Sean F

Do I understand it correctly that when brake fluid becomes cloudy it is because moisture has been introduced to the system? Would it also turn cloudy due to boiling? I flushed my brakes prior to going to the Glen this weekend and I flushed them again after the first day (both times with SRF) and the fluid was incredibly dark and cloudy - and seemed to be full of sediment. What are the possible causes? Is it possible for brake dust to get into the system if the caliper seals are bad?

TD in DC

There is NO way that you could degrade SRF so badly in one day at the track in an SC if your system were operating correctly . . .

I do not have the answer to why your fluid is contaminated, but I seriously doubt it is due to boiling, or that boiling itself could lead to sediment.

Gary R.

My guess would be contaminants within your lines or MC are breaking down and being carried away by the fluid. The only way for material can get past your caliper piston seals would be for the seals to be blown and fluid would be pumping out all over the place. Of course i'm just guessing but even after months of use when I flush my ATE Blue it's still pretty darn clean..

kurt M

Was this the first flush after changing over to SRF? If so i bet that you stired up old existing debris and moisture into the new fluid. I found that it takes 3 flush, drive hard and flush again cycles to clear 99% of the existing fluid from a standard brake system. A single flush does not get all the fluid.

chrisp

Is SRF your normal fluid? I'm just reaching at the idea that maybe if it were new to the system that the SRF somehow acted to dislodge sediment in the system.

Did you boil them and that's why you flushed a second time or were you trying to get rid of the cloudiness? I ask because the notion of boiling SRF seems out there and if you did boil it then maybe there's some other problem.

Sean F

I flush my fluid almost after every event because I boil the fluid at every event. This was my first day running on SRF. I flushed them because I boiled them on the first day running the SRF. I usually run Motul 600, but switched to the SRF thinking it would give me a little extra temp to play with. I'm starting to think that I might have a master problem.

TD in DC

If you are boiling SRF, there is something seriously wrong with your braking system or your braking methodology. That simply should not be happening, even if you are abusing your brakes . . . seriously.

An SC can only go so fast, and it only weighs so much . . . and SRF is more than sufficient for the far faster, and way heavier, modern porsches . . .

Sean F

I actually know of much worse abuse to SC brakes. A very fast former SC driver not only would always boil the fluid, but would go through a set of pads, rotors and calipers in a race weekend. He would get so much heat in the system that the caliper bores would go out of round.

chrisp

They were putting new calipers on every weekend? I knew about his pad and rotor consuming habits but adding calipers to that list is amazing.

TD in DC

Brake venting and cooling is open, right? I just do not see how this in any way should be possible . . . really. It makes zero sense to me.

Sean F

Almost. One time I was at the shop and I pointed to a large stack of caliper boxes and asked what they were. He replied, Mike's casualties.

Sean F

The brakes for these cars were marginal for the application at the time. Throw in driving on the track plus very sticky tires and kaboom.

Having said that, I do think I have some kind of a problem.

TD in DC

Yes, I know that big reds are a popular upgrade (unavailable to you obviously), but with proper brake cooling and ducting, and a properly operating system with SRF (I mean mother of god the boiling point for SRF is high) and quality pads/rotors . . . I cannot imagine that you could not make the system work . . .

Sean F

It is hard to believe and some guys don't seem to have a problem. Gary R. hardly ever changes his fluid and we run very similar lap times. But, I've run across many guys in my same spot. Just can't seem to get a combo that works right. I've tried just about everything. At least I'm not cracking rotors right now like I was before

TD in DC

Why not replace the entire $%^&* system with new/rebuilt parts? New MC, new lines, rebuilt calipers, etc . . . ?

This is something I personally would not fool around with. Sure, it will be expensive, but you could at least start with a fresh entirely new system and go from there. I bet it would elminate your issues, or at least come close.