oil weight for 944 race / track only car - what do you guys use ?
#1
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oil weight for 944 race / track only car - what do you guys use ?
This topic has probably came up before, sorry I did not do a search first but....
What weight oils are you 944'ers running in your track only cars. (note, TRACK ONLY, AKA no street driving).
I've been using 20w50 (plain old dino castrol oil) but have been contemplating using stright 30 or 50 weight.
The whole 'oil' discussion can turn into a 20 page thread but i've seen many discussions / analysis's that state multi grades are not as good as streight weights because the polymers used to make it multi viscious is essentially "foreign matter" in the oil. Reason the multi grades are used in street cars is to deal with the wide range of operating temps. Thinking if i am only running my car in the warmer months, thicker oil would yield better protection ?
Just replaced my rod bearings last night and tonight will put the pan back on so perfect time to switch oil weight.
Tom
What weight oils are you 944'ers running in your track only cars. (note, TRACK ONLY, AKA no street driving).
I've been using 20w50 (plain old dino castrol oil) but have been contemplating using stright 30 or 50 weight.
The whole 'oil' discussion can turn into a 20 page thread but i've seen many discussions / analysis's that state multi grades are not as good as streight weights because the polymers used to make it multi viscious is essentially "foreign matter" in the oil. Reason the multi grades are used in street cars is to deal with the wide range of operating temps. Thinking if i am only running my car in the warmer months, thicker oil would yield better protection ?
Just replaced my rod bearings last night and tonight will put the pan back on so perfect time to switch oil weight.
Tom
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AFAIK, all of us are using Mobil 1 15-50, and we overfill slightly and keep a very close eye on the level.
However, I am speaking for Turbos and S2's, so not sure if it's different.
However, I am speaking for Turbos and S2's, so not sure if it's different.
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I wouldn't touch M1 unless it was definitely one of their new ones which they were sort of forced to add back the ZDDP they 'snuck' out of it over time. Still not sure what level of detergents they have in these ones either? There are plenty of better oils IMHO. We use a 25w/60 for the track down here.
Porsche factory cars were using a straight 50w Shell even though they had M1 emblazoned all over their cars. Gee, whodathunk advertising could sneak in under everyone's guards with Porsche....
btw, if you want the definitive oil thread that deals with cars of our vintage a.k.a. Flat tappet engines; here you go. Forget the 20 page thread lol, but you can glean the good points.
http://tiny.cc/zt5f9
Porsche factory cars were using a straight 50w Shell even though they had M1 emblazoned all over their cars. Gee, whodathunk advertising could sneak in under everyone's guards with Porsche....
btw, if you want the definitive oil thread that deals with cars of our vintage a.k.a. Flat tappet engines; here you go. Forget the 20 page thread lol, but you can glean the good points.
http://tiny.cc/zt5f9
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I once used Amsoil 20-50 (discontinued), then Amsoil 15-50, but my lifters were talking to me, even when new.
I now use Motul 15-50. No more noise.
Never had any problems with any of these oils.
c.
I now use Motul 15-50. No more noise.
Never had any problems with any of these oils.
c.
#12
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This topic has probably came up before, sorry I did not do a search first but....
What weight oils are you 944'ers running in your track only cars. (note, TRACK ONLY, AKA no street driving).
I've been using 20w50 (plain old dino castrol oil) but have been contemplating using stright 30 or 50 weight.
The whole 'oil' discussion can turn into a 20 page thread but i've seen many discussions / analysis's that state multi grades are not as good as streight weights because the polymers used to make it multi viscious is essentially "foreign matter" in the oil. Reason the multi grades are used in street cars is to deal with the wide range of operating temps. Thinking if i am only running my car in the warmer months, thicker oil would yield better protection ?
Just replaced my rod bearings last night and tonight will put the pan back on so perfect time to switch oil weight.
Tom
What weight oils are you 944'ers running in your track only cars. (note, TRACK ONLY, AKA no street driving).
I've been using 20w50 (plain old dino castrol oil) but have been contemplating using stright 30 or 50 weight.
The whole 'oil' discussion can turn into a 20 page thread but i've seen many discussions / analysis's that state multi grades are not as good as streight weights because the polymers used to make it multi viscious is essentially "foreign matter" in the oil. Reason the multi grades are used in street cars is to deal with the wide range of operating temps. Thinking if i am only running my car in the warmer months, thicker oil would yield better protection ?
Just replaced my rod bearings last night and tonight will put the pan back on so perfect time to switch oil weight.
Tom
I use 20w50 AMSOIL Series 2000 Raicing oil. Expensive stuff, but very solid. AMSOIL changed their oil a bit it is now sold under the "Dominator" name and is rated as 15w50.
I would not run a straight weight oil in a 944 track car. One reason is first session of the moring. Even idling it takes a long time to build oil temp. So I end up running the first 2-3 laps at 100F oil most days. Since it is hard to bogg around the track even on a warm up lap at sub 3000 rpm I rather have the muilti weight oil to keep things working at these conditions as well as full bore 260F oil temps and 6000 rpm. I change my oil every 2-4 events depending on how much track time and abient air temps.
I used to run Mobil 1 about 10 years ago. However I noticed that even with 15w50 it would lose oil pressure hot after 15 minutes on track. AMSOIL however maintained at least 0.5 bar more oil pressure during hard running. Since most races are 30-40 minutes. Losing 0.5 bar after 15 min is not good.
I do on occasion get lifter tick. Strangly it tends to happen on the second start after sitting. First start to load the car on the trailer is fine. Then next mornign it ticks on off load. No big deal really as after a bit of warming up the noize is gone.
As for fill level. I keep the oil at full never over and I check it before each session. Over the years I have had motors that burned a little oil or leaked a bit. Never any perfect motors, but some could last a weekend without adding oil.
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I use 20w50 AMSOIL Series 2000 Raicing oil. Expensive stuff, but very solid. AMSOIL changed their oil a bit it is now sold under the "Dominator" name and is rated as 15w50.
I used to run Mobil 1 about 10 years ago. However I noticed that even with 15w50 it would lose oil pressure hot after 15 minutes on track. AMSOIL however maintained at least 0.5 bar more oil pressure during hard running. Since most races are 30-40 minutes. Losing 0.5 bar after 15 min is not good.
I do on occasion get lifter tick. Strangly it tends to happen on the second start after sitting. First start to load the car on the trailer is fine. Then next mornign it ticks on off load. No big deal really as after a bit of warming up the noize is gone.
As for fill level. I keep the oil at full never over and I check it before each session. Over the years I have had motors that burned a little oil or leaked a bit. Never any perfect motors, but some could last a weekend without adding oil.
I used to run Mobil 1 about 10 years ago. However I noticed that even with 15w50 it would lose oil pressure hot after 15 minutes on track. AMSOIL however maintained at least 0.5 bar more oil pressure during hard running. Since most races are 30-40 minutes. Losing 0.5 bar after 15 min is not good.
I do on occasion get lifter tick. Strangly it tends to happen on the second start after sitting. First start to load the car on the trailer is fine. Then next mornign it ticks on off load. No big deal really as after a bit of warming up the noize is gone.
As for fill level. I keep the oil at full never over and I check it before each session. Over the years I have had motors that burned a little oil or leaked a bit. Never any perfect motors, but some could last a weekend without adding oil.
c.