eclou

exactly what happened to me this afternoon. I am bleeding the rear passenger caliper when I notice the flow stops and I hear a leaking fluid sound on the other end of the car. Hose had broken apart under pressure and fresh RBF600 was sprayed all over the front end. Yipee!!

sig_a

Bleeding/flushing with the Motive by pressurizing the DRY bottle to 10 PSI, forcing out all the fluid one wheel at a time. Then fill the Motive bottle with new fluid pressurized to 10 PSI to refill the system one wheel at a time. Clean out the bottle with isopropyl alcohol.

kurt M

Are you injecting air into the system as you are forcing the old fluid out?

InTheAir

No, the fluid in the reservoir is being forced into the system under the head pressure of the Motive Bleeder. The idea is before the reservoir empties, you stop, unpressurize the system, fill the reservoir, and repressurize.

InTheAir

Gene, any paint damage? Yuck.

sig_a

Yes, I use pressurized (10 PSI) to purge all fluid from reservoir as well as the complete brake line circuit. In other words, I replace all the fluid with air, then push out all the air with fluid. The end result is a reservoir filled to "max" and no air in system, or so it seems.

I bleed or flush this car's brake system before each track event as is required. I don't touch the brake peddle. I flush with Valvoline Synpower, which is relatively cheap, then refill with Pentosin Racing.

kurt M

Might I sugest that rather than injecting air into the system you run more fluid through. 2 reasons. The first is that sometimes a little air can be a royal bitch to get out of an odd corner of an MC or line loop. The second is that the flowing fluid helps to pick up contaminates and pull them out while air does not. Even with air blowing out the bleader there is still old fluid in the system that will remain regardless of air flow. Flush some and pump the brakes while under pressure and flow to pulse and stir the fluids, flush some more. If you have fluid that is real bad as in many years old black sludge bad you should at least flush, drive for a day or so to mix and flush the system again. I did testing during some changes from dot 4 to SRF on 3 cars. 2 properly done flushes got you 99% there but it took 3 flushes to have the fluid test to 100% SRF rating. The first flush split the numbers between the still good original dot 4 and SRF. If it were my car and it had dot 4 or worse and I was looking for the full protection of SRF I would flush twice with some drive time between them.

NJcroc

This is a really bad idea for cars with ABS. When you empty the abs pump of fluid and replace with air, you will leave air trapped in the pump. only way to remove air from pump is activating the ABS. this is not that easy to do and flush enough. running new fluid works much better.

BTW I use the dry method takes less time and wastes less fluid

sig_a

[QUOTE=NJcroc;6586735]This is a really bad idea for cars with ABS.

I agree. But I don't have ABS.

Coochas

I flush my Motive bleeder after use with Nitrogen from my tires, that way there is no moisture and the brake fluid will stay fresh.

I'm kidding of course!

TrackDays247.com

Use only air in the MOTIV. Plenty of experience with these for 11 years of DEs, I also sell them.

Check MC res often and use the MOTIV as a pressure vessel only -

mooty

i have motiv
i fill it with fluid and use it the way the instruction suggested.
i know many ppl use it with air, as pressure source only.

SO HERE IS THE QUESTION....

if you use it only as pressure source, why not just put somesort of adaptor and connect a bicycle pump (as pressure source) to the MC and pump away as if the bike pump is the motiv?

Potomac-Greg

I made two rookie errors. Too much pressure (15 lbs) and not enough fluid for the job.

I was bleeding my clutch for the first time and the juice was exiting the slave cylinder nicely (but making a mess) and while repositioning the drain bottle the slave starts spitting air. In the time it took me to shimmy out from under the car, I had purged the whole system with air. I had to blow another liter of juice to get it back in operation again. Another selling point for Ate!

TrackDays247.com

Mooty, you need a containment device to hold the accumulated pressure - a bike pump doesn't have this.

mooty

right...
duh....