Brakes
#1
Rennlist Member
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I have a 2001 996TT. Last year I used Pagid yelow (19) in the front and black (14) on the back. Wenr with the GT3RS ducts for cooling, and Castrol SRF. I give this as background.
I just picked up the GT2/GT3 full setup so will have 350 mm front and back, with 6 and 4 pistons monoblocks. Steel rotors.
Questions:
1 for those who have similar setup, what pads are you using for the track?
2 I am doing this myself. Any tricks with the parking brake setup? I have the directions for adjustment on a C2 from Renntech, but don't know if a TT is the same.
3 Rubber vs steel brake lines. I have asked this of a couple of people I consider knowledgable, and it was like starting a religuous war. Argument against was too smal an internal diameter which messed up the ABS.
I just picked up the GT2/GT3 full setup so will have 350 mm front and back, with 6 and 4 pistons monoblocks. Steel rotors.
Questions:
1 for those who have similar setup, what pads are you using for the track?
2 I am doing this myself. Any tricks with the parking brake setup? I have the directions for adjustment on a C2 from Renntech, but don't know if a TT is the same.
3 Rubber vs steel brake lines. I have asked this of a couple of people I consider knowledgable, and it was like starting a religuous war. Argument against was too smal an internal diameter which messed up the ABS.
#2
Race Director
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I have a 997S and use Motul600 brake fluid and Performance Friction PF97 pads for my DE's. I have used the Pagid Yellow's last year and they worked great too. I switch out the pads for each DE, no issues with the parking brake.
#5
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If you're going to track the car then you should definitely do steel brake lines. As far as pads go, I would use blacks on the back and yellow on the front. My rationale behind this is that the blacks have more initial bite than the yellows. As the car comes naturally set up from factory with higher braking pressure in the front (to avoid the back end coming around for the average driver), this will help to even out the braking pressure front/rear.
#6
Racer
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I would only switch from the OEM rubber lines if they need replacing. Porsche designed a very sturdy flexible rubber line. The braided steel flex lines are less expensive, and should be replaced every few years for you can not visibly determine when they may fail...at least the rubber line will form a buldge just before failure..
Pete
Pete
#7
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Why did you use different pads in front and rear last year? I only ask because you should know why you want a particular setup before trying it. You might try using only blacks (f&r) and see if you want to change the brake balance. Then you could try using different pads. Without a baseling, you won't know what, if anything, you have acheived.
Your brake lines are just fine. Leave them alone unless they are suspect.
Your brake lines are just fine. Leave them alone unless they are suspect.
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#8
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My car is set up very neutral. I really like Blacks front and rear for track. I leave them on for the street, and the occasional loud squeal is silenced by brief hard braking. I switched to SS brake lines and I (unscientific seat of the pants) felt an improvement in braking.
#9
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I started on the track with stock pads. Got to the point where I was cooking the pads - firm peddle but diminished braking. Went to yellow/black f/r to help offset the rear bias of the stock setup designed for street use. Added GT3RS ducts - still ended up wanting more brake, so am now going with the GT2/GT3 setup. Just did not know for sure if the same pad setup made sense since the front rear are now both different. Thanks for your guys input.
#11
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I've been told that if you go with steel braided lines, to ensure that they have a clear plastic coating over the outside of the steel braiding. Otherwise, dirt and grit will get into the weave of the steel braid and prematurely wear the inner coating of the line leading to a failure with no outwardly visible warning signs. Kind of a sanding effect as the line flexes.
#12
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I would start with the same pads front and rear and see where that gets you.
Also, there's no way you would feel the difference between stock lines that are in proper working order and steel lines. No way!
Also, there's no way you would feel the difference between stock lines that are in proper working order and steel lines. No way!
#13
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The 996Turbo, being such a pig (mine cornerweighted at 3564) needs the additional bite of the black pads in the rear for some is what I was told. I ran yellows last year and had no issues, and was pleased with them in the stock setup.
This year I'll be running something totally different, but retaining my ghetto nascar style brake cooling ducts.
Mike
This year I'll be running something totally different, but retaining my ghetto nascar style brake cooling ducts.
Mike