Cracking Rotors
11-17-2009, 11:19 AM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: RSVL, CA
Posts: 642
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cracking Rotors
Hi guys,
I have some questions:
Lets start with this, a nice new set of Alcon 370mm turbulator rotors, EVO driver that has zero brake ducting, driving the hell out of his car at various track events. He gets 3 track days on these before cracking the entire rotor ring. Before he went to the 370's, he had the same issues with 355's.
It's def. not an issue w/ sub-par mettalurgy structure in the ALCON rotors, it's the way he's braking/cooling these brakes.
What are some specific things you can do to over heat your brakes besides the obvious?
Thanks!
I have some questions:
Lets start with this, a nice new set of Alcon 370mm turbulator rotors, EVO driver that has zero brake ducting, driving the hell out of his car at various track events. He gets 3 track days on these before cracking the entire rotor ring. Before he went to the 370's, he had the same issues with 355's.
It's def. not an issue w/ sub-par mettalurgy structure in the ALCON rotors, it's the way he's braking/cooling these brakes.
What are some specific things you can do to over heat your brakes besides the obvious?
Thanks!
11-17-2009, 11:54 AM
#2
Rennlist
Basic Site Sponsor
Basic Site Sponsor
EVOs (I assume we are taking the Mitsubishi ones) are VERY hard on their front brakes. Since we had one for a few years, the best things that we did for the brakes were to remove all of the under panels in the front of the car and get ducts onto the rotors. Then we changed to Pagid RS-19 yellows, which seem to generate the least amount of heat of the racing pads that we tried. That got it to an acceptable level of braking consistency and durablilty on a stock motored car.
__________________
Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
11-17-2009, 12:47 PM
#4
Racer
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tampa/Orlando, FL
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
had the same issue on my subaru, but once I stepped up to 13" rotors I didn't have an issue. i also ran a massive amount of ducting and also the pagid yellows. pagids traditionally don't have as high of a temperature threshold as say, hawks, but they don't get up to as high of temperatures. pagids are more of an endurance pad so they will treat the rotors much better.
to be honest though, ducting is probably the number one issue. You can't take your car on a track and not have any brake ducting.
to be honest though, ducting is probably the number one issue. You can't take your car on a track and not have any brake ducting.
11-17-2009, 03:03 PM
#5
Former Vendor
Yeah 19s or 29s are a favorite for these cars...amongst those that can overcome the price.
Make certain you are using Motul 600 or 600 - or even SRF - at a minimum.
Make certain you are using Motul 600 or 600 - or even SRF - at a minimum.
11-17-2009, 11:34 PM
#6
Guru
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Believe it or not, its sometimes seen in data that LFB's drag the brakes enough to add measurable heat to the system, heat not otherwise welcomed. We also sometimes see a driver via data who doesnt realize he dabs the brakes right before a braking zone, but does. Kinda a pedal reassurance habit, which, too, can add heat.
