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Budget 944 Turbo GT3 Build

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Old 04-24-2009, 10:48 PM
  #46  
hp18racer
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No. Another lap and he'd have probably caught me :O Wonder how he got past the scrutineers without numbers?
Old 05-04-2009, 11:47 PM
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hp18racer
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Engine wire harness was melted in several places, lots of fried vacuum lines. Melted the clutch hydraulic line, crank sensors and alternator wire harness. Spent a lot of time cleaning out fire extinguisher dust. About half of what I need to fix it will come from my parts car. In another week should have the rest of the parts to start putting it together again. I'm going to use a CEP fuel rail, remote FPR and AN lines.

1st Picture is good factory FPR. 2nd is mine with BOTH tabs broken off. I've read about failures in the fuel lines and fuel rail but never the FPR!@$#!$ I hope that those of you running the stock fuel system will add inspecting the FPR mounting tabs to your race prep list.

I'd also add that making a habit of getting out with my hans and helmet on served me well when the time came to get out of a burning car as quickly as possible.
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Old 05-05-2009, 05:42 AM
  #48  
Duke
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Wow, that looks scary. Glad you're ok.
Old 05-05-2009, 05:58 AM
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DAMN that sux!! Any pics? How quickly did it go and did you lose a lot or kill it fast? Sorry if this was posted elsewhere already. Sorry to hear of your troubles.
Old 05-23-2009, 11:46 PM
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A few pictures attached of the mess.

Great day today, finished basic repairs and the motor started!
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Old 05-25-2009, 12:06 AM
  #51  
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Well at least your project fared better than mine!

Slid off track at Putnam last weekend trying to get one hot qualifying lap in as the it was just starting to mist/drizzle. Hit one of the very few guardrails there, did a "Dukes of Hazard" flight, and augured in "like a lawn dart" (as one of my friends put it) before it slowy went over its nose onto its roof. Thank God for the extra roof bar I put in, and the Hans- no bumps, bruises, or cuts. No sore muscles, nothing. Raced the rest of the week end in a rental 944. kindly provided by Bennington Motorsports.

I would think hard about getting the cage you want in their sooner rather than later - never know when you might need it!

Good luck with your rebuild!
Old 05-27-2009, 04:05 AM
  #52  
OZ951
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That FPR failure is an odd one, have you identified what led to it's demise ?
Old 05-29-2009, 05:18 PM
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Hey Ron, glad you are getting it sorted! When are you going to track it again?

Regards,
Old 05-30-2009, 02:18 AM
  #54  
hp18racer
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Not entirely sure what killed the FPR. The new one is remote mounted and a lot harder to break.

I plan to do the DE at Heartland June 13/14 for a shake down.

I removed the balance and timing belts today to replace them, looked like the fire wasn't close to them but wanted to be safe. I found that the timing belt idler pulley had several teeth that were a little messed up so one more wait for parts before I finish up.

I did some parts trading to get camber plates. They gained more than 10mm of wheel clearance to the strut. Now my 10x18 @ 65 CCW's fit up front so I can run a 285/30 all around :O
Old 08-13-2009, 11:57 PM
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Drove the June DE. The car handled great with new Hoosier 285/30/18's all around. The motor didn't run right. Misfired on boost, power would go totally flat but boost would build as expected.

I checked the crank and speed sensors with an o-scope and found a very week signal on the crank sensor. With that adjusted properly I thought I had it solved. Made a trip to the drag strip to test it, no misfire but no power.

Made a blink code tester and tested every other sensor I could. Found the knock sensor was open circuit. Replaced it and went back to the drag strip. The car ran steadily worse, blink codes showed overboost, idle surging wildly then no throttle response and quit entirely.

Found that the cam pulley bolt had backed out. Damaged the cam shaft and gear but valves were still OK. Changed the cam and cam gear and still wildly surging idle. Deleted idle control valve and swapped out the chip in the KLR. Must have had a vacuum leak before that kept the KLR from seeing overboost :O

Finally it's running right again! Maybe some day I'll grow up to be a good mechanic.

Looking forward to the October Club Race at Hallett!
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Old 08-14-2009, 12:57 AM
  #56  
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Always loctite that cam bolt, or they will come out Glad you found it!
Old 08-14-2009, 11:38 AM
  #57  
Potomac-Greg
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Originally Posted by hp18racer
Drove the June DE. The car handled great with new Hoosier 285/30/18's all around. The motor didn't run right. Misfired on boost, power would go totally flat but boost would build as expected.

I checked the crank and speed sensors with an o-scope and found a very week signal on the crank sensor. With that adjusted properly I thought I had it solved. Made a trip to the drag strip to test it, no misfire but no power.

Made a blink code tester and tested every other sensor I could. Found the knock sensor was open circuit. Replaced it and went back to the drag strip. The car ran steadily worse, blink codes showed overboost, idle surging wildly then no throttle response and quit entirely.

Found that the cam pulley bolt had backed out. Damaged the cam shaft and gear but valves were still OK. Changed the cam and cam gear and still wildly surging idle. Deleted idle control valve and swapped out the chip in the KLR. Must have had a vacuum leak before that kept the KLR from seeing overboost :O

Finally it's running right again! Maybe some day I'll grow up to be a good mechanic.

Looking forward to the October Club Race at Hallett!

Wow. You really are the right guy for this project. For me, every sentence you wrote would have to start with, "And then I paid a guy to ...."
Old 09-23-2009, 08:49 PM
  #58  
hp18racer
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The new look after repairing the fire damage.
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Old 09-23-2009, 09:39 PM
  #59  
Charles A. Toupin
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So instead of having the flames inside the engine bay, you decided to put them outside; am I correct?



(just joking...). Nice car!



c.
Old 09-24-2009, 09:31 AM
  #60  
Lemming
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Looks great!


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