sig_a

Forget guessing with an inaccurate HF, the best for the least, particularly for lug nut torque is the USA manufactured, lifetime replacement guaranteed, highly accurate, $30 1/2" CRAFTSMAN beam style. 150 foot pound/200 Newton Meter scale

On the other hand, its your call.

rlm328

Negatory, Sears has a 1 year guarantee on their torque wrenches (non beam), as I would suspect Kobalt does.

For what we are doing torque wrenches are cheap if you suspect something is wrong with it get a new one.

kurt M

Lot of good advice given by others already. Both torque wrenches you mention are 100 pound range. You might find you need more range both at the top and bottom of the range. I have the Snap-on click head version that runs to 150. It has worked well over the years but I also have more than one T wrench. Check the values will you need for the work you have planned and find a t wrench or set that hits the values mid range for the wrench. You might need more than one wrench as a 100 pound wrench will not be accurate at 8 pounds and the like. An accurate beam type small range in inch pounds, a 100 and a 250 will cover most things other than high number items like some wheel bolts and the like. I also have a $20 type T wrench for lug nuts.
Some click at value T wrenches do not require you to release the setting between uses. I think they are worth a look just for this aspect alone. The electronic units with tone or vibration are handy for repetitive work.

I learned that how you use a T wrench likely has far more impact on a final torque value / clamping pressure than brand. Some aspects like wet or dry threads make a big difference. I do not drag my good motor/trans building T wrenches to the track or use them on lug nuts. No way do I ever use one to break things loose or beyond it's setting. I had an $8 HF t wrench for track use for years until it came back broken after a loan out.

gbuff

Find the December 2009 Grassroots Motorsports issue online....IIRC they compared HF, Craftsman and Snap-On click-type wrenches and the HF did surprisingly well.

Gary

CCA

Yep, I got 3 torque wrenches that spread the spectrum, two Snap-On clickers and the 3/8-drive 20-100 ft-lbs Kolbalt which is failing. The Kobalt is the main wrench used on the SM, so it really needs to be my most trust worthy wrench.

mglobe

I have the 1/2" Precision Instruments wrench and really like it a lot. Very easy to adjust, and there is a lock on the adjuster so once it's set it's not likely to move.

Here's a good deal on the 3/8" version: http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-i...-c2fr100f.aspx I've had good experiences buying from Tooltopia FWIW.

kurt M

Snap on and others make a click head type that can be left loaded at a setting without damage or lose of calibration. In talking to the mechanics this version seems to be the type that lasts in the shops in day to day repair work. The electronic ones are nice but run the risk of being dead when you need them. One mechanic had a real go around with snap on when his was cutting on and off. Took a while to get it resolved but he did.

It is hard to beat the bender bar type for lifespan. Downside is you have to look at the scale every time.

aj986s

X2 on Precision Instruments torque wrench. I bought the 1/2" model about a year ago, and been very happy with it. Used a lot! Split beam design allows set & forget; don't need to dial back as with the spring loaded wrenches. Came with a nice case, too.

Here's a link to the 1/2" model:


Here's the 3/8" model:

APKhaos

^ + 1 for the Precision Instruments split beam. Beautiful tool, and dead reliable.

jcs_911

^ + 94 ft-lb for the Precision Instruments split beam.

kurt M

Be sure not to lend it to hamfisted folks that then crank the ajustment wheel past the "stop" warning.

consolidated

One more for PI. Pivoting head gets to deep lugs easily and not having to turn it down is one less thing to do.