Trailer Floor Covering...
#32
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think I spent $1,500 for the Line-X floor in my 8.5x20 V-Nose Thule. For my son 6x12 V-Nose MX Mission Trailers I when the fast and inexpensive route. I used http://www.bltllc.com/ garage flooring you can get it at Costco in the summer they sell it in 7.5 x 17 rolls ~$185. The floor is held in place by the tie down track. You will have to get creative because your trailer is wider than 7.5 ft. If you look for wider rolls it will be much more expensive. Personally I do not like vinyl flooring in a car hauler the car will pull it up. I thing you would be better off using anti-slip industrial coating. Whatever you us make sure it is anti-slip or you can add sand. When the coatings without anti-slip gets wet it will be like a skating rink.
#33
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Scott,
My trailer had aluminum deckplate - very nice - non slip.
I would not do plastic/rubber tiles. As stated, they expand and are very difficult in the sunlight.
I would look at:
1) Spray in liner (I have no idea if that meets your price target).
2) Find a rubbery paint with 'grit' in it, or that you can add for non-slip.
My trailer had aluminum deckplate - very nice - non slip.
I would not do plastic/rubber tiles. As stated, they expand and are very difficult in the sunlight.
I would look at:
1) Spray in liner (I have no idea if that meets your price target).
2) Find a rubbery paint with 'grit' in it, or that you can add for non-slip.
$1400 or so, area covered, 22'x8', no including the gate surface (that part was standard)
#34
Race Car
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Okay, I am considering just having the trailer manufacturer install aluminum tread plate (ATP) when they build it.
It doesn't rain much in California during the race season. How non-slip is it?
How durable is ATP? How thick should it be with a 3/4" plywood base with 16" O/C joists?
Pros? Cons?
Thanks,
Scott
It doesn't rain much in California during the race season. How non-slip is it?
How durable is ATP? How thick should it be with a 3/4" plywood base with 16" O/C joists?
Pros? Cons?
Thanks,
Scott
#35
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Alum tread plate (diamond plate) is very hard to kneel on, it kills you knees. Also if you do the ramp gate, you will need sunglasses when you walk in the trailer on a sunny day because of the glare and it’s not cheap.
Just do anti-slip industrial coating, you can also cover it later if you want to.
Just do anti-slip industrial coating, you can also cover it later if you want to.
#36
Race Car
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Alum tread plate (diamond plate) is very hard to kneel on, it kills you knees. Also if you do the ramp gate, you will need sunglasses when you walk in the trailer on a sunny day because of the glare and it’s not cheap.
Just do anti-slip industrial coating, you can also cover it later if you want to.
Just do anti-slip industrial coating, you can also cover it later if you want to.
Scott
#38
Drifting
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
We did the floor in one of the trailers with a epoxy grey paint (marine grade I think). It took a few days to dry out completely. It was nice when done, cleaned up easily, wasn't slippery (but it never rains out here). We had another trailer that was coated from the factory. Really though there isn't much reason to coat other than aesthetics. The epoxy floor was pretty but not any more functional than the plywood in our other trailers, other than the ability to wipe oil up. Unless your car leaks a ton of oil who cares? I think the only reason to do it is because you like the way it looks, and it does look nice, but if you are on a budget it doesn't need to be a priority..
#39
Race Director
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
We did the floor in one of the trailers with a epoxy grey paint (marine grade I think). It took a few days to dry out completely. It was nice when done, cleaned up easily, wasn't slippery (but it never rains out here). We had another trailer that was coated from the factory. Really though there isn't much reason to coat other than aesthetics. The epoxy floor was pretty but not any more functional than the plywood in our other trailers, other than the ability to wipe oil up. Unless your car leaks a ton of oil who cares? I think the only reason to do it is because you like the way it looks, and it does look nice, but if you are on a budget it doesn't need to be a priority..
#40
Race Car
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well, once I picked up my trailer I had to make a decision. So I went with the Rustoleum 2-part epoxy in gray for garage floors.
I've included a picture of the results. It looks great and should last for a long time.
Thanks for the all the input!!
Scott
I've included a picture of the results. It looks great and should last for a long time.
Thanks for the all the input!!
Scott
#43
Herr Unmöglich
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Nice thanks for the pics Scott! Due to the weather, mine is still bare ply. This weekend is my first decent tow with it to Oregon Raceway Park. Pulled it to PIR a few weeks back just fine.
I have some more time in June so hoping to do mine then. Sounds like yours worked out well so I might just go the same route. Did you add any traction material or just the straight epoxy? Thinking of adding some if only on the ramp for the wet we frequently have here in the PacNW.
I have some more time in June so hoping to do mine then. Sounds like yours worked out well so I might just go the same route. Did you add any traction material or just the straight epoxy? Thinking of adding some if only on the ramp for the wet we frequently have here in the PacNW.
#44
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Two things about using epoxy:
1. Without anti-slip, it is like ice when even slightly damp. Totally dangerous and unacceptable IMHO.
2. The aluminum oxide anti-slip is also very sharp and can cut you up. How bad? Not sure but it's *probably* ok for this use (not so good in working garages). Another option is the "shark grip" stuff that you can get at paint stores for this purpose. I used that in my garage and you have to use a LOT of it and make sure it's well distributed else you get icy spots when wet. Smooth wet epoxy is crazy dangerous; trust me.
1. Without anti-slip, it is like ice when even slightly damp. Totally dangerous and unacceptable IMHO.
2. The aluminum oxide anti-slip is also very sharp and can cut you up. How bad? Not sure but it's *probably* ok for this use (not so good in working garages). Another option is the "shark grip" stuff that you can get at paint stores for this purpose. I used that in my garage and you have to use a LOT of it and make sure it's well distributed else you get icy spots when wet. Smooth wet epoxy is crazy dangerous; trust me.
#45
Race Car
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Eric (schwank),
I used a package of aluminum oxide in the second coat of epoxy paint. The floor is grippy but does not seem to hard on my skin. I would definitely use it for the whole floor.
One thing I should warn you about. The epoxy paint does not like the silicon caulk that CargoMate uses to seal the gap between the floor and baseboards. Pull that all at before you paint. You might even want to sand that area after you remove the caulk. Make sure get it all and don't leave any pieces behind on the floor either. I painted the baseboards with the epoxy paint. If I had to do it again, I think I would just get some gray enamel color matched to the epoxy paint.
I am not too worried about dampness anyway. I'm in California....
Scott
I used a package of aluminum oxide in the second coat of epoxy paint. The floor is grippy but does not seem to hard on my skin. I would definitely use it for the whole floor.
One thing I should warn you about. The epoxy paint does not like the silicon caulk that CargoMate uses to seal the gap between the floor and baseboards. Pull that all at before you paint. You might even want to sand that area after you remove the caulk. Make sure get it all and don't leave any pieces behind on the floor either. I painted the baseboards with the epoxy paint. If I had to do it again, I think I would just get some gray enamel color matched to the epoxy paint.
I am not too worried about dampness anyway. I'm in California....
Scott
Last edited by winders; 05-27-2011 at 02:33 AM.