Tried Hoosier slicks this weekend for 1st time.
#1
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265x645x18 f and 285 r R80 all round.
I was very impressed. They seemed to come up to heat pretty quickly. I'd say within a couple of laps on a short twisty track just about did it. My previous experience with slicks is limited. Mostly I have run on R888s and NT01s. I have also used both R6 & A6 which are very good.
On the day I had some pretty poor understeer, push, scrubbing when first riding around on the Nittos. I am not entirely sure why, but I suspect that as we had to knock a decent amount of caster out just to gain clearance for the taller slicks, that this may have upset the geometry. I know that if you adjust camber, you have to re set toe. How about with caster. Does that also effect toe?
Apart from being able to turn in and corner better, I was most impressed at how much deeper I could go in under brakes. Especially without ABS the impression of increased modulation and feel was wonderful. I was only able to try these at the end of the day's event as that was on R spec only. I wanted to stay out there for a lot longer to get more practice in, but as I was concentrating and going faster each lap, I missed a braking point at the end of the straight when watching a guy in a 911 spin in front of me...so I flat spotted one of the fronts. D'oh!! Gotta hate doing that to a brand new tyre.
I have to really think about putting the old factory abs unit into this car or not. Some say it's better to leave them out and I am getting more attuned to life without abs...but it's damned expensive and frustrating when flatting tyres.
Managed to have a bit of fun with one of the quick EVOs. Saw him coming down the straight so I let him pass and we had a few quick laps around this short but quite demanding little track 2.5 hours south of Sydney. This was just after the first two laps warmup and then into it. I kept turning in using the R spec points and found that not only was it ducking now too early, but in parts I wasn't using the whole track as there was much more grip. Got better later on. Notice how I can close way up on him under brakes. To the point where I lose momentum waiting for him and then the 4wd rocket takes off and I get left behind. Good matchup all the same.![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xSnau43PiE
I was very impressed. They seemed to come up to heat pretty quickly. I'd say within a couple of laps on a short twisty track just about did it. My previous experience with slicks is limited. Mostly I have run on R888s and NT01s. I have also used both R6 & A6 which are very good.
On the day I had some pretty poor understeer, push, scrubbing when first riding around on the Nittos. I am not entirely sure why, but I suspect that as we had to knock a decent amount of caster out just to gain clearance for the taller slicks, that this may have upset the geometry. I know that if you adjust camber, you have to re set toe. How about with caster. Does that also effect toe?
Apart from being able to turn in and corner better, I was most impressed at how much deeper I could go in under brakes. Especially without ABS the impression of increased modulation and feel was wonderful. I was only able to try these at the end of the day's event as that was on R spec only. I wanted to stay out there for a lot longer to get more practice in, but as I was concentrating and going faster each lap, I missed a braking point at the end of the straight when watching a guy in a 911 spin in front of me...so I flat spotted one of the fronts. D'oh!! Gotta hate doing that to a brand new tyre.
I have to really think about putting the old factory abs unit into this car or not. Some say it's better to leave them out and I am getting more attuned to life without abs...but it's damned expensive and frustrating when flatting tyres.
Managed to have a bit of fun with one of the quick EVOs. Saw him coming down the straight so I let him pass and we had a few quick laps around this short but quite demanding little track 2.5 hours south of Sydney. This was just after the first two laps warmup and then into it. I kept turning in using the R spec points and found that not only was it ducking now too early, but in parts I wasn't using the whole track as there was much more grip. Got better later on. Notice how I can close way up on him under brakes. To the point where I lose momentum waiting for him and then the 4wd rocket takes off and I get left behind. Good matchup all the same.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xSnau43PiE
#2
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Nice runs! I run a 1984 944Cup car, which is NA and no ABS, so definitely slower than yours. Early on I was flatspotting tires when learning to drive on the Hoosier R6's. But I've been learning to brake a bit softer to better manage weight transfer, and use more trail braking to enter a corner a bit faster. Lately been locking up a lot less.
I think you did a great job keeping up with the Evo. Although it may have looked like closing under braking, remember that as speed decreases, "timed space" between two cars decreases. IMHO, some of the "closing" was simply getting closer due to decreasing speeds.
I think you did a great job keeping up with the Evo. Although it may have looked like closing under braking, remember that as speed decreases, "timed space" between two cars decreases. IMHO, some of the "closing" was simply getting closer due to decreasing speeds.
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Great driving on what appears to be a really fun track. What hot temps did you shoot for on your new Hoosier's?
PS: I kept waiting for the polo ponies to come cantering by......
PS: I kept waiting for the polo ponies to come cantering by......
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Nice runs! I run a 1984 944Cup car, which is NA and no ABS, so definitely slower than yours. Early on I was flatspotting tires when learning to drive on the Hoosier R6's. But I've been learning to brake a bit softer to better manage weight transfer, and use more trail braking to enter a corner a bit faster. Lately been locking up a lot less.
