Tire equipment
#16
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The purpose of the roller (and I really only use that, not all the other arms) is to hold the tire down in the drop center after it goes past the mounting head. Regular sized tires do not need any help, but with the really wide, really low sidewall tires and slicks, the roller is like a third hand. You can stop and insert *****, or use a Hunter style bead hold down clamp, but either requires you to stop and insert them and then continue. With the roller, it is just set it and smoothly pop on the tire in one continuous revolution.
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Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
#17
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I'm using a hunter TC350 or something. Works great and I use the hunter tennis ball thing that really makes your life easy. I had one set of tires that I would break the beads on then when i dismounted the outboard bead on the rim the inboard bead would almost reseat! I could not get this off so i had to take the wheel off the changer and over the shoe and break the bead again then pull the tire off. That was a huge pain! Anyone have any ideas on how to deal with that problem?
#18
Mr. Excitement
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Woo0ps got the numbers flipped arouund.
Lube the bead and rim as you break the bead. Just let the slobber brush/wand follow the wheel in the bead slot. The tire will slip back but it will not bind up. You might be able to leave the inboard bead breaker wheel in place pushing up on the tire while dismounting the outboard side.
I have a Hunter TC350 stuffed in a corner waiting for me to find the time to check it out and rebuilt if it is worth it. If so it might be for sale but that's another thread.
I have found that few tire/ rim combos need the helpers. YMMV
Lube the bead and rim as you break the bead. Just let the slobber brush/wand follow the wheel in the bead slot. The tire will slip back but it will not bind up. You might be able to leave the inboard bead breaker wheel in place pushing up on the tire while dismounting the outboard side.
I have a Hunter TC350 stuffed in a corner waiting for me to find the time to check it out and rebuilt if it is worth it. If so it might be for sale but that's another thread.
I have found that few tire/ rim combos need the helpers. YMMV
#19
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http://www.nomartirechanger.com/products/showcase
http://www.nomartirechanger.com/videos/22
I bought one of these for bike tires and found that it worked well on 40 and 50 series track tires, Hoosiers and slicks on Fuchs 7 & 9" 15s I haven't tried it on the 996 rims yet. One advantage is that you can get a reciever mount and do tires at the track.
They do carbon fiber rims and I have seen a video that shows changing a huge "Bling" custom auto rim. It was something like 18" wide x 22" dia??
http://www.nomartirechanger.com/videos/22
I bought one of these for bike tires and found that it worked well on 40 and 50 series track tires, Hoosiers and slicks on Fuchs 7 & 9" 15s I haven't tried it on the 996 rims yet. One advantage is that you can get a reciever mount and do tires at the track.
They do carbon fiber rims and I have seen a video that shows changing a huge "Bling" custom auto rim. It was something like 18" wide x 22" dia??
#20
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I'm using a hunter TC350 or something. Works great and I use the hunter tennis ball thing that really makes your life easy. I had one set of tires that I would break the beads on then when i dismounted the outboard bead on the rim the inboard bead would almost reseat! I could not get this off so i had to take the wheel off the changer and over the shoe and break the bead again then pull the tire off. That was a huge pain! Anyone have any ideas on how to deal with that problem?
#21
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Check out Werther International, http://www.werther.com/automotive/au...echangers.html. I've known these guys for 25 years. They are the BEST! Talk to Kurt or Max.
#22
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Years ago I bought one of Roger Kraus' manual changers. Yeah, requires a bit of muscle sometimes. Never has failed me with even the 295/30-18's I just mounted on 11" wheels for the C4S. Absolute snap for slicks with their soft sidewalls. Radial, anyway. Can't say how it works for the bias ply cantilevers......
Picked up a Ranger balancer, just the basic unit. Has worked fine for the 100 or so tires I've used it for over the past 6-7 years.
Picked up a Ranger balancer, just the basic unit. Has worked fine for the 100 or so tires I've used it for over the past 6-7 years.
#23
Three Wheelin'
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I have never heard of the Roger Kraus' changers. But in my latest issue of Harbor Freight catalog, they have a portable tire changer by "Central Machinery" for $49.99. I wonder if it works? No matter I guess, if you remember, any tool you buy at Harbor Freight will eventually be used as a hammer.
Bill Seifert
Bill Seifert
#24
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I have never heard of the Roger Kraus' changers. But in my latest issue of Harbor Freight catalog, they have a portable tire changer by "Central Machinery" for $49.99. I wonder if it works? No matter I guess, if you remember, any tool you buy at Harbor Freight will eventually be used as a hammer.
Bill Seifert
Bill Seifert
http://rogerkrausracing.com/pages/rk...ingsystem.html
I popped a set of dead Toyos off some 17" Cup 1's yesterday in about 15 minutes. Sure, it's not as neat as having a rim clamp; but it serves my purposes.