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Best R comp track tire for 2 driver car, most life?

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Old 01-23-2008, 09:08 PM
  #31  
Bull
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Originally Posted by Apex Rex
On a 996, co-driven for some events by my dad and myself, he got over 50 HC's last season from a set of R6s and still no cords. If the car was co-driven by someone more capable than I, there might be more wear. Oh yeah, and they survived the Pocono infield landing strip too...
Yes, but there was zero wear during the Pocono "flight" as I remember watching. Tough on the spoilers as I recall though.
Old 01-23-2008, 10:48 PM
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Huh... I have 20 heat cycles on my first set of R6's. I was thinking that I would have to replace them before the beginning of the season because of what I was told from an instructor. I definitely have noticed that they're not as grippy as they were for the first 10 cycles (cut to dream sequence: I remember that day at Watkins Glen - as seen in my avatar photo - where I was punishing everyone in my run group by lapping them) But by the end of the season at Pocono, my ego was taking a hit as I was not as fast.
Old 01-23-2008, 11:19 PM
  #33  
38D
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I would go with 235/275 MPSCs. They last well, and are still decently fast into the 30 Heat cycle range. I personally hated the RA-1s. At full tread depth the squirm is just horrid. While the MPSCs do have some squirm when not shaved, it is not nearly as bad. And all the talk about trouble heating them up is vastly overblown IMO (in a 964 with 2 drivers, I doubt you will have any issues). I've run MPSCs in freezing temp with no issue. Heck, I ran them in ~40 degrees in the rain and they were still ok (not great, but drivable). With the MPSCs, you will undoubtedly heat cycle them out before you cord them (I'd guess in the 60+ heat cycle range is when they get really bad...I've run them up to somewhere just south of 50 HCs).
Old 01-24-2008, 02:30 AM
  #34  
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if you want long lasting, toyo is the way to go.
RA1 is great.
but if you can find the correct size, get R888, it is FAR superior than RA1, stickier and last just as long, stiffer sidewall. have your cake and eat it too.
Old 01-24-2008, 09:59 AM
  #35  
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The RA-1 is being phased out so I would foucs on the R888. 944 spec used to spec the RA-1 only for the series. For 2008 we are specing R888 and allowing people to use up their RA-1 supply since Toyo is just not making new RA-1's in 225/50 R15 anymore. Some dealers probalbly still have stock of RA-1s in that size, but our local Toyo dealer can't get them anymore from Toyo. Only the R888's.

Everything I know about the R888 is that they will NOT have the same tread squirm as the full tread RA-1s. In fact they will perform as good or better at full tread as 4/32 shaved RA-1s. I believe their only two downsides are increase road noise due to the larger tread blocks and not as good in super wet conditions as compared to full thread RA-1s. I do think the average wet conditions with tread the R888 will be fine and on track noise is irrelvant.
Old 01-24-2008, 10:03 AM
  #36  
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Chodaboy,

Keep your eye on hot pressures. If they all of the sudden stop coming up to temp (I am talking about Hoosiers and a weekend at VIR), stop. Mine were coming up to 40 all weekend long. Then at the end of a run, the fronts, which had more cycles than the rears, only came up to 37. Next session, I was on the climbing esses, turned for the second left and got nothing...nada...zilch. Turned the wheel and it was as if I had done nothing. Both feet in and turned the wheel straight just before hitting the grass. Left the pavement at at least 90 (I normally enter the esses at 110 and feather down to 105 by the second left) and drove straight up the hill aimed at the right side corner worker station. "God please stop me. God please stop me, God please stop me." I stopped 20 yards shy of the tires. Drove gently back to the paddock and changed my shorts (and my tires).
Old 01-24-2008, 10:56 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by racer
with nearly 400hp, you might want a 275-295 width rear, rather than a 265 as you mentioned earlier, to help put the power down. 225-245 front. RA1/R888 seem to have the best "life" for an R comp, but that is a relative term. What do you think would be a "good" number of days/events? 8 days? 12 days? 4 events? Getting great life all comes down to suspension set up and driving style. Even with my modest SC, overdriven naturally so I could win the DE Championships , I could just barely squeak out a 6 (2-day) event summer, with some AX mixed in, as a 1 driver car with RA-1s.
Actually that is my turbo and it is too nice for track use (this is where everyone throws stones ) I love the car and some day will take it out for an event but would hate to see anything happen to it. Can't be replaced since it is a one of a kind.

We plan on doing almost every event our region has this year and a few more maybe 12 in total so 25-30 days of duel driving, but not sure yet, tough to work into the schedule and still make time for AX and (yes i am saying this Concours)

The track car is a 93 C2 slightly modified, LWF, exhaust work dynoed at 240 to the wheels. H&R red bilstein HD's, lowered negative camber, TRG sways solid bushings, big reds, etc etc. Car handles very well. The poor PS2's were rolling over on their edges last year (although perfect tread wear) and that was before some recent mods. I can't live with another season like that but want my wife to work her way up gradually. I wanted her to start on street tires to get to learn the car since it was her first time driving a 911. I am too old to race but love track driving so I am looking to have fun with some grip instead of sliding around on street tires. Just happy to be out there.

