Garage floor coating advice
10-13-2012, 11:25 PM
#17
I have the Sherwinn-Williams epoxy and it has worked well. Make sure you use plenty of grit mixed in it. We didn't have enough grit in the first batch we applied. It was slicker than snot on a glass door **** when wet!
I have had no issues with delamination from the concrete. It does scuff relatively easily. Dropped heavy objects haven't cracked it or marred the finish.
I have had no issues with delamination from the concrete. It does scuff relatively easily. Dropped heavy objects haven't cracked it or marred the finish.
10-15-2012, 10:39 AM
#19
Mr. Excitement
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The tile place I am working with has a membrane that goes between the concrete and the tile. It allows the concrete expansion joints to work without cracking the tile...we'll see. They are recommending the larger tiles and I like the look, I expect some will crack I'll have some spares just in case. It is a garage floor but I know I'm going to be completely **** about it for a year or two....I'm hoping to have enough cars in it to cover any flaws
The down side to all tile is the grout. The grout lines trap crud when you are sweeping and it will soak up stains unless you use epoxy based grouts. I have yet to find a grout sealer that works well in a com shop enviroment.
10-15-2012, 11:54 AM
#21
Race Car
As I understand it, all tiles are rated for three things. One is hardness (the PEI scale of 1-5) -- and you want a 4 or 5 tile for a garage application. One is coefficient of friction -- different building codes require different degrees of non-slipperiness (but most tiles sold as floor tiles will be fine, unlike bathroom/wall tiles). Tiles are also rated for moisture content, which has to be appropriate for whether they'll be exposed to sub-freezing temperatures.
I didn't do anything at all to avoid cracking (like a membrane, or even non-standard thinset and grout). Maybe I was just lucky, but my pad was poured when Calvin Coolidge was President, is NOT flat, and I'm right near the La Brea Tar Pits (which means both earthquakes and huge amounts of asphaltum oozing around underneath the local properties). My pad had been crudely extended when a modern door was added, so there was a 24" section of amateur, wheelbarrow mix that was about an inch lower than the rest of the pad.
Plus, the installer (me) had never touched a bag of thinset in his life. And that was in March of 2008. Four and a half years later, I still love my floor.
Tiles are like the concrete they sit on. They're very strong in compression, but weak in tension. So you can balance a pick-up truck on a single tile, if it's installed without voids under it. But you can also snap one in your hand.
I used the basic thinset and basic grout. I drop tools, jack up the car, and move 800# cabinets over the stuff. I could post the video clip again, but I'm hitting the tile with a sledge hammer -- enough to make the camera jump up and down on the floor. No damage.
My solution to the issue of the grout getting stained was to use dark brown grout. It's hard to stain something that's dark brown. I've spilled everything you can spill on it and can't see any change.
I didn't do anything at all to avoid cracking (like a membrane, or even non-standard thinset and grout). Maybe I was just lucky, but my pad was poured when Calvin Coolidge was President, is NOT flat, and I'm right near the La Brea Tar Pits (which means both earthquakes and huge amounts of asphaltum oozing around underneath the local properties). My pad had been crudely extended when a modern door was added, so there was a 24" section of amateur, wheelbarrow mix that was about an inch lower than the rest of the pad.
Plus, the installer (me) had never touched a bag of thinset in his life. And that was in March of 2008. Four and a half years later, I still love my floor.
Tiles are like the concrete they sit on. They're very strong in compression, but weak in tension. So you can balance a pick-up truck on a single tile, if it's installed without voids under it. But you can also snap one in your hand.
I used the basic thinset and basic grout. I drop tools, jack up the car, and move 800# cabinets over the stuff. I could post the video clip again, but I'm hitting the tile with a sledge hammer -- enough to make the camera jump up and down on the floor. No damage.
My solution to the issue of the grout getting stained was to use dark brown grout. It's hard to stain something that's dark brown. I've spilled everything you can spill on it and can't see any change.
Last edited by JackOlsen; 10-15-2012 at 12:22 PM.
10-15-2012, 03:39 PM
#23
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I'm with Jack on the tile thing.
I've laid about 1,000ftsq since starting to learn in the past two years and am a firm believer.
No need to spend a fortune, just do the job correctly - I am a big believer in the Ditra membrane, but it can add to the price of materials.
Advise aganst large format tiles - the problem with these is lipage, flatness and the possibility of voids.
Ditto with the grout; go dark and you won't care about staining.
I've laid about 1,000ftsq since starting to learn in the past two years and am a firm believer.
No need to spend a fortune, just do the job correctly - I am a big believer in the Ditra membrane, but it can add to the price of materials.
Advise aganst large format tiles - the problem with these is lipage, flatness and the possibility of voids.
Ditto with the grout; go dark and you won't care about staining.
10-15-2012, 09:53 PM
#24
Three Wheelin'
garage floor coating
OK, I've had a number of garages, tried many coatings. My current garagehas the best floor coating I have used. It is coated with Sherwin Williams rexthane http://protective.sherwin-williams.c...3Aproduct-6872
Nothing penetrates it, not brake fluid, lacquer thinner, or anything. It is real easy to clean and wears very well. I did two coats on a 6 month old concrete floor. It lists for about 300 bucks a gallon, but the guys at SW were great and with a little negotiating, I got it for around $110 per gallon. It is a single part product and moisture assists curing (great for newer concrete). If you are buying 5 gallons, negotiate 5 single gallon containers(I did) for the same price. This stuff needs to be used when opened. Best product I have found!
Nothing penetrates it, not brake fluid, lacquer thinner, or anything. It is real easy to clean and wears very well. I did two coats on a 6 month old concrete floor. It lists for about 300 bucks a gallon, but the guys at SW were great and with a little negotiating, I got it for around $110 per gallon. It is a single part product and moisture assists curing (great for newer concrete). If you are buying 5 gallons, negotiate 5 single gallon containers(I did) for the same price. This stuff needs to be used when opened. Best product I have found!
10-17-2012, 09:37 PM
#26
Race Car
Nope. Both are clay-based. Porcelain tile can be glazed (like ceramic) or 'through-bodied.' Through-body has the material itself colored to the final tint. Most porcelain is glazed, however -- with a neutral color body underneath it. So if it does chip, you'll see another color where the chip is.
There is also rectified porcelain, which is cut after it's fired, which gives it an absolutely flat shape, allowing closer placement and (sometimes) the elimination of grout altogether.
Both through-bodied and rectified are significantly more expensive.
There is also rectified porcelain, which is cut after it's fired, which gives it an absolutely flat shape, allowing closer placement and (sometimes) the elimination of grout altogether.
Both through-bodied and rectified are significantly more expensive.
10-17-2012, 11:52 PM
#27
Nordschleife Master
So is any of these product tougher than the others, or does it then simply become a matter of taste and budget? And is any better as a flooring application?
10-18-2012, 12:38 AM
#28
Race Car
Yes. On the tile front, porcelain is better than ceramic because it's harder (and also tends to have a lower moisture content). And through-bodied is better than glazed -- in that if you do chip a tile, it will be less visible. (But then, you can always replace a damaged tile.)
10-18-2012, 08:12 PM
#29
Nordschleife Master
This is a fellow Porsche Racer that owns a franchise operation for some of the best and most creative products you will find. Want a logo floated into the floor, no prob. If you ever went to about have the ballparks in the US and Disney you will find his products. Truly amazing
http://www.flycti.com/Default.aspx?PID=3
http://www.flycti.com/Default.aspx?PID=3
