Veloce Raptor
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+1Originally Posted by Bryan Watts
If you aren't cracking rotors, especially drilled rotors, you are going too slow and leaving too much time on the track in the braking zones.
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You'll find them a BIG improvement. However, size matters too when discussing heat so, if you can fit a larger rotor at the same time, go bigger.Originally Posted by Gary R.
I'm going to try the frozen "1/2 slot" (the slots are not to the edge of the rotor) but if I knew than what I know now I would have tried the frozen OEM's..
Gary R.
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I could go bigger, but if I did I would be cheating like everyone else in D Stock.. Originally Posted by PedroNole
You'll find them a BIG improvement. However, size matters too when discussing heat so, if you can fit a larger rotor at the same time, go bigger.

Veloce Raptor
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+2Originally Posted by PedroNole
You'll find them a BIG improvement. However, size matters too when discussing heat so, if you can fit a larger rotor at the same time, go bigger.
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Whats wrong with slotted rotors? I went with protosport and like them so far.Originally Posted by Gary R.
From what I have gathered for most of us it's just best to use the stock, no-slot, no-drill OEM rotors. I'm going to try the frozen "1/2 slot" (the slots are not to the edge of the rotor) but if I knew than what I know now I would have tried the frozen OEM's..
Gary R.
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Frank - I was told they tend to crack on the slot by the guys with cars/usage similar to mine. I can't say anything either way about using them on your car.Originally Posted by todinlaw
Whats wrong with slotted rotors? I went with protosport and like them so far.
Burning Brakes
Frank,
From what I have seen and read, they just are not worth the extra money. The pads I have used (Hawk Blue, Hawk HT10, Pagid Black, Pagid Orange) all have a slot cut in them. That slot vents the gasses. A slot in the rotor is supposed to slice the pad slightly keeping the wear more even, but my PowerSlots cracked after 6 track days. I went back to OEM.
From what I have seen and read, they just are not worth the extra money. The pads I have used (Hawk Blue, Hawk HT10, Pagid Black, Pagid Orange) all have a slot cut in them. That slot vents the gasses. A slot in the rotor is supposed to slice the pad slightly keeping the wear more even, but my PowerSlots cracked after 6 track days. I went back to OEM.
007DT
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OEM are Cast holes in the rotors vs Drilled holes in the rotors like 95% of after-market. That makes a HUGE difference IMO.
No problems w/ OEM here, but I had Zimmermans that I trashed in about 6 DE's
No problems w/ OEM here, but I had Zimmermans that I trashed in about 6 DE's
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Dave,
"OEM are Cast holes" I had no idea. Did that begin with the 993? The original post was from a 3.2 Carrera. Most of the replies have been from similar cars, and all of ours OEM are solid with no holes or slots. Just radial vents.
"OEM are Cast holes" I had no idea. Did that begin with the 993? The original post was from a 3.2 Carrera. Most of the replies have been from similar cars, and all of ours OEM are solid with no holes or slots. Just radial vents.
007DT
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"OEM are Cast holes" I had no idea. Did that begin with the 993? The original post was from a 3.2 Carrera. Most of the replies have been from similar cars, and all of ours OEM are solid with no holes or slots. Just radial vents.
Not sure when it began but I'm 99.9% sure they are cast. Yea I suppose they could crack it is a weak point but not nearly like a drilled rotor. Big difference IMO.Originally Posted by dbryant61
Dave,"OEM are Cast holes" I had no idea. Did that begin with the 993? The original post was from a 3.2 Carrera. Most of the replies have been from similar cars, and all of ours OEM are solid with no holes or slots. Just radial vents.
Burning Brakes
Makes sense. Drilling creates localized microscopic fractures that propogate under stress. Cast holes would be a more uniform surface.
I'll stick with my cheap plain rotors for now. I think I paid $50 per for the last set.
I'll stick with my cheap plain rotors for now. I think I paid $50 per for the last set.
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"OEM are Cast holes" I had no idea. Did that begin with the 993? The original post was from a 3.2 Carrera. Most of the replies have been from similar cars, and all of ours OEM are solid with no holes or slots. Just radial vents.
Carrera rotors are solid, but 930 of the same era had cast holes.Originally Posted by dbryant61
Dave,"OEM are Cast holes" I had no idea. Did that begin with the 993? The original post was from a 3.2 Carrera. Most of the replies have been from similar cars, and all of ours OEM are solid with no holes or slots. Just radial vents.
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No problems w/ OEM here, but I had Zimmermans that I trashed in about 6 DE's
Cast vs. drilled makes all the difference with longevity. AFAIK, factory rotors for NA street cars began with the 993, although they used them earlier for other cars like the 964 Cups (same pad size as a 993), etc.Originally Posted by 007DT
OEM are Cast holes in the rotors vs Drilled holes in the rotors like 95% of after-market. That makes a HUGE difference IMO. No problems w/ OEM here, but I had Zimmermans that I trashed in about 6 DE's
Mikelly
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My pig weighs 3364 without me in it. I'm using a USED set of Coleman Racing front 350mm slotted rotors and have put 9 days on them so far, and the previous owner had 4 days on them... I'm seeing zero wear on them and would recommend anyone doing DEs only to send a worn out rotor to Coleman and get them to make you a pair of two piece floating or solid rotor. Initial setup will run you around $900, but the outter rotors will only cost in the range of $300-350 per pair and will last 3 times longer than oem drilled rotors.
I've run coleman rotors on other projects, but was glad to stumble onto these and find that Coleman still makes customs for you!
Mike
I've run coleman rotors on other projects, but was glad to stumble onto these and find that Coleman still makes customs for you!
Mike

