996 fluid change interval/Brakes etc - DE green group
06-14-2011 | 12:13 PM
#16
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 12,008
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From: Hyde Park, NY
Oh, one more thing - if you do find yourself swapping between street and track pads, mark the pads to make sure they go back in the same places. Otherwise you can get dragging and uneven wear.
06-14-2011 | 02:06 PM
#17
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,762
Likes: 23
I use a Motive that is filled with the new fluid. A liter should be enough to do a full flush. What I do:
1) with a suction pump, pull as much fluid as possible out of the reservoir on the master cylinder
2) pour new fluid in Motive, hook it up to reservoir, and pressurize to 15 psi.
3) take empty new-fluid bottle and a little piece of tubing and start with the outside bleeder on the brake caliper farthest away from the master cylinder (by brake line routing)
4) start bleeding and have the old fluid drain through the hose into the bottle - now, I have 4 brakes (8 bleeders) and I know I have a liter of fluid going in, so I kind of "gauge" how much fluid comes out of each caliper. For the 1st rear caliper, you want to take out about 1/3 of a liter (1/4 on first bleeder and a little bit from the 2nd bleeder, since it only has to empty the one side of the caliper)
5) move on to the second rear caliper, starting with the outside bleeder, fill your bottle up so it's just over 1/2 full
6) move to the first front caliper, and fill the bottle up to almost 3/4
7) move to the last caliper and fill the bottle almost all the way up
8) Don't take out exactly a liter if you've sucked fluid out of the reservoir first... You'll be a little short.
1) with a suction pump, pull as much fluid as possible out of the reservoir on the master cylinder
2) pour new fluid in Motive, hook it up to reservoir, and pressurize to 15 psi.
3) take empty new-fluid bottle and a little piece of tubing and start with the outside bleeder on the brake caliper farthest away from the master cylinder (by brake line routing)
4) start bleeding and have the old fluid drain through the hose into the bottle - now, I have 4 brakes (8 bleeders) and I know I have a liter of fluid going in, so I kind of "gauge" how much fluid comes out of each caliper. For the 1st rear caliper, you want to take out about 1/3 of a liter (1/4 on first bleeder and a little bit from the 2nd bleeder, since it only has to empty the one side of the caliper)
5) move on to the second rear caliper, starting with the outside bleeder, fill your bottle up so it's just over 1/2 full
6) move to the first front caliper, and fill the bottle up to almost 3/4
7) move to the last caliper and fill the bottle almost all the way up
8) Don't take out exactly a liter if you've sucked fluid out of the reservoir first... You'll be a little short.
I just read what seemed like 100 threads on brakes and this is what I gathered:
Race pads like the Pagid yellow/black or orange are great but only if you are using R rated tires, these will overpower street tire and cause ABS to kick in and will squeal on the street - this is out till I decide to use track tires.
Non OEM Street pads like Hawk HPS are a good OEM alternative but dont outlast OEMs on the 996 in most cases - since OEM seem to brake fine for me, I dont see the need for those as I would at least like them to last longer.
Looks like a pair of OEM texstars are the way to go for me for the time being.
06-14-2011 | 05:22 PM
#18
Mr. Excitement
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,439
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From: Fallschurch Va
Very good advice - it's the same for me.
I use a Motive that is filled with the new fluid. A liter should be enough to do a full flush. What I do:
1) with a suction pump, pull as much fluid as possible out of the reservoir on the master cylinder
2) pour new fluid in Motive, hook it up to reservoir, and pressurize to 15 psi.
3) take empty new-fluid bottle and a little piece of tubing and start with the outside bleeder on the brake caliper farthest away from the master cylinder (by brake line routing)
4) start bleeding and have the old fluid drain through the hose into the bottle - now, I have 4 brakes (8 bleeders) and I know I have a liter of fluid going in, so I kind of "gauge" how much fluid comes out of each caliper. For the 1st rear caliper, you want to take out about 1/3 of a liter (1/4 on first bleeder and a little bit from the 2nd bleeder, since it only has to empty the one side of the caliper)
5) move on to the second rear caliper, starting with the outside bleeder, fill your bottle up so it's just over 1/2 full
6) move to the first front caliper, and fill the bottle up to almost 3/4
7) move to the last caliper and fill the bottle almost all the way up
8) Don't take out exactly a liter if you've sucked fluid out of the reservoir first... You'll be a little short.
A few people have had the tubing on the Motive leak... this can cause an awful mess... and is a good reason not to put fluid in the bleeder. However, I do my fluid flushes on a lift, so I don't want to have to be lowering the car, depressurizing the reservoir, topping it off and starting over so many times... YMMV
I use a Motive that is filled with the new fluid. A liter should be enough to do a full flush. What I do:
1) with a suction pump, pull as much fluid as possible out of the reservoir on the master cylinder
2) pour new fluid in Motive, hook it up to reservoir, and pressurize to 15 psi.
