Hi All-
I searched the forums and have come up empty.

I have done a significant amount of work on the front end of my car this winter(turbo tie rods, camber plates, replaced bushings with spherical bearings-including rear banana arms) and need to re-do the camber and toe before first test and tune of the year.

I am running 17" wheels as well. 1988-911 car, and tire size is 225/45R17 on front and 255/40R17 on rear. Where should I start with camber and toe? Front? Rear?
Any advice, help would be really appreciated.

Hunter

 

Max negative camber in all four corners... take what you can get. Max front caster.

Toe is a little more complicated and everybody has their own preference. It is pretty standard to run a tiny amount of toe IN in the back (maybe 1/16?), but I run zero. For the front, for somebody who races in a dedicated race car, I would recommend either zero toe or maybe a slight amount (again maybe 1/16?) of toe OUT. Toe IN mainly improves stability in a straight line but hurts turn-in. Turn-in improves as you approach zero and go beyond to toe OUT but it's overall a more difficult (but better handling) car to drive.

I currently run zero front toe and have no complaints but I plan to use a little front toe out for this season.

 

Astroman:

Would you write a short review on your WEVO G50 shifter - does the stock leather boot not fit - how much shorter throw - how much more positive engagement feel....

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And to keep on topic, my car with slight toe-out up front added positive and accurate turn-in.

Thanks.

 

I haven't actually used the shifter yet and won't until Atlanta in March. But, it feels really nice shifting through the gates with the car up on jack-stands. The throw is indeed shorter but it's tough to quantify just how much. I didn't try the leather boot but I'm sure you could figure something out. Remind me and I'll send you a PM after Atlanta.

Back OT: Good to know about the front toe out. I'm looking forward to trying it out!

 

Thanks Jack.

Should I do all this with my 'road' wheels and tires on?
or do it with my race wheels and tires?
Does it matter?
My 'road' tires(which are also my 'wets') are a bit taller because of the tread,
whereas I am running BFG R-1's on my race wheels and smaller overall diameter.

Also, when I get to my first track day, if I am not happy with handling where do I start?
Last year, I was running consistent 2:16 and did a PB of 2:15:10 at VIR, and I am a really good with the data analysis as well with my Traqmate. So, if its a warm day, I should be able to get some decent laps in and make adjustments and compare them with the data acq.

What do I change to start with? Less Camber? Or same camber and change toe?
Again, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
And if there are any websites, books out there about this, please point me there. thanks.
Hunter

 

No problem.

First, the tires you use to set the alignment should not matter unless one of your wheels is bent.

I would start with conservative toe settings and then stick with it for a while. Get as much negative camber as our camber-challenged cars allow and LEAVE IT. For tuning at the track, I would concentrate on tire pressures and sway bar settings.

I had zero toe all around last season and my car handled pretty well with good tire wear. Start with that and then maybe think about a little front toe out. But remember, without any toe in (like a street car), your car will be darty on high speed sections (which can be unnerving at first) but then turn in on a dime.

I know there are people on this board that know a LOT more about this stuff than I do... hopefully they'll speak up! AnalogMan??