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Old 09-26-2010, 08:53 PM
  #31  
Crazy Canuck
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Originally Posted by va122
If you've upgraded the toe links nothing really. You can go the monoball route
Hmmmm very interesting. I have upgraded the toe links already.
Old 09-26-2010, 09:30 PM
  #32  
Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
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Originally Posted by fatbillybob
My problem is I don't know how to adjust them.
While VR's reply is actually a good one,.......I'd offer that it would be irresponsible on a vendor's part not to provide setup information and good beginning shock settings based on the spring package so that its very close right out of the box.

Speaking only for myself, we do include this critical data to assure that its close enough to go drive and re-learn the car's capabilities once again.

Some driver coaching will certainly help them dialed in just perfectly, tho.
Old 09-26-2010, 09:48 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
While VR's reply is actually a good one,.......I'd offer that it would be irresponsible on a vendor's part not to provide setup information and good beginning shock settings based on the spring package so that its very close right out of the box.

Speaking only for myself, we do include this critical data to assure that its close enough to go drive and re-learn the car's capabilities once again.

Some driver coaching will certainly help them dialed in just perfectly, tho.
That's good.

PM me a quote. I'm thinking 800/1000 springs.
Old 09-26-2010, 10:02 PM
  #34  
Veloce Raptor
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
While VR's reply is actually a good one,.......I'd offer that it would be irresponsible on a vendor's part not to provide setup information and good beginning shock settings based on the spring package so that its very close right out of the box.

Speaking only for myself, we do include this critical data to assure that its close enough to go drive and re-learn the car's capabilities once again.

Some driver coaching will certainly help them dialed in just perfectly, tho.


All true. the vendors who sell these systems to road racers (i.e., the non-ricer crowd) know their business, and can generally get you a 70%-80% solution out of the box. Use their expertise.









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Old 09-26-2010, 10:47 PM
  #35  
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So realistically for most weekend warriors, the Clubsports would be quite sufficient compared to the Motorsports versions?

Is there any difference to the valving or construction between the 2?
Old 09-26-2010, 10:51 PM
  #36  
mooty
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Originally Posted by 333pg333
So realistically for most weekend warriors, the Clubsports would be quite sufficient compared to the Motorsports versions?
yes, way more than adequate; unless you planning on dialing the the shocks all weekend and never get to drive it.

Originally Posted by 333pg333
Is there any difference to the valving or construction between the 2?
the new 14 click CS version is very close to motorsport 2 way.
there are still differences, but so is the $$$
imo, if you want motorsport, got 3 or 4 ways.
if you plan to get 2 way, CS is the one to get.
Old 09-27-2010, 12:34 AM
  #37  
va122
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I have the tripples and I wouldn't do it again, too complicated. Once you get it right its heaven but doesn't justify the increased price.
Old 09-27-2010, 12:04 PM
  #38  
Larry Herman
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Originally Posted by va122
I have the tripples and I wouldn't do it again, too complicated. Once you get it right its heaven but doesn't justify the increased price.
Funny, I had triples on my RSA and I wouldn't go any other way. The low speed compression was too important not to have and proper adjustment solved some braking problems that I was experiencing on some tracks.
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Old 09-27-2010, 05:33 PM
  #39  
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too smart for me! What kind of braking problems were you experience and what did you adjust to solve?
Old 09-27-2010, 07:25 PM
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Larry Herman
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I was having problems getting into the ABS during initial application of the brakes at high speeds (over 120 mph) in downhill braking zones. The car was not transferring weight fast enough to get sufficient pressure on the front tires. Increasing the low speed compression in the front made the weight transfer quicker and the problem went away.

Funny that about a year after I sold the car it's current owner called me saying that he was having ABS problems. I asked him about the shock settings and he admitted that he changed them. As soon as he put them back, all was right again.
Old 09-27-2010, 07:58 PM
  #41  
va122
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wow cool! i use the low speed to control body roll and weight transfer. Is that right? What else do you use low for?
Old 09-27-2010, 09:35 PM
  #42  
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It is absolutely used to control the speed of weight transfer, and through somewhat independent control of the high speed compression of the suspension, and the low speed compression of the body you can help tune the car more than with just 2 way shocks. For example if the track has lots of bumps that the suspension crashes over, I would soften the high speed compression to help absorb some of the impacts, but then stiffen the low speed compression to try and maintain body control.

It really requires a lot of thought as to what the car is doing (or not doing), and how time management of weight transfer will affect the pressure of the tires on the track (grip), and then relate that to what the car is doing and how the weight is shifting under braking, turn in, or acceleration.
Old 09-27-2010, 09:46 PM
  #43  
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Ok so lets say I wanted to dial out some understeer, would you increase the low or high speed in the rear? Thanks for all your help, I'm still learning. Lex gave me settings and I haven't touched them for fear of screwing my car up.
Old 09-27-2010, 09:49 PM
  #44  
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I'm not smart enough for three ways....shocks or girls. I would just fuck it up.

Old 09-27-2010, 10:05 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by va122
Ok so lets say I wanted to dial out some understeer, would you increase the low or high speed in the rear? Thanks for all your help, I'm still learning. Lex gave me settings and I haven't touched them for fear of screwing my car up.
I would preface things by saying that Lex knows much more that I ever will about these shocks, so take my advice for what it is worth.

To answer your question, you first need to assess where and when the car is understeering, and that will determine what you want to change in order to fix it. For example if it understeers on corner entry you can tighten the rebound on the rear shocks to help get the back to rotate more as you turn in. If it understeers in mid-corner, that is more of a balance problem that should first be addressed by adjusting the sway bars. You know, books have been written about this stuff.


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