HELP!!! Fender rolling recommendations Bay Area
10-31-2007, 12:03 AM
#1
Racer
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HELP!!! Fender rolling recommendations Bay Area
Got my 17x10 CCW's wearing 275's in the rear. Unfortunately they hit the fender lip when I hit big bumps! Oh no!!! I'm looking at doing a trackday in a few days with my 911. Damn it!
Can anyone recommend a shop to roll my fenders? I'm pissed!
Can anyone recommend a shop to roll my fenders? I'm pissed!
10-31-2007, 12:31 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
Sure thing: Home Depot for a heat gun, then a sporting goods store for a baseball bat. Seriously- it's quick, easy, cheap, effective, and similar quality to a "fender roller" thingy. A virtual win-win-win.
10-31-2007, 12:36 AM
#5
Racer
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Are you sure this is safe? I don't want to crack the paint on the fender and I'm willing to pay someone to do it so I have someone to sue when they screw up! hahahhaa
Seriously though, TC Design Fab told me to take a rubber mallet and hit very softly towards the outside. They said it should take me about 15 passes to make the fender flare out. Is this kosher?
I'd much rather pay someone.
I figured in the racing forum people who've done this in the past would know.
THANKS GUYS!
Seriously though, TC Design Fab told me to take a rubber mallet and hit very softly towards the outside. They said it should take me about 15 passes to make the fender flare out. Is this kosher?
I'd much rather pay someone.
I figured in the racing forum people who've done this in the past would know.
THANKS GUYS!
10-31-2007, 08:34 AM
#6
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I doubt even a body shop would guarantee the paint won't crack, and that's if they have the proper roller to do it. You can make a real mess of things with a bat, is this just a track car or do you care about it? I'm surprised 10" wheels with 275's fit , best I could do is 9.5" Fikse's and 265 Pilot 2's on my 93.
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10-31-2007, 11:32 AM
#9
Three Wheelin'
I started the drill one of the holes out to make it work but didn't. Had my wrench roll it as the car was there getting an oil cooler. Got it to Road Atlanta and it still rubbed, doesn't now after a good talking to with a hammer... it still looks good from 50 feet away at 50 mph....
10-31-2007, 12:20 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
Are you sure this is safe? I don't want to crack the paint on the fender and I'm willing to pay someone to do it so I have someone to sue when they screw up! hahahhaa
Seriously though, TC Design Fab told me to take a rubber mallet and hit very softly towards the outside. They said it should take me about 15 passes to make the fender flare out. Is this kosher?
I'd much rather pay someone.
I figured in the racing forum people who've done this in the past would know.
THANKS GUYS!
Seriously though, TC Design Fab told me to take a rubber mallet and hit very softly towards the outside. They said it should take me about 15 passes to make the fender flare out. Is this kosher?
I'd much rather pay someone.
I figured in the racing forum people who've done this in the past would know.
THANKS GUYS!
10-31-2007, 01:38 PM
#11
Racer
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10-31-2007, 01:59 PM
#13
Mr. Excitement
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I have modified two of those to make them work. You have to cut all 5 bolt slots open on the ends and weld some 1/4 stock to close up the slots. They will fit fine after that. The patern is OK just a little too small. They are not worth the money or effort to make them work IMO. There are easy ways that work as well as the store bought tool. Even the store bought tool requires touch and some skill.
Don't use a wood or metal bat! Use PVC water pipe. 3 foot long section of 2 inch white PVC pipe and some spray lube to cut friction. The pipe works well as it is soft enough to not gall up the paint but stiff enough to turnthe metal back smoothly.
Clean the inside of the fender and lip well to remove all the grit and gunk. If you don't it will come loose and gall up in the paint helping to crack it away from the metal.
Heat the paint with a heat gun to the almost too hot to touch point and then ease the metal back using the pipe rolling it against the tire. You can tune the pressure by jacking the car up to ajust the tire to fender gap. Take your time and keep the paint hot to reduce the chance of cracking the paint. roll it back only as much as is needed and where it is needed. Increase the angle of the pipe as the fender rolls in.
Don't use a wood or metal bat! Use PVC water pipe. 3 foot long section of 2 inch white PVC pipe and some spray lube to cut friction. The pipe works well as it is soft enough to not gall up the paint but stiff enough to turnthe metal back smoothly.
Clean the inside of the fender and lip well to remove all the grit and gunk. If you don't it will come loose and gall up in the paint helping to crack it away from the metal.
Heat the paint with a heat gun to the almost too hot to touch point and then ease the metal back using the pipe rolling it against the tire. You can tune the pressure by jacking the car up to ajust the tire to fender gap. Take your time and keep the paint hot to reduce the chance of cracking the paint. roll it back only as much as is needed and where it is needed. Increase the angle of the pipe as the fender rolls in.
10-31-2007, 03:05 PM
#15
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I had this issue a while back with my car after I went to wider wheels/tires. The front passenger side rubbed a little in spirited driving. I rolled the fender with a jr. aluminum bat and it worked great. Then I did a track day and it rubbed again only worse. Fortunately I had he foresight to bring the bat with me. I ended up doing some serious rolling in the paddock.
Moral is make sure you get enough clearance especially if your going to the track.
Moral is make sure you get enough clearance especially if your going to the track.