Sean F

I've replaced everything but the MC. I think I'll do that now.

kurt M

If you did not at least double flush you were not boiling the SRF you were boiling the remaining Motul 600. I did some carefull testing on brake fluid flushing and even when you follow good methods and use a full quart through you have to flush, stir to dilute and flush again to get at most of the old fluid. 3rd time is the charm. Only after the 3rd time did a system with standard used fluid to start with boil test to the rating of clean SRF.
The MC has nothing to do with overheating the other end unless it is making them drag the pads. In that case I would look at the pedal cluster first. The pedal bushings can get stiff with age.

Increase cooling!

Gary R.

When is your next track day? I would do another good flush and then take a peek after each run group. I honestly think that ATE Blue is sufficient but I was thinking of going to SRF my next flush. With me a flush 2 times a year has proven more than adequate so going to $$$ SRF is no big deal. If I was in your shoes i'd stick with the $13 a flush ATE (Blue/Gold/BlueGold/etc.)..

38D

100% agree. There is no way you can boil SRF in a SC if I couldn't boil it in my 964 turbo. You must have something seriously wrong with the system.

Sean F

I think I'll got through a couple more cycles of SRF as recommended but then go back the the cheapest crap I can find if it doesn't work since I'll be flushing anyway.

Dan's getting the car on Thursday to fix the damn fuel problem so I'll have him take a look at the system.

chrisp

I thought faster lap times come with less braking.

Isn't the Glen typically easy on brakes? Lot's of opportunity to cool in between hard braking zones.

On a semi-related subject, someone needs to come up with a rear cooling kit.

KRA993tt

Regarding your clouding issue I would think this is more system related not use related. It sounds like everything is new on your car. Old braided brake lines are frequently brought up as a possible problem. The lines breaking down and not being able to see their condition inside the metal braid. Just a thought.

I have yet to boil my brakes. I've used up pads and calipers but nothing beyond track use. I'm likely not as fast as you are but running here in the southeast 102 degrees at Road Atlanta this summer no issues. WG this summer low 90's. CMP is notoriously tough on brakes and tires, no issues other than wear and tear.

Gary R.

Sean - are you running the flexible stainless steel hoses between the A-Arms/Trailing arms and the calipers? If so how old are they? Some people tend to leave them installed for years erroneously believing that because they are SS they last a long time. Their only real benefit is less expansion than rubber but the Teflon liner can deteriorate (in as little as 1 year i'm told) and cause strange problems. I run (new OEM) rubber lines there.

Sean F

I'm running year old SS lines. I'll replace them when I replace the MC. Good idea.

kurt M

Send them to me after you remove them please. They don't swell shut like the rubber ones. They crack and burst or leak.

Get a inexpensive digital IR thermometer. Use to take readings on all 4 rotors and other heated components to see if one or more are overheating from a bound piston or dragging pads.

Find if you are running hot and if so where and what. Other than that is conjecture. How you drove has a lot to do with heat as well.

Sean F

will do