insite

well, it finally happened. 140k on the clock & popped my motor (2.5L boxster) at the track. me thinks a rod bolt let go.

now i am considering my options. i plan on keeping this car as a weekend / track car for a long time. i get emotionally attached to my cars & for some reason this one is a favorite. that, and i've done so much to the chassis, i really don't feel like starting over. SO, that means i need a motor.

1. i could simply buy a motor out of a similar wrecked car for around $4,500 and put it in myself.

Pros: cheapest option.
Cons: no telling what kind of shape the motor is in. still has inherent design flaws. no extra power. not much 'piece of mind'.



2. i could upgrade to a 3.2L boxster S motor for maybe $5,000 - $6,000

Pros: a bit more power (maybe 40HP)
Cons: same as above



3. upgrade to a 3.4L from a 996; $7k for the motor + $2k to make it work. possible core charge of around $2k if they don't accept my 2.5L as an equivalent.

Pros: +100HP
Cons: same as above PLUS thinner cylinder walls, exposing me to the 'd-chunk' failure mode. also, getting expensive!



4. upgrade to a 3.4L REBUILD with no re-design. $7k for the motor, $2k to make it fit, $2k for ancilliaries since the motor only comes as a block w/o intake, fuel rails, etc that will NOT work from my 2.5L.

Pros: +100HP, zero hour motor
Cons: Expensive. Questionable rebuild procedure as the MMC cylinders are NOT machinable and these guys do NOT sleeve the block. Still has inherent design flaws.


5. Jake Raby rebuild, bored & stroked to 2.9L. $12k - $14k

Pros: zero hour motor. inherent M96 design flaws all fixed (nikasil cylinders to solve d-chunk; new oiling route & modified baffles & pan to solve high-g starvation issue; intermediate shaft bearing re-design). race quality components (JE forged pistons, forged rods, competition valve job, etc). also +100HP. includes dyno tuning / break-in. builder has very solid rep. also, builder is local, so no freight charges.

Cons: VERY expensive




so basically, i'm trying to decide whether to band-aid this or just ante up and go for something that should be more or less bullet proof. opinions & thoughts are appreciated!

ajcjr

sorry to hear you blew the motor but i am interested to see what opinions you get. I have been looking at the boxster platforms and asked about rebuilds. Most said that you can get a used one for $3500, but how much is to install or how hard to install on your own.

Good luck getting back on the track

DWalker

I would keep researching options, as there are many more out there.

fpb111

If you have the $$ and really plan to keep the car go for option #5.

I did something very similar with my 1972. I spent $$$ for a modified 3.0 to 3.2 with all new parts. I ran the car for 17 years and 40+ DEs. No major problems just fanatical routine maintenance.

joel-cs

I have a 987 3.4L motor for sale. 2k street miles. Less $ than you indicate above. PM me for details if interested. I haven't done it, but as I understand it is an easy install.

insite

unfortunately, the 987 3.4L would require EXTENSIVE modification to my car's electronics in order to work. this is because the 987 uses CAN bus; my car can't communicate with it.

insite

they're pretty easy to install. there are certainly some $3500 options around, but they don't get me any more power or piece of mind. still, i could get three of these for the price of a Raby motor.

Jake Raby

I have that good used 2.5 I told you about and will take 2,750.00 for it...

My definition of value is the most power over the longest period of time for the best price, not the cheapest initial investment.

Plus, my option is the only one that allows an engine to be specifically set up for track duty, thats because all of our components are total overkill anyway and are already race quality... That means oil system mods, altered bearing clearances and coated bearing surfaces... And an elevation in CR and some head work don't cost anything additional.

BTW- The 2.9 engine I told you about when we talked is now assembled and we drove it 100 miles yesterday at 13:1 CR on pump gas and the data logs are wonderful, fuel economy is outrageous! We are strapping it on the dynojet now to begin the ECU flashing developments.. Most people would never believe that a 13:1 engine could run on pump gas, and certainly not with a stock ECU flash.. Thats another myth proven wrong and the data is being gathered to prove it, beginning in about 20 minutes!

You need to come sit in for some of the R&D sessions... Thats a possibility, since you are so local to us...

That puts you in the group with 90% of our Clients.

smlporsche

I'm not sure if option 2 is possible. Aren't the 3.2 motors E gas?

I have heard good things about Jake's motors...

gbaker

Pfft. Small block Chevy. Done|

Gasser

I vote fully built motor. Double the cost, double the life and double the fun.

Jake Raby

Thats a damn good statement!

cgomez

3.4L 996 motor with custom electronics from a reputable shop plus a few goodies like LFW.

It works, I've driven it (Friends Spec Boxster converted to 3.4) and its the most fun track car Ive ever driven. Just make sure you source it from a reputable shop like Farnbacher who has done this many times properly.

Brinkley

I kicked a rod on my 3.2 S and was bitten by the "get more HP bug" so I got a 2005 3.6L 996 motor from Porsche. It wasn't a brand new $20k motor but the "Factory Rebuilt" for $8500. My car was E gas, the motor is E gas however the electrical system was the most difficult issue. That said, there are now more and more experienced shops that can and have swapped engines and dealt with the differences in wiring/ecu.

I finally went to a Motec M800 ecu, Sport Data Logger Dash, and custom wiring harness. I echo the earlier statements of checking the shops historical experience with swaps.

Boil it all down and I would go with a larger motor/higher HP and if Raby checks out and can give you a strong motor with more HP its worth further discussion.

With added HP you will need to get a GT LSD, it's a must! If not you will spend your time in the corners just waiting to get the power down. Before, I would spin the inside tire in 2nd and 3rd gears at every turn. Now the car is a different beast that launches out of every apex and I love it.

MUSSBERGER

Option 2 with some more attention to the inherent oiling issues.

Or

Option Brinkley sounds pretty good