Nope, it was 100% as from the factory. The only thing that I did was to run Pagid Yellows and turn the front strut tops to get a proper amount of negative camber in the front. I did a complete re-alignment to my own specs and had no problems with the eccentrics or the toe links. Maybe it was because I tightened the **** out of them.

 

997gt3 TC always off
996gt3 no TC
both cars are NOT snappy.
you do need a good alignment and some skills to manage wt transfer, which is quite different than just about any other car.

 

I turned it off once I toasted the rear pads and think it is better to run on the track with it off.
Boyd

 

Definitely takes some getting used to on the weight transfer. Didn't realize how much until I drove a friends GT3 last Friday. Not near as forgiving as the race car.

 

You seemed to enjoy driving mine last Friday at the Glen ...

 

.....and which of John's category does your GT3 fit in Chris?.........

My next Porsche will be a 6GT3.......

 

The not mentioned category ... intact.

The 6 GT3 is a great car and no TC.

 

Larry I am guessing from looking at your signature that that your gt3 was not your first track car. My point was when beginning to learn this skill, driving a GT3 is not easy as compared to a lower hp momentum car. So Yes, I have spun my car while in the process of learning how to drive it. Generally at a track that I am less failure with my limits. Your experience may make controlling the car easy, I have found It to be a challenge.
Personal opinion, about its handling, I think the car's balance from the stock is to much rear grip and not enough front grip. so drifting like I used to do on dirt tracks which is similar to the slip angle on paved tracks is not constant front rear, so Its just some adjustment for me.

 

Frank, you might want to look at the alignment. The 997 GT3s are setup with some understeer, while the 996 GT3s were pretty neutral. I re-aligned Terry L's car and it made a marked improvement on turn-in without making the car feel loose.

 

True dat.

 

I am pretty much running the track alignment in the manual,figuring they should know what they are doing. front -2.2 camber toe 0 ::Rear -2 camber, toe what ever the manual said its like -16 degrees or what ever that value was. The track set is is way better, and I have come to learn how to use the car's slight push compared to driving a car with a lose condition, which is what I am used to.

 

+1

Than again, I have yet to create understeer on my GT3 (Almost all hard front sway bar and full soft rear, no understeer, the rear just feels more planted??), although that could be because I have been running used tires from day one.

I just bought my first set of new Hoosiers for the rear only, so it might push next week at VIR....

 

Next time you have some money burning a hole in your pocket, try setting the front camber up to -3.2 or so. You will probably have to turn the strut tops (unless you have done that already). You will be amazed at the difference. It is nothing but good!

BTW the rest of your settings look in the ball park.

 

Larry, what sway bar settings do you recommend with those camber settings?

The 7GT3's came from the factory full soft front, full stiff rear...and that was no good. Many of us are now running 1 from full stiff front and full soft rear...now the rear seems planted.

 

No recommendation here. The real answer is whatever works. Sway bars are for tuning the balance of the car, and every driver has their own comfort level. For the way I like a car, if the rear end is really planted, it probably understeers too much.