Need help on which weight distributing hitch to buy.
#17
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Gary,
I have been running the Reese Pro SC unit for 3 years. It works great, BUT you need to be aware of several issues. There actually was a recall on the unit according to my local shop that involved binding/cracking in the trunion head (maybe 2-3 years ago IIRC?).
I was pulling an enclosed unit and had the setup on a Cayenne S (
), and it worked fine except I noticed occasional creaking coming from the bars.
Then one time a bar popped out on a tight turn. I thought it was just unusual load conditions during a tight turn. I kept on motoring with the occasional creaking.
Another time, I get home after pulling and one of the bars is stuck in the head (as in wedged in) with the end sticking out in the breeze not engaged on the friction pad.
Long story short, the geometry needs to be within spec, but this was not the problem.
Running high tongue weights and loads requires stout hitch ***** which often times have long shanks. If the shank of the hitch ball is too long, the weight distribution bars will make contact with the shank during tight turns which can rip the bars right out. I replaced 2 trunion heads before I could figure out WTF was going on.
The answer was to cut off the excess hitch ball shank so that the bars have full clearance. Since cutting the shank, no more creaking and flawless performance.
Even if you don't cut the shank, you'll be OK... until you get everything 'just right' for the bars to make contact and then you're toast.
Another thing, too, the friction pad plates don't like thick necked trailers, so I had to custom fab some plates to mount to my Featherlite.
I have been running the Reese Pro SC unit for 3 years. It works great, BUT you need to be aware of several issues. There actually was a recall on the unit according to my local shop that involved binding/cracking in the trunion head (maybe 2-3 years ago IIRC?).
I was pulling an enclosed unit and had the setup on a Cayenne S (
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
Then one time a bar popped out on a tight turn. I thought it was just unusual load conditions during a tight turn. I kept on motoring with the occasional creaking.
Another time, I get home after pulling and one of the bars is stuck in the head (as in wedged in) with the end sticking out in the breeze not engaged on the friction pad.
Long story short, the geometry needs to be within spec, but this was not the problem.
Running high tongue weights and loads requires stout hitch ***** which often times have long shanks. If the shank of the hitch ball is too long, the weight distribution bars will make contact with the shank during tight turns which can rip the bars right out. I replaced 2 trunion heads before I could figure out WTF was going on.
The answer was to cut off the excess hitch ball shank so that the bars have full clearance. Since cutting the shank, no more creaking and flawless performance.
Even if you don't cut the shank, you'll be OK... until you get everything 'just right' for the bars to make contact and then you're toast.
Another thing, too, the friction pad plates don't like thick necked trailers, so I had to custom fab some plates to mount to my Featherlite.
#18
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I tow a heavy 28' enclosed trailer (weighs roughly 9,000 pounds when loaded) behind my 2005 GMC Yukon XL 2500 which has a relatively short wheelbase. Since I have the short wheelbase, the sway control is very important. I use the equalizer hitch and it has worked very well for me. However, I looked at the pictures of the Reese trunnion hitch and it looks like it is basically the same design as the equalizer hitch.
The reason I bought the equalizer hitch three or four years ago rather than one of the Reese units is that: 1) I don't think Reese offered the trunnion style hitch back when I was buying mine, and 2) I didn't like the look of the Reese torsion bar style hitches that use the chains and cams because I would much rather use friction to dampen the sway vs bending a torsion bar spring.
Question -> Does anyone happen to know when Reese started manufacturing their trunnion style hitch? If it wasn't available 3 or 4 years ago, that explains why I didn't see it back then.
If I were buying another hitch today, I would certainly consider the new Reese trunnion style hitch because I do like the look of the friction material on the spring bar hangers. The equalizer uses "steel on steel" to create the friction at the spring bar hangers, therefore, the spring bar hanger brackets are wear items that need to be replaced periodically. In addition, the equalizer hitch also uses steel on steel to create friction at the hitch pivot points for the spring bars but the Reese hitch does not. However, I am not sure the Reese trunnion hitch needs the additional friction at the hitch pivot points because it probably generates enough friction with the friction material on the spring bar hangers.
Jeff
The reason I bought the equalizer hitch three or four years ago rather than one of the Reese units is that: 1) I don't think Reese offered the trunnion style hitch back when I was buying mine, and 2) I didn't like the look of the Reese torsion bar style hitches that use the chains and cams because I would much rather use friction to dampen the sway vs bending a torsion bar spring.
Question -> Does anyone happen to know when Reese started manufacturing their trunnion style hitch? If it wasn't available 3 or 4 years ago, that explains why I didn't see it back then.
