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Do you use a Torque Stick?

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Old 02-11-2008, 05:55 PM
  #16  
Bryan Watts
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Originally Posted by kurt M
Use a gun that is VSR. On/off guns are not as good. With VSR you can ease the nut on and stop before you mess up the threads if you crossed one up.
Agreed...I would also add that it's well worth the money to spend $5-12 on a proper race stud that is machined in such a way as to prevent cross threads. A good wheel stud will usually be made from materials and treated to make them "tough" as opposed to the cheaper studs that are manufactured to be "hard" to the point that they are too brittle. I'd rather have a stud stretch and bend rather than break.
Old 02-11-2008, 06:15 PM
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gbaker
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Originally Posted by Phokaioglaukos
Thanks for all the thoughts.

There is a member in our club who works for a company that has a mobile bolt stretch measuring device for use in the field. I got a long description during a track walk, but all I really recall is that it is expensive.

Where do I get the torque plus angle specs for my Porsche?...
I can't help you with that one. Sorry. You will have to ask around.

Going that far may be wasted effort for wheel applications. Torque + angle and measuring stretch are typically reserved for controlled environment, critical applications--like connecting rod bolts. At the extreme, assembly protocols can require specific thread lube and room temperatures.

By contrast, if you're slapping a lug nut on a dirty, old stud a calibrated torque stick will probably get as close as any other method.

Are they calibrated?

Last edited by gbaker; 02-11-2008 at 06:16 PM. Reason: Bad typing
Old 02-11-2008, 09:05 PM
  #18  
Rick
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I use them on my race car all the time...I have one labeled as 80 ft pounds and it's consistently very close to that (+/- 1 or 2 ft lbs). After using that, I put the car down on the ground and use a torque wrench to set the lugs to what I want.

I highly recommend it...works great for me.



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