kurt M

Tested the system today and it works as planed 100%. No tunneling or backwaters. As soon as the thermostat cracked both hot side lines came up to the same temp then the coolers them selves came up to and ran at the same temp. Even heating across the coolers as well as between them. I blocked air flow to one to get the heat in that one higher than the other and it did run up to feed temps. As as soon as the airflow was restored the temps moved right back to equilibrium and were 100% even side to side. Stayed even at idle and at held revs.

Larry Herman

Nothing like some good old empirical testing to dispell hunches, educated guesses and logical extrapolations!

Jeff Lamb

Kurt, that is very good news so far!! Out of curiosity, can you describe the type of temperature senders (brand and model#) you are using? I still need to choose my temperature senders and I haven't even started to look at what is available yet. Are you also running temp senders to obtain the oil temp entering and/or exiting the engine?

When you were looking for T fittings to split the oil at the thermostat, did you find any that made more gentle turns (maybe more like a "Y" fitting)? Or, did you primarily focus on T fittings with the 90 degree turns due to fitment concerns?

I went back and looked at the pictures you posted -> Are all of your oil lines in the pictures the -12 size? Or, are any of those lines -16?

Thanks,
Jeff

kurt M

-12 for pressure -16 for tank to motor. Looked for but did not find sweep AN type T fittings. Thought about Tig welding up my own but figured on testing to see if it was needed. Once the oil was at full temp I set a high rpm and watched the oil flow in the tank. it did not look like it was exceeding any flow rates for the tubing size. Not dribbling but not jetting out like a pressure washer ether.

Main Temp sender is a GM sender running to a IQ3. Temps taken on lines are from temporary mount digital indoor outdoor type thermometers with remote sensor type. temps taken across the coolers themselves with a good Raytec IR gun. The second the thermostats set point temp was were reached and the thermostat opened the temp rise stopped.

Once I have the basics sorted out on this car I will likely add temp senders. Right now the box has all 4 ports in use If I have to get another one for another input i will use any unused for more temp readings. The GM sender is $7 and programs right up to the IQ3 via the serial box. Thanks to Tony K for some big help with all things IC3.

Jeff Lamb

Kurt, thanks for the additional info. I am running an IQ3 too so that makes it easy for us to share notes . . . although I haven't started working on the complete re-wiring of my race car yet. If I run across any interesting ideas when I start working on my wiring, I will pass them along.

Do you have a first track event chosen yet to "break in" your newly built race car?

Jeff