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Motive Power Bleeder - procedure

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Old 05-27-2009, 11:10 AM
  #31  
Flying Finn
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Originally Posted by mooty
i have motiv
i fill it with fluid and use it the way the instruction suggested.
i know many ppl use it with air, as pressure source only.

SO HERE IS THE QUESTION....

if you use it only as pressure source, why not just put somesort of adaptor and connect a bicycle pump (as pressure source) to the MC and pump away as if the bike pump is the motiv?
What Graig said but you could of course use air compressor for this. They all should have pressure valve so just set that to 10 psi or so, get a extra brake fluid reservoir cap, install a air hose quick connector to it and you're all set.

Hmmm... I already have Motive but that sounds like it would be even better, or at least easier way to do it (no re-pumping the air and adding more brake fluid is easier because of quick connector)...
Old 05-27-2009, 11:13 AM
  #32  
eclou
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if you use an air compressor, make sure you have an in-line moisture trap on it otherwise you will be forcing moisture into the brake fluid.
Old 05-27-2009, 11:52 AM
  #33  
Martin S.
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Smile And dont forget....

change the color of the fluid when you want to flush the system. This way when the clear, or blue appears at the calipers, you'll know you have flushed the system...dont forget the clutch system. I just have my satanic mechanic do the clutch and system flush...

At the track I use the motive with fluid in the Motive. If you use it just for an air pressure source, I have been told you are risking the possibility of forcing air into the system. We dont want that, do we?

Pressurizing dry is much neater, but I dont want to risk air into the system. I told trash the left over fresh fluid after a flush.
Old 05-27-2009, 03:01 PM
  #34  
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You won't force air in unless you let the MC run too low - even a bit of vigilance will easily prevent this.
Old 05-27-2009, 05:46 PM
  #35  
todinlaw
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Originally Posted by Flying Finn
What Graig said but you could of course use air compressor for this. They all should have pressure valve so just set that to 10 psi or so, get a extra brake fluid reservoir cap, install a air hose quick connector to it and you're all set.

Hmmm... I already have Motive but that sounds like it would be even better, or at least easier way to do it (no re-pumping the air and adding more brake fluid is easier because of quick connector)...
I was thinking about this today. I have the Motive pro which comes with a quick disconnect. You could by a pressure regulator for in line with the air hose, if our compressor does not have one. You sometimes need a pressure regulator with some air tools anyway, and as you said set it to about 10psi and Wham, you got a high power power bleeder. I like it.
I am for sure the dry method. What is funny is that when I bought mine I never read the instructions "shocker" and did not know that they recommended putting the fluid in the bottle, just made more sense to use it as a pressure device and limit the fluid to the brake system.
After reading all the posts I do now wonder if we are pushing old fluid out of the ABS. I will have to think about that.
Old 05-27-2009, 08:02 PM
  #36  
911vet
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Originally Posted by todinlaw
I never read the instructions "shocker" and did not know that they recommended putting the fluid in the bottle, just made more sense to use it as a pressure device and limit the fluid to the brake system.
You can read my thread on the 911 forum. Two days ago I tried a quick little bleed using the dry method and ended up with no clutch.

I don't know how the reservoir is set up on the new cars, but on my 87 the outlet for the clutch is higher than for the brakes. I didn't let it get low enough for air to get in the brake, but it was sucking it into the clutch.

I had to fill the Motive pump and start over. Finally got the air flushed out the slave.

It was the first (and last) time I'll ever try the dry method. Beware, it's easier than you might think to pull in air.

And, yep, I ended up using $34 of Motul in the process. But I would have used much less if I had started with it in the pump.
Old 05-28-2009, 09:03 AM
  #37  
kurt M
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Originally Posted by 911vet
You can read my thread on the 911 forum. Two days ago I tried a quick little bleed using the dry method and ended up with no clutch.

I don't know how the reservoir is set up on the new cars, but on my 87 the outlet for the clutch is higher than for the brakes. I didn't let it get low enough for air to get in the brake, but it was sucking it into the clutch.

I had to fill the Motive pump and start over. Finally got the air flushed out the slave.

It was the first (and last) time I'll ever try the dry method. Beware, it's easier than you might think to pull in air.

And, yep, I ended up using $34 of Motul in the process. But I would have used much less if I had started with it in the pump.
That happens a lot based on the "can you help me" calls and PMs I get.

BTW the clutch can be a royal bitch to clear the air out of. I get calls about having run 4 quarts through and still having a mushy pedal. Seems that the clutch has some high points that trap air.
I like the flush and mix method. Flush as much air out with fluid as you can then pump the clutch pedal 20 /30 times fast to foam the remaining air into the fluid. Flush some more as fast as you can. Repeat until you get a good pedal.
Old 06-28-2018, 04:28 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by LouZ
I adapted my hose with connectors used for air lines, now I screw on the cap, attach the hose to the canister, pressurize and bleed. When it is time to refill, I just unplug the hose from the canister, unscrew the cap and refill, then cap on and hook up to the still pressurized container.
I'm definitely using this idea for my motive application between car and motorcycle.

thanks for the inspiring ideas!
Old 06-28-2018, 05:18 PM
  #39  
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Motive 1100 Master Cylinder Adapter if you don't want to reinvent the wheel ($21).

BTW, the inline regulators can be quite inaccurate especially at such a low pressure. Mine set at 10# was closer to 15#. Best to check it with an air gauge so you don't blow a seal.

Amazon Amazon
Old 06-28-2018, 07:26 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by STLPCA
Motive 1100 Master Cylinder Adapter if you don't want to reinvent the wheel ($21).

BTW, the inline regulators can be quite inaccurate especially at such a low pressure. Mine set at 10# was closer to 15#. Best to check it with an air gauge so you don't blow a seal.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q6UHQK..._ccunBbK62CKET
thanks~

the 1100 adaptor works with Porsche 991 ?
Old 06-28-2018, 07:33 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by TsaiCo
thanks~

the 1100 adaptor works with Porsche 991 ?
"including most Alfa Romeo, Audi, BMW, Fiat, Mercedes, Peugeot, Porsche, Renault, SAAB, Volkswagen, Volvo, and all other cars with 45mm threaded hydraulic fluid reservoir caps"

Works fine with my (981) GT4.
Old 06-28-2018, 08:18 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by STLPCA
"including most Alfa Romeo, Audi, BMW, Fiat, Mercedes, Peugeot, Porsche, Renault, SAAB, Volkswagen, Volvo, and all other cars with 45mm threaded hydraulic fluid reservoir caps"

Works fine with my (981) GT4.
awesome! thanks for the tips~
Old 06-28-2018, 09:01 PM
  #43  
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Amazon Amazon

I'M GONNA DO THIS TOO...!!

switching between moto and car application would be easier for me...
Old 07-02-2018, 02:29 PM
  #44  
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I use 8 psi and run MOTIV ......DRY.....and add fluid to the vehicle reservoir
Old 07-02-2018, 09:22 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by TsaiCo
Amazon Amazon

I'M GONNA DO THIS TOO...!!

switching between moto and car application would be easier for me...
I found some plastic air connectors instead of the brass ones. Less mass and less chance to hit something on the paint.

I can't remember the exact model of connectors and I'm not at home, but the connectors are similar to these

https://www.usplastic.com/mobile/sea...em&keyword=Apc


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