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Pagid pad install

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Old 08-30-2007, 01:48 PM
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NVRANUF
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Default Pagid pad install

Not sure WTF I did wrong......

Installed a set of Pagid yellows last night per instructions and the deal went very well. Took the car out to bed the pads in and never got past the 90-50mph initial stops in a ~5 mile drive. My rear pads look baked!! The fronts look just fine.

Any ideas where I went wrong on such a straight forward install???

Should have never tried this 2 days before a DE.......
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Old 08-30-2007, 02:27 PM
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Kerry
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The first picture, with the white oxide coated pads and the flaking rotor surface is your REAR pad?
Old 08-30-2007, 02:38 PM
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John H
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I wonder if your calipers might not need to be rebuilt. Looks to me like the pads are not releasing from the disc and are building up some incredible heat.
Old 08-30-2007, 03:22 PM
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rdstemler
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I got a set of RS-19s for my GT3 (996) and couldn't get the calipers to open wide enough to prevent binding, ie. the wheel (rear) wouldn't spin freely when the car was on jacks. I did move however. I slowly drove out the driveway and around a short block and returned. No speed at all. I was hoping a little rotation would solve the problem.

The rotor was really hot when I got back. I removed the pads when cool and sanded them until they fit, ie the wheel would spin. Everything worked fine from then on!!

Perhaps you need to do the same???
Old 08-30-2007, 03:37 PM
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sjanes
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Peter,

Jack up the rear of the car and try to spin the rear wheels. I'm with the others that the rear pads are not coming off the rotors fully. That looks like some incredible heat for the rears on the street. Ya didn't have the parking brake on did ya?
Old 08-30-2007, 03:48 PM
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insite
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Originally Posted by John H
I wonder if your calipers might not need to be rebuilt. Looks to me like the pads are not releasing from the disc and are building up some incredible heat.
agreed. this is a snowball type process, too. the heat softens the inner seals, which are then unable to retract the pistons. this cause the brakes to drag, and, in turn, more heat to be generated. you probably need new seals. get them here: http://www.zeckhausen.com/Brembo/Con...es.htm#Rebuild

if you have a 997, you'll need:

2 x 143.99028 (28mm seals)
2 x 143.99030 (30mm seals)

soak the inner seals in brake fluid for 30min prior to installation. clean pistons w/ isopropyl alcohol.
Old 08-30-2007, 03:49 PM
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insite
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BTW, the funky look on your rotor is where het + the ferrous material in the pads combine to form austenite 'hot spots.'
Old 08-30-2007, 04:13 PM
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chrisp
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is that the silver stuff that's bubbling up and flaking off? it looks like 80% of the rotor has this stuff on it.
Old 08-30-2007, 05:29 PM
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RonCT
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Wow, that's something! I'll say this, when I put my Oranges on, the rears were very tight, but obviously not as tight as yours. I had some minor dragging, which was gone after a couple of hundred miles (by the time I got to Watkins Glen). You must have had one heck of a time just getting them on. Must be Pagid just makes a very thick pad -- thicker than OEM for sure and thicker than the PFC 97s I sampled.

I'm no mechanic, but I'm not sure you need to rebuild anything -- might be you just have to clean up the rotors and reduce the thickness of the rears (then again, might be thin enough now).
Old 08-30-2007, 05:31 PM
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insite
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Originally Posted by chrisp
is that the silver stuff that's bubbling up and flaking off? it looks like 80% of the rotor has this stuff on it.
i think it's a combination of pad material and martensite more precisely. the austenite forms when enough heat & ferro-carbon material are mixed. when it cools, the martensite forms. it's much harder & more brittle than the iron rotor is supposed to be. doesn't sink heat as well, either, exacerbating the problem.
Old 08-30-2007, 05:35 PM
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insite
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Originally Posted by RonCT
I'm no mechanic, but I'm not sure you need to rebuild anything -- might be you just have to clean up the rotors and reduce the thickness of the rears (then again, might be thin enough now).
if the problem was caused by excessive pad thickness, there's a good chance a rebuild is still required. the inner seals are made of EPDM. they're designed to retract the brake pistons as well as seal the fluid. when they overheat, they lose duro (hardness) and their ability to retract the pistons. the result is dragging brakes, which can lead to this same problem again.

it's possible that the seals did NOT overheat. they need to be at sustained temps greater than about 550F to degrade. it's possible IF the problem was caused by excessive pad thickness that the seals never saw sufficient heat for a long enough time to degrade.
Old 08-30-2007, 06:03 PM
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Thanks for all the replies guys!! I just took a ~200 mile Hwy ride and they look much better. They seem to work fine with numerous repeated "rapid slow downs" from 90+ mph. No pulling, no fading.... and best of all, no over heating!!!

The rears were a somewhat tighter install and did bind a bit at first..... I should (woulda shoulda coulda)have done what rdstemler suggested.....

LOL, and no Stacy my P-brake wasn't on!!!

Thanks for the insights..... insite

I will take it very easy tomorrow and see how they work on the track.
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Old 08-30-2007, 06:16 PM
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mdrums
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Which Yellows did you put in the RS19 or 29? I have the 29's and the rears are howling with light pressure just before a complete stop.
Old 08-30-2007, 07:08 PM
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NVRANUF
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Originally Posted by mdrums
Which Yellows did you put in the RS19 or 29? I have the 29's and the rears are howling with light pressure just before a complete stop.
I have RS-19's, they are somewhat noisy. I wouldn't go so far as to say they are howling, but they make noise when coming to a stop... unlike stockers.

Will have a much better idea after a day at the track and they are properly set in.


Old 08-30-2007, 07:36 PM
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FLA997
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My RS-19 Yellows are so loud I'm surprised glass doesnt break for miles around...


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