If I were buying another hitch today, I would certainly consider the new Reese trunnion style hitch because I do like the look of the friction material on the spring bar hangers. The equalizer uses "steel on steel" to create the friction at the spring bar hangers, therefore, the spring bar hanger brackets are wear items that need to be replaced periodically. In addition, the equalizer hitch also uses steel on steel to create friction at the hitch pivot points for the spring bars but the Reese hitch does not. However, I am not sure the Reese trunnion hitch needs the additional friction at the hitch pivot points because it probably generates enough friction with the friction material on the spring bar hangers.
Jeff
#21
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I bought this one back in 2009. I use it on my 24ft enclosed. It is made by equalizer, but is their cheaper model. Not sure the "Fastway" name is new as both the "equalizer" and E2 come from progress Mfg in Provo, Ut. http://www.fastwaytrailer.com/e2/
I use the round bar style 10,000 lbs and have been very happy with it.
here is a link to some real prics.
http://www.rvpartscountry.com/Equal-i-zer_c_991.html
I use the round bar style 10,000 lbs and have been very happy with it.
here is a link to some real prics.
http://www.rvpartscountry.com/Equal-i-zer_c_991.html
#22
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I've been in the sway control hitch business for 14+ years.
The Equal-i-zer and Reese Dual Cam both work with friction but in different ways.
The EQ uses the tongue weight to apply a friction force between the weight distribution bars and the brackets. There is also some friction points in the hitch head.
The RDC uses the cams, loaded with the tongue weight, but the cams are also held in place with friction.
I doubt you would notice much difference between the two if they are properly installed and you monitor the tongue weight.
The Equal-i-zer and Reese Dual Cam both work with friction but in different ways.
The EQ uses the tongue weight to apply a friction force between the weight distribution bars and the brackets. There is also some friction points in the hitch head.
The RDC uses the cams, loaded with the tongue weight, but the cams are also held in place with friction.
I doubt you would notice much difference between the two if they are properly installed and you monitor the tongue weight.
#23
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Just a quick bump as I found this thread in a search today while looking for some info.
Just ordered a 24' enclosed steel trailer, I figure weight will be somewhere around 7500ish loaded. Towing vehicle is a 2005 Excursion PSD.
I take from this thread that the competing hitches are:
Equal-i-zer:
http://www.rvpartscountry.com/4Point...l-i-zer10000lb.
VS
Reese:
http://www.reese-hitches.com/product...itch_Bar,67509
PLUS
http://www.reese-hitches.com/product..._Control,26102
Is that correct? I want a no-hassle setup. Towing around the PacNW we get high winds, big trucks, and mountain passes.
Just ordered a 24' enclosed steel trailer, I figure weight will be somewhere around 7500ish loaded. Towing vehicle is a 2005 Excursion PSD.
I take from this thread that the competing hitches are:
Equal-i-zer:
http://www.rvpartscountry.com/4Point...l-i-zer10000lb.
VS
Reese:
http://www.reese-hitches.com/product...itch_Bar,67509
PLUS
http://www.reese-hitches.com/product..._Control,26102
Is that correct? I want a no-hassle setup. Towing around the PacNW we get high winds, big trucks, and mountain passes.
#24
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With that weight and tow vehicle you may want to look at a sway eliminating hitch rather than the sway damping hitches you've listed.
I've been in the "sway control" business for 14+ years. The two listed are the best "conventional" hitches.
The top performing hitch for safety and control is http://www.propridehitch.com/
-
I've been in the "sway control" business for 14+ years. The two listed are the best "conventional" hitches.
The top performing hitch for safety and control is http://www.propridehitch.com/
-
#25
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So basically the RDC-800 shown here?
http://www.propridehitch.com/product...y-Control.html
Or are you referring to the $2K+ mega-hitch? This is a bit beyond my pocketbook at the moment...
http://www.propridehitch.com/product...ol-Hitch-.html
Thanks Sean! Michigan born and raised as well... MSU Spartan alum.
http://www.propridehitch.com/product...y-Control.html
Or are you referring to the $2K+ mega-hitch? This is a bit beyond my pocketbook at the moment...
http://www.propridehitch.com/product...ol-Hitch-.html
Thanks Sean! Michigan born and raised as well... MSU Spartan alum.
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#28
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My rig is a 2004 GMC 3500 DRW, Reese Class V hitch and Dual Cam weight distributing/sway control, pulling 24 ft enclosed trailer. Best setup I've ever had. I no longer feel a semi at the trailer because there's no sway at all. And after the initial setup, no adjustments, just hitch and go. I like it a lot.
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I've been using the Reese Straight Line system for 4 years now and love it.. I think I have the 10,000LB Gross Trailer Weight model.. 24' Thule trailer, car, tools, and stuff weighs about 7K IIRC.
#30
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Eric, I think you will be fine with an E2 like I have. I tow my 24ft enclosed that I figure is 7500lbs behind a 2500 dodge. It is rock solid even over 7000 or 8000 ft mountain passes. On simple 2 lane roads or 4 lane hwy.