Motul RBF 660 beats out Castrol SRF?
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Motul RBF 660 beats out Castrol SRF?
I've never heard of the 660 so I'm assuming it's new, here are the numbers...
Motul RBF 660
Dry 617
Wet 399
1/2 liter is $27
Castrol SRF
Dry 590
Wet 518
1 liter $74.5 (or $37 per 1/2 liter price for comaprison)
For those of us tracking or attending DE's and changing out fluid before every event we really only need to focus on the dry boiling point correct? If that is the case then the RBF 660 seems to be on top. Don't know where the wet boiling point factors in if you are changing your fluid before every track weekend.
Let's hear what you guys think
Motul RBF 660
Dry 617
Wet 399
1/2 liter is $27
Castrol SRF
Dry 590
Wet 518
1 liter $74.5 (or $37 per 1/2 liter price for comaprison)
For those of us tracking or attending DE's and changing out fluid before every event we really only need to focus on the dry boiling point correct? If that is the case then the RBF 660 seems to be on top. Don't know where the wet boiling point factors in if you are changing your fluid before every track weekend.
Let's hear what you guys think
#2
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I have always thought that the value of the SRF was the WET boiling point, which allowed for changing the fluid less often then those fluids with a lower wet point. But, I don't have a problem with my good old ATE Blue fluid, so .....
#3
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From everything I have read the wet point is the important one as the fluid heats up.
I am def not an expert in it by any means - thats just what I have always heard.
SRF Wet 518 vs Motul Wet 399 - huge difference...
I would like to hear from the experts....
Thanks,
Norm
I am def not an expert in it by any means - thats just what I have always heard.
SRF Wet 518 vs Motul Wet 399 - huge difference...
I would like to hear from the experts....
Thanks,
Norm
#5
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Value of the SRF is the wet boiling point as others have said. There are many others that have a somewhat higher dry boiling point.
#6
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Okay so why are we concerened with the wet boiling point if the expected life of the fluid is one weekend (as per my post)? Does it really obsorb THAT much moisture? I can see it benefit if it stays in the car longer for sure
#7
Burning Brakes
I'm not sure how you've arrived at the conclusion that the brake fluid needs to be completely changed after 1 event? I think that most people would find that to be excessively excessive (if that makes sense). Using the Castrol, or even lowly ATE - you should be able to get away with a quick bleed between events and be just fine. Based on the numbers, the wet temps on the SRF will let it last much longer before it loses effectiveness than either the Motul or ATE. Many will race a full season on SRF with only the occasional bleed.
Personally, I run ATE and bleed it after each day at the track, but change it out once a season
Personally, I run ATE and bleed it after each day at the track, but change it out once a season
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#8
As far as I am concerned, the moment you open a can of brake fluid you have exposed it to moisture.. which is to say, the fluid is now "wet". Maybe not as "wet" as it will get with more time and exposure/heat/use.
That said, as with others, I have been fine with ole ATE Blue.. sure, i may have to bleed the brakes more often than with Motul or the Castrol, but certainly don't need to flush the entire system after every event. Flush at beginning of season and bleed before each event has been a fine procedure for me. And at $13/pt, its not as expensive either.
That said, as with others, I have been fine with ole ATE Blue.. sure, i may have to bleed the brakes more often than with Motul or the Castrol, but certainly don't need to flush the entire system after every event. Flush at beginning of season and bleed before each event has been a fine procedure for me. And at $13/pt, its not as expensive either.
#10
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FWIW in my endurance GT2 race car (800+hp) i flush the brake fluid once a season and only bleed twice with SRF..
I have run SRF in all my cars from 935, Spice GTP, Lola Can-Am, Olds GT1, GT2, etc...
great results in all...
That being said depending on application there very well may be something else that will work well....
I just stick with what I know has worked for me.
In the end it is cheap insurance.
Norm
I have run SRF in all my cars from 935, Spice GTP, Lola Can-Am, Olds GT1, GT2, etc...
great results in all...
That being said depending on application there very well may be something else that will work well....
I just stick with what I know has worked for me.
In the end it is cheap insurance.
Norm
#11
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the dry point is academic, no one really compare that. you want wet.
#12
Nordschleife Master
#14
Nordschleife Master
there was a debate sometime last year here on racing/de or GT2/3 forum regarding this. As Mooty pointed out, dry is academic. when you OPEN that can, you can throw the DRY point out of the equation. Pay attention to the wet and then compare the brands. The 3 most common lines people choose are ATE, Motul, and SRF. I have run them as well. ATE blows. Bleed ALOT if you are hard on the brakes as it will get boiled very easily. Motul is really good but still requires bleeding after every event. SRF is second to none. I have flushed once a year and bleed after each brake changed (twice a season...Spring/Summer/Fall).