other? I am thinking about refinishing the centers, so need to find out the proper way to pull these out.

KLehmann

Yes the flat nuts are splined and pressed in. Depending on the shape of your centers, they can be easy or a bit more challenging to get out.

If your centers have a flat flange that the nut sits in, and the wheel spoke does not partially surround the nut, you can press the nut out very easily with a light bench vise. I use a regular M6 hex head bolt and a 1/2" or 13mm socket. A light turn of the vise will push the flat nut out and you'll see the splines on the nut when it comes out.

If your center has spokes that surround nut on the inner area of the nut, you have to take your socket to a bench grinder and contour it to clear the spoke. What you end up with is a "chair" shape and you're left with a semi-circle around the nut at the flange. The ground away part of the socket sits up on the spoke.

Gofishracing

I have heard that silicone will heat cycle out on rim halves. I recall recently being told that CCW has changed their adhesive on wheel halves. I'd check before assembly with regular silicone.