flightline

I guess I'm convinced on the matter of the lapbelt mounting. I've ordered the harness, and will be making the backing plate. Is the area on the inside of the tunnel perfectly flat? I can bend the plate if that would give a better matching contour.

Is there any advantage to the snap-in setup other than easy of removal? I'm thinking about going with this type of setup instead:


For the sub-straps I'm going to weld a piece of tubing between the two seat verticals and wrap them. Does anyone know what kind of loads can be expected for these straps?

Edit: Looks like the FIA specifies a minimum breaking strength for the crotch straps of 1130 daN (11.3 kN) each, which is actually less than I expected.

por944s2

Here is a pic from when I installed them in my old S2. I would mount the sub belt bolts forward about an inch, so that they are in the indentation, which will allow you to lower your seat more depending on your heights. For the outboard side buy the BREY KRAUSE RACING HARNESS OUTER LAP BELT MOUNT FOR PORSCHES, and an eye bolt inboard. Use some Loctite red as well.

flightline

Why should I buy an $80 part when I could just use a bolt-in bracket for $10 instead? And I think I'll be sticking with blue loctite, I really don't want to have to take a torch to the car to be able to take it out.

Is there any reason to go with the eyebolts over the direct bolt-in? I think the bolts must be stronger, as there is much less torque applied to the backing plate and body in an impact. I would also think that circular or oval backing plates would be stronger, as they don't have corners to create stress concentrations in the body.

por944s2

I don't see why not, but plan on spending more time getting the belts fit properly, as with the eye bolts you can un-clip them and adjust, you will need to unbolt them and adjust. Once done I marked mine with a sharpie so I can find the correct spot quickly, otherwise no big deal.

Red is not that strong and that's the advise I was given by a pro race prep shop. Good Luck..