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911 SC to 996

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Old 08-15-2011 | 08:58 AM
  #1  
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Default 911 SC to 996

I have been DE'ing a stock 1980 911SC for several years and I am now thinking about moving to a more modern car. I have found a really good deal on a 1999 996. The car will be used 60% track, 40% weekend pleasure. The SC stays in the stable. Except for knowing about the RMS and IMS issues, I really haven't paid much attention to 996's so I have a few questions about setting it up for initial track use.

First, the seller tells me (and has the documentation) that it has a new factory M96 motor with all 2005 mods including the RMS and IMS factory fixes. Are these good enough or should I plan on having the LN IMS fix installed at the first opportunity?

Second, isn't there an oil pickup issue with early 996's? Any one know the fix?

Third, the suspension is original, as in 12 years old, so I know that will have to go. Rotors are also expected to be changed out. Are caliper rebuilds a DYI job on these cars or should I budget sending them off?

I would like to take the cheap way out initially for the suspension. How would new springs plus Koni's and sway bars do versus PSS10's or KW? Or am I just kidding myself there and just go ahead and bite the bullet?

Any and all thoughts are much appreciated.
Old 08-15-2011 | 10:42 AM
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Yes, there is an oil starvation problem--ln engineering has a deep sump kit that you can probably put on yourself. There is an instructional video on youtube on how to do the install.

Can't be of any use on the other questions

Justin
Old 08-15-2011 | 12:49 PM
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They're fun cars - good choice! I recommend you buy someone's old Spec996 suspension if possible (bilsteins with stiffer springs), then get it aligned with as much negative camber up front as possible, with 0.5 less negative in the rear. When aligning these cars make sure your guy knows to relax all the suspension links at the new ride height (x74 or GT3 height works well for a car that also goes on the street) - if they don't you'll have issues. Oil pressure issues are hit or miss - the x51 oil pain doesn't really change the drops in pressure that occur in long fast sweepers, at least on the 3.6 engines.
Old 08-16-2011 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Hal
Second, isn't there an oil pickup issue with early 996's? Any one know the fix?
there is no permanent fix but there are several workarounds. expensive way is to put accusump system on. Search for it on 996 and cayman forums - reviews differ, so, decide for yourself about it.

A most typical solution is to put on X51 M96 oil pan. It has modified baffles that sit tight against engine walls soit allows much more oil to stay around pickup line. suncoast used to sell them but i just searched and found nothing.

other thing is a oil pan spacer that adds about of 0.5qt and extends lenght of oil pickup. some combine it with x51 pan but i am not sure if it will work as with spacers oil pan goes down a bit and baffles will not touch walls in same way. i just run with X51 oil pan and it helps. wihtout it at AX runs i had valve lifters getting air - after this pan valve knocking went away. so hopefully it works.

PS. if you do have some more money - search for 996 gt3 car, you may find one in $45K area. it`s much more fun and more realiable than any street 996 or 997 car and will save you ton of money on mods you`ll have to put on stock 996 C2 suspension.
Old 08-16-2011 | 11:47 PM
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not worth the headaches. Make your SC faster.
Old 08-17-2011 | 03:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Hal
I have been DE'ing a stock 1980 911SC for several years and I am now thinking about moving to a more modern car. I have found a really good deal on a 1999 996. The car will be used 60% track, 40% weekend pleasure. The SC stays in the stable. Except for knowing about the RMS and IMS issues, I really haven't paid much attention to 996's so I have a few questions about setting it up for initial track use.

First, the seller tells me (and has the documentation) that it has a new factory M96 motor with all 2005 mods including the RMS and IMS factory fixes. Are these good enough or should I plan on having the LN IMS fix installed at the first opportunity?

Second, isn't there an oil pickup issue with early 996's? Any one know the fix?

Third, the suspension is original, as in 12 years old, so I know that will have to go. Rotors are also expected to be changed out. Are caliper rebuilds a DYI job on these cars or should I budget sending them off?

I would like to take the cheap way out initially for the suspension. How would new springs plus Koni's and sway bars do versus PSS10's or KW? Or am I just kidding myself there and just go ahead and bite the bullet?

Any and all thoughts are much appreciated.
Your motor is good to go though I would add the x51 oil pan w/baffles. Keeping the temps down is of paramount importance so assuming those radiators are also 12 years old I would have a radiator shop dip/clean them. Then watch the temps on track, it should stay under 200. More than that consistantly and I'd add a 3rd radiator and maybe switch the side ones to the larger TT/GT3 versions. Run quality oil (NOT Mobil 1), change it every 2 events or so, and use a minimum of 5-40. I run 15-50 especially in the summer months...

Rotors and calipers are just fine OEM. I'd just run some quality fluid and decent pads. Also install the 997 GT3/TT brake ducts as they're significantly larger and cheaper than the 996 versions.

You need the GT3 2-piece lower control arms to acheive decent neg camber. You could only do the fronts for starters but eventually you'll want to install them at all corners. I run 550/700 lb. springs on mine though some like them stiffer. I'd stay away from cheap shocks. The PSS10's that Garrett mentioned are great shocks once revalved by Bilstein.

They are a great platform for a reasonable cost. Have fun....
Old 08-17-2011 | 08:51 PM
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JR, you forgot to mention a step to drop 500 something lbs from stock 996 car weight.
making a cup car competitor out of stock street 996/997 car is a pricy fun...
Old 08-17-2011 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jrgordonsenior
Your motor is good to go though I would add the x51 oil pan w/baffles. Keeping the temps down is of paramount importance so assuming those radiators are also 12 years old I would have a radiator shop dip/clean them. Then watch the temps on track, it should stay under 200. More than that consistantly and I'd add a 3rd radiator and maybe switch the side ones to the larger TT/GT3 versions. Run quality oil (NOT Mobil 1), change it every 2 events or so, and use a minimum of 5-40. I run 15-50 especially in the summer months...

Rotors and calipers are just fine OEM. I'd just run some quality fluid and decent pads. Also install the 997 GT3/TT brake ducts as they're significantly larger and cheaper than the 996 versions.

You need the GT3 2-piece lower control arms to acheive decent neg camber. You could only do the fronts for starters but eventually you'll want to install them at all corners. I run 550/700 lb. springs on mine though some like them stiffer. I'd stay away from cheap shocks. The PSS10's that Garrett mentioned are great shocks once revalved by Bilstein.

They are a great platform for a reasonable cost. Have fun....
This is exactly the right info. X51 oil pan for sure. GT3 control arms and maybe rear toe links, possibly GT3 sways with Tarrett drop links. PSS10's or if you want to go whole hog, go with the JRZ based Spec 996 suspension. With the JRZ package though it will be a pretty brutal ride on the street.

With the latest engine upgrades, you don't need the LN mods. I would definitely put in the third radiator. Suncoast sells the kit for I think $500 or $600, and it's not too hard a DIY project.

The 996 is a great track platform.



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