I think you did a great job keeping up with the Evo. Although it may have looked like closing under braking, remember that as speed decreases, "timed space" between two cars decreases. IMHO, some of the "closing" was simply getting closer due to decreasing speeds.![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
I think you did a great job keeping up with the Evo. Although it may have looked like closing under braking, remember that as speed decreases, "timed space" between two cars decreases. IMHO, some of the "closing" was simply getting closer due to decreasing speeds.
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
You're not far off on the Pony reference. This is a very rural area so animals are nearby. Wouldn't be surprised to see a Kangaroo hop across the track oneday.
Meh, just pack your car and come on down. Driving on the correct side of the road should be fun for you.
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Click on GT in the pink left margin, then "Set Up Information" under the lising of tire sizes....
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Found that info on Bob Woodman's tire site. Thanks for that clarification JRG. That makes much more sense.
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My car is about 3000lbs with me in it. Front engined. In general, I need them to get to heat quickly for short sprint events (3-4 hotlaps) so I'm thinking starting at about 25psi cold.
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Reminder to me to call Bob Woodman tires tomorrow regarding their Hoosier slick pressure recommendations. Almost positive that's copied in error from their A6/R6 page....
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Yes, generally what they do is we run a 15 min session in the morning to determine the speed groups. If there's say 55 cars entered on that day that can take an hour and a bit to get through. Then we go out in speed groups for 1 outlap, 3-4 sprint laps, 1 cooldown. Not sure quite how long they hold heat/pressure but I get what you're saying. I would imagine based on the link you posted for a 2650lb car and 30psi, then mine would be best at about 32psi +/- but temps will help determine this. Can't wait to try these again. Have a full day booked in 2 weeks. Just have to repair the car after crashing it on the way home...but that's another story...
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Great driving Patrick, love the track!
Makes me want go see my relatives "down under". Maybe do a little driving while I'm there especially as I prefer shifting with my left
. When I was last home I wish there had been time for a drive at Brand's.
Makes me want go see my relatives "down under". Maybe do a little driving while I'm there especially as I prefer shifting with my left
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Lower starting air pressure will actual generate heat in the tire more quickly than higher pressures. Think of the air as a heat sink for the heat that is generated by the tire's contact with the road. More air absorbs more heat and causes the tire to heat more slowly.
We usually associate high pressures with high heat, but that association is really about the change in pressures from cold to hot. A hot tire will heat the air and cause it to expand, thus showing a larger change in air pressure during the length of the run.
For such a short run, you will need to find a balance between hitting the optimal temperature range with hitting the optimal pressure range. The former will impact mechanical grip and make the tire as sticky as possible, the latter will impact grip by maximizing the tire contact patch and to some extent impact your spring rates.
A one hour break between sessions is not very long and I think you'll be able to carry residual heat from that session. I would try to get to 30-31 hot in that session or a touch over, then bleed down to your desired pressure immediately when you get off. Then don't touch tem and race at that pressure. Then check again after the race and see if it worked.
Good luck!
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Personally I like having my strongest arm on the wheel...just in case.
Remember that heat and pressure are two different things.
Lower starting air pressure will actual generate heat in the tire more quickly than higher pressures. Think of the air as a heat sink for the heat that is generated by the tire's contact with the road. More air absorbs more heat and causes the tire to heat more slowly.
We usually associate high pressures with high heat, but that association is really about the change in pressures from cold to hot. A hot tire will heat the air and cause it to expand, thus showing a larger change in air pressure during the length of the run.
For such a short run, you will need to find a balance between hitting the optimal temperature range with hitting the optimal pressure range. The former will impact mechanical grip and make the tire as sticky as possible, the latter will impact grip by maximizing the tire contact patch and to some extent impact your spring rates.
A one hour break between sessions is not very long and I think you'll be able to carry residual heat from that session. I would try to get to 30-31 hot in that session or a touch over, then bleed down to your desired pressure immediately when you get off. Then don't touch tem and race at that pressure. Then check again after the race and see if it worked.
Good luck!
Lower starting air pressure will actual generate heat in the tire more quickly than higher pressures. Think of the air as a heat sink for the heat that is generated by the tire's contact with the road. More air absorbs more heat and causes the tire to heat more slowly.
We usually associate high pressures with high heat, but that association is really about the change in pressures from cold to hot. A hot tire will heat the air and cause it to expand, thus showing a larger change in air pressure during the length of the run.
For such a short run, you will need to find a balance between hitting the optimal temperature range with hitting the optimal pressure range. The former will impact mechanical grip and make the tire as sticky as possible, the latter will impact grip by maximizing the tire contact patch and to some extent impact your spring rates.
A one hour break between sessions is not very long and I think you'll be able to carry residual heat from that session. I would try to get to 30-31 hot in that session or a touch over, then bleed down to your desired pressure immediately when you get off. Then don't touch tem and race at that pressure. Then check again after the race and see if it worked.
Good luck!
Can't wait to get back out there on these tyres....at a lower hot psi than I was running just to see the difference.