Originally Posted by bobt993
Keeping in mind your wife driving the car ( my wife drives also). Nitto or RA-1. Unless you plan to teach your wife how to really warm up a set of MPSCs, then forgetaboutit. She is not going to push enough to get grip on MPSCs and be frustrated (ask me how I know). The other problem is pressures. Your driving styles may be very different so optimum for you is going to as much as 3-4psi more than what she gets during a run session. One last tire I have seen two driver cars use is the Hankooks. I have no opinion on them, but they seem to be happy with the results.
I understand and we do drive at extremes so keeping an eye on pressures especially back to back sessions is nearly impossible. I think she will be a lot more aggressive this year although I want her to be safe. Last year she was pushing a bit too hard through the climbing S's at VIR and did a nice 1080. I am still trying to get the dirt out of the ventilation system.

Originally Posted by 38D
I would go with 235/275 MPSCs. They last well, and are still decently fast into the 30 Heat cycle range. I personally hated the RA-1s. At full tread depth the squirm is just horrid. While the MPSCs do have some squirm when not shaved, it is not nearly as bad. And all the talk about trouble heating them up is vastly overblown IMO (in a 964 with 2 drivers, I doubt you will have any issues). I've run MPSCs in freezing temp with no issue. Heck, I ran them in ~40 degrees in the rain and they were still ok (not great, but drivable). With the MPSCs, you will undoubtedly heat cycle them out before you cord them (I'd guess in the 60+ heat cycle range is when they get really bad...I've run them up to somewhere just south of 50 HCs).
You like that 235/275 combo. I corded the RA-1's you sold me and plan on staying with those for AX but will have a hard time fitting them on 18's and still have clearance. I am currently running 225/265's but will look into fitments for these wheels and car. Seems I have a lot to think about glad I started early gives me time to think this out.

Originally Posted by dbryant61
Chodaboy,

Keep your eye on hot pressures. If they all of the sudden stop coming up to temp (I am talking about Hoosiers and a weekend at VIR), stop. Mine were coming up to 40 all weekend long. Then at the end of a run, the fronts, which had more cycles than the rears, only came up to 37. Next session, I was on the climbing esses, turned for the second left and got nothing...nada...zilch. Turned the wheel and it was as if I had done nothing. Both feet in and turned the wheel straight just before hitting the grass. Left the pavement at at least 90 (I normally enter the esses at 110 and feather down to 105 by the second left) and drove straight up the hill aimed at the right side corner worker station. "God please stop me. God please stop me, God please stop me." I stopped 20 yards shy of the tires. Drove gently back to the paddock and changed my shorts (and my tires).

LOL yes this is a concern and so hard to do when running back to back. Usually I spend more time trying to switch the car around to fit me so i don't miss half my run but with R compounds I will need to focus more on pressures than before.

Great advice guys I have learned a lot. Glad I have time to really do more research on the tires themselves. So far for track use i am thinking either the R888 or MPSC to start. I will need more than one set of tires this season so I most likely will change brands mid season.

Although I am thinking it might make sense to buy a second set of 18" track wheels and experiment. Any good deals on 8 ET 51 and 9.5" ET 44 wheels for my C2. So much for saving money.
Old 01-24-2008, 01:34 PM
  #38  
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Kuhmo V700
Old 01-24-2008, 01:47 PM
  #39  
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Anthony-

Your car sounds pretty close to mine (hp & weight). I have run the car for a few years as a 2-driver car on both Hoosiers and Toyos.

My experience with the Toyos is that they do get a bit greasy at higher temps, but it is very progressive so a quick stop and adjustment of pressures cures the problem quickly. They are a bit slower than the Hoosiers, but they last (a lot) longer and are as predictable as the Hoosiers (for instance at the end of an enduro, etc..)

The Hoosiers seemed to be much more sensitive to the amount of camber that the car had. This effected the tire life greatly when running too much/not enough camber. However, the Hoosiers seemed to be much happier across a broader temp range. (way stickier on the first couple heat cycles btw!)

IMHO - if you are not as concerned with eeking every 10th of a second out of your lap times, and cost is a factor - run with the Toyos (shaved, of course).
Old 01-24-2008, 01:59 PM
  #40  
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We're a two driver family. Probably the 12 plus days (x2 drivers) annually and have terrific experience with mpsc's although our 993 is probably heavier than yours. We'll get through the season on 2 sets of cups, though neither of us is a terribly aggressive driver (hangs his head in middle aged shame). They like lots of camber. Cups stink in the rain, but they warm up just fine for DE if you're patient, and they wear like iron.
Just my 2 cents.
Old 01-24-2008, 04:17 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by dbryant61

I corded my front Hoosiers last Nov. while running at Roebling Road with Ted. I borrowed his "spent" RA-1s for the three sessions on Sunday that we stayed for (I also had to raise the front end one full turn to get them not to rub because they were 944 offset), and proceeded to take another 4 seconds a lap off. I was still on the steep portion of the learning-the-track curve. My next set will be RA-1 or R888s.
B*stard was still 2 seconds a lap faster than me with two of my "worn out" tires and the front end jacked up. At least he brought them back to me packaged in nice garbage bags.
Old 01-25-2008, 12:00 AM
  #42  
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Anyone have any comments on the Nitto NT01?
Old 01-25-2008, 08:03 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by mdrums
Anyone have any comments on the Nitto NT01?
Did you see my post#24???

Also, quite a bit of review of the NT01 in these threads:
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-and-drivers-education-forum/373338-nitto-nt01-how-many-heat-cycles-are-you-getting-here-s-mine.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-gt3-forum/327735-nitto-nt01-pics-and-specs-before-my-road-test.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-gt3-forum/335606-paging-lazy-lvdell-nitto-report-due-asap.html
Old 01-25-2008, 10:24 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by LVDell
Thanks Dell!
Old 01-25-2008, 11:57 AM
  #45  
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very welcome


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