To Gusset or not to Gusset?
#31
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I will have to double check our regs. I didn't want to run the other part of the X but for a different reason. However if I have to I will.
#32
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Patrick, that looks great.. I love it. Gussets were a good choice. Welds look pretty legit to me. Depends on the welder setting and the amount of penetration and style.. those beads could be 10xs better than ones that look fat.
As far as the diagonal. It should go to above the drivers head. (If not for rules, then for your safety ) usual regulations here state to above driver and within 12" from the corner of the hoop. But that's here. May not be the case there, but something I would definitely look into.
Once again.. Great progress, and good work. Seems things are coming along quickly.
I can't wait.. to see OUR cars finished
As far as the diagonal. It should go to above the drivers head. (If not for rules, then for your safety ) usual regulations here state to above driver and within 12" from the corner of the hoop. But that's here. May not be the case there, but something I would definitely look into.
Once again.. Great progress, and good work. Seems things are coming along quickly.
I can't wait.. to see OUR cars finished
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#33
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Yes the more I look into it the more I agree now Bruce. It was my call to leave out the other side of the X but this was based on being able to utilise the rear space behind the seats as I don't have a tow vehicle. However I wasn't thinking in terms of a safety aspect and may well have to change it with our regs anyway.
My mistake. We will probably just have to add another bar. No probs, just a pity to lose the space but that is not in question when safety and regs are.
Motor out next week then back to seam weld up the engine bay. Then paint bay and interior, do rewiring and either install new motor or fit GT2 flares and paint outside.
Slow but steady.
My mistake. We will probably just have to add another bar. No probs, just a pity to lose the space but that is not in question when safety and regs are.
Motor out next week then back to seam weld up the engine bay. Then paint bay and interior, do rewiring and either install new motor or fit GT2 flares and paint outside.
Slow but steady.
#34
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Yes the more I look into it the more I agree now Bruce. It was my call to leave out the other side of the X but this was based on being able to utilise the rear space behind the seats as I don't have a tow vehicle. However I wasn't thinking in terms of a safety aspect and may well have to change it with our regs anyway.
My mistake. We will probably just have to add another bar. No probs, just a pity to lose the space but that is not in question when safety and regs are.
Motor out next week then back to seam weld up the engine bay. Then paint bay and interior, do rewiring and either install new motor or fit GT2 flares and paint outside.
Slow but steady.
My mistake. We will probably just have to add another bar. No probs, just a pity to lose the space but that is not in question when safety and regs are.
Motor out next week then back to seam weld up the engine bay. Then paint bay and interior, do rewiring and either install new motor or fit GT2 flares and paint outside.
Slow but steady.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#35
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He looked at doing overhung but it seemed more problematic. Having sat in the car yesterday with the new lower and further back driving position, the floor mounteds felt fine. Losing a bit of height for external view will be a bit different but we'll see when the time comes.
Your car will be a definite one of a kind Bruce. Can't wait to see you drive that beastie!!
Your car will be a definite one of a kind Bruce. Can't wait to see you drive that beastie!!
#36
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He looked at doing overhung but it seemed more problematic. Having sat in the car yesterday with the new lower and further back driving position, the floor mounteds felt fine. Losing a bit of height for external view will be a bit different but we'll see when the time comes.
Your car will be a definite one of a kind Bruce. Can't wait to see you drive that beastie!!
Your car will be a definite one of a kind Bruce. Can't wait to see you drive that beastie!!
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#37
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cxvxcvxc
#38
Burning Brakes
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Not trying to hurt any feelings here. Just posting in the hopes of increased safety. I hope I don't side-track this too much, but I see a common problem in both cages pictured, and I see it in a lot of cages. It has become a pet peeve of mine. Background - not a race car engineer, but I am a structural engineer. The "common problem" is two or more tubes coming together near a node, but not quite at the node. A node is a point in a truss or space frame where multiple members come together. On the best cages I have seen, there have been as many as five tubes coming togther at one point. What that means is that the centerlines of all members coming to the joint intersect at the same point. It takes more time to fabricate and weld, but results in a much stronger cage.
The clearest picture of this is the second picture posted by 67King. The diagonal connects to the main hoop about a foot from the bend. It should interstect exactly at the bend, as should the tube that braces the main hoop back to the rear. If this isn't done, in a wreck you have a point-load from the diagonal pushing against the main-hoop with nothing to resist it, so the main-hoop bends.
The clearest picture of this is the second picture posted by 67King. The diagonal connects to the main hoop about a foot from the bend. It should interstect exactly at the bend, as should the tube that braces the main hoop back to the rear. If this isn't done, in a wreck you have a point-load from the diagonal pushing against the main-hoop with nothing to resist it, so the main-hoop bends.