ninjabones

Had to sacrifice one of the hard brake lines (not sure, but looks like copper) when I replaced my front calipers this weekend (the lines that run directly from the caliper to the strut horseshoe clip mount). It appears to be 1/4" tube, about 12" in length (with two bends), and the fittings appear to be M10 x 1.0 thread pitch with bubble flares.

Doesn't look like this peice is available in the parts catalogue. I'd rather not have to invest in a bubble flare tool and go through the hastle of fabricating new lines. Anyone know of a source for pre-cut brake line with the appropriate fittings already placed? Also please confirm that I have the sizes correct. Thanks.

Bill Verburg

http://classic tube

Fedhill

Techna-fit

Plews-Edelman

TheOtherEric

Autozone stocks the brake line you need for like $5.

p.s. and of course, the lines are already flared, with fittings attached. All you need to do is bend them, and they have a tube bender for like $20 if you're so inclined.

ninjabones

thanks guys... the Napa around the corner says that they have what I need. I'll check on my my way home from work today.

DanR

replaced the fron calipers like for like or went bigger?

JoeMag

yes, they are 10x1 threads. I was not to impressed with the bubble flares of local parts stores since we're screwing these things into mostly aluminum/brass fittings and if you gouge with bad flare, the fitting will cost you lots more than the line. example that front junction that goes from inside to outside the car is like $50. not sure how big of a rush you're in but you could send that broken line to classic tube in NY and they'll make one for about $25.

bauerjab

Awhile ago I had to replace solid lines. I ended up getting factory lines from Porsche. I tried ones from NAPA first. They were close, but not good enough. They leaked unless they were tightened beyond recognition.

I can't tell from your original post if you were saying that you could not get them from Porsche.

And what is it with the green cars (see two previous posts). Is that the new color of 2011?

ninjabones

Thanks Bill and Joe for the Classic Tube lead. I spoke with Tim at Classic Tube and he said he could fabricate for me at about $25 with 1 week turnaround.

I'd prefer to order directly from porsche. I couldn't find a part number. if you have the info for a 993, please let me know

Dan, be afraid.... be very afraid...





I got more than 100 lbs out of the car this weekend with the new headers and stripping the interior... only question now is whether I say f*&k it and run in GT4S or stay in H (but run with 250 lbs of ballast)

PorscheDoc

The lines should be available from Porsche. For the 95 993? Front, rear, left, right?

Front Right: 993.355.584.01
Front Left: 993.355.581.01

Illustration 604-10 in PET.

Matt Romanowski

Go to autozone and buy the nice e-coat lines they have. I've never had a problem with how they thread in and the coating is seriosly hard and resistant to everything.

If you make them yourself, there is only one tool to do flairs. http://www.amazon.com/MasterCool-Uni.../dp/B00063YR2I

ninjabones

Thanks for the part numbers... actually confirmed that they were available at the local porsche dealer (approx $23 each).

And, to prevent this from happening again... is it recommended to use antiseize on the threads?

DanR

or use a closed wrench rather than a BFH

PorscheDoc

For some reason, brake lines on a 993 are notoriously difficult to remove without stripping the heads. I don't know what it is, but even with a flare wrench, you will easily strip the heads. It is like the head size isn't correct for any size wrench, either metric or standard. I have had to take off quite a few lines with visegrips. Actually have a set of rear lines sitting on my workbench to replace on a 993, I just haven't figured out how the heck to get the lines loose from the rear distribution block. So far heat and Kroil haven't touched it.

ninjabones

Agreed... after cutting the lines and removing the calipers, it took several applications of penetrating fluid, direct heat, and then vice grips with serious leverage to remove the old lines (but the fittings were completely toast by then).

kurt M

If the lines are not going to be reused cut the line off the fitting with side cuts and use a 6 point socket to remove. Heat the hell out of the base metal and shoot some rust buster fluid into the fitting between the threads and base metal and between the tube and fitting. Give it a go and if still stuck let things cool, spray more in and on and heat again before trying. The goal is to get heat into the base metal rather than the fitting. If you want to to keep the tubing do the same heat cycling but use a flare wrench with some added help. Put the flare wrench on the fitting and give it a try. If it feels like it is just going to round off the fitting STOP before you bugger it up. With the wrench on the fitting take a set of vicegrips and clamp down around the end of the flair wrench tight as hell. This will compress the flare wrench down onto the fitting taking up slack and helping to prevent the wrench from bending open. Trust me it sounds backyard but it works. Clamping the vicegrip directly onto the fittng works less well. the fitting is a tube also and hard compression on 2 opp sides just deforms it into an oval making it bind up even more. It chews up the fitting too.