3) take empty new-fluid bottle and a little piece of tubing and start with the outside bleeder on the brake caliper farthest away from the master cylinder (by brake line routing)
4) start bleeding and have the old fluid drain through the hose into the bottle - now, I have 4 brakes (8 bleeders) and I know I have a liter of fluid going in, so I kind of "gauge" how much fluid comes out of each caliper. For the 1st rear caliper, you want to take out about 1/3 of a liter (1/4 on first bleeder and a little bit from the 2nd bleeder, since it only has to empty the one side of the caliper)
5) move on to the second rear caliper, starting with the outside bleeder, fill your bottle up so it's just over 1/2 full
6) move to the first front caliper, and fill the bottle up to almost 3/4
7) move to the last caliper and fill the bottle almost all the way up
8) Don't take out exactly a liter if you've sucked fluid out of the reservoir first... You'll be a little short.
A few people have had the tubing on the Motive leak... this can cause an awful mess... and is a good reason not to put fluid in the bleeder. However, I do my fluid flushes on a lift, so I don't want to have to be lowering the car, depressurizing the reservoir, topping it off and starting over so many times... YMMV
Inspect the tubing and clean between uses. Easy clean method. Dump the remaining fluid out, while holding the motive by the cap with the rest dangling take a can of brake clean and spray it in the cap letting it run down through the hose into the tank. Once the cap, gasket and tubing is clean spray some more into the tank and slosh it around. Dump it out in a pan on some paper towel to evaporate and spray off the pump a little. Leave it open for a while so the brake clean can evaporate and you are done. No muss, no fuss, 2 min spent tops. It takes less time to clean it top to bottom than it does to stop, let the air out, add some more fluid to the little reservoir, put the cap back on and pump it back up even once. Keep in mind you have to do this like 10 times for a good flush.
06-14-2011 | 09:40 PM
#19
Pro
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 633
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I use Sumi HTRZ III tires... nothing fancy............
General brake flush question: when going from the golden colored ATE to the golden colored Motul, how do I know when to stop letting fluid out at the caliper? I think I might flush the brakes myself - Have a motive bleeder on order from amazon.
Also, when bleeding pre event, how much fluid should be bled?
General brake flush question: when going from the golden colored ATE to the golden colored Motul, how do I know when to stop letting fluid out at the caliper? I think I might flush the brakes myself - Have a motive bleeder on order from amazon.
Also, when bleeding pre event, how much fluid should be bled?
Buy a liter of valvoline brake fluid and push it thru the system. Best to mark 1/4 liter lines on the outside of the brake bleeder and catch bottle so you know how much fluid you are pumping in and flushing out. Once you get to the last bit of Valvoline in the Motive tank, have someone begin to refill with Motul. Now watch the last bit of Valvoline start up the clear plastic tube into the brake reservoir followed by the new Motul. Make sure you don't let the brake reservoir run dry. Someone else may want to tell you how to deal with ABS during flush.
Make sure the trunk and complete front of the car is covered with a canvas drop cloth (Harbor Freight). Those Motive bleeders are prone to blow off the clear plastic lines while under pressure. Brake fluid is also paint remover. Also, don't pump in more than 10 or 15 PSI. And precheck tightness of hose clamps at the reservoir bottle and cap. You don't want any leaks. Also when you depressurize the Motive tank, unscrew the pump ... NOT the brake reservoir cap.
06-15-2011 | 10:33 AM
#20
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,762
Likes: 23
side note:
I used Harry's laptimer in my runs on my iphone 4 and I was impressed with the results. Good video with a nice over lay of track position, traction circle and MPH. I also had the qiwi OBD sender which added RPM and throttle position to the overlay.
attached is one frame
I used Harry's laptimer in my runs on my iphone 4 and I was impressed with the results. Good video with a nice over lay of track position, traction circle and MPH. I also had the qiwi OBD sender which added RPM and throttle position to the overlay.
attached is one frame
06-15-2011 | 04:27 PM
#21
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 464
Likes: 1
I was wondering about that... what the proper way to get this done (short of stabbing every hole with a wire hanger end
)?
A blast of air from a compressor is much faster than poking out each hole. Most of us have one in our garage to keep tires inflated and air tools.
Also, does anyone know the thickness of a new pad and the thickness of the backing plate in mm (for future reference)?
)?A blast of air from a compressor is much faster than poking out each hole. Most of us have one in our garage to keep tires inflated and air tools.
Also, does anyone know the thickness of a new pad and the thickness of the backing plate in mm (for future reference)?
