Oil line rerout ? (xpost on 911 forum)
03-20-2007, 10:32 AM
#1
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Oil line rerout ? (xpost on 911 forum)
I want to put 275's on the rear wheels of my SC for the track and I need to rerout the oil lines out of the wheel well...what is the best way to do this?
03-20-2007, 11:05 AM
#2
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If they are the same as a Carrera, you shouldn't have to "re-route" them. You just need to bend them a little so that they tuck-in right next to the inner fender. An electrician's conduit bender works great for that little bit of tweeking. I think that a 1" bender works, but it has been a long time since I did that.
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Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
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Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
03-20-2007, 11:42 AM
#3
i don't have my car so i can't double check which line is which but.....
there are two lines running one on top of the other. You need to switch the over-under of the soft line part (no need to change the orientation of the hard line part) and zip tie them back. This requires disconnecting the line and reorienting it relative to the other line. Some get a zip tie that has a head which accepts a screw so you can screw it to something. Screw it to the engine tin just behind the oil lines. Wrap something around the oil line to keep the zip tie from cutting into it.
This is a horrible description but once you look at the car maybe you'll understand what I am talking about.
Did you do the alignment nut grinding already?
there are two lines running one on top of the other. You need to switch the over-under of the soft line part (no need to change the orientation of the hard line part) and zip tie them back. This requires disconnecting the line and reorienting it relative to the other line. Some get a zip tie that has a head which accepts a screw so you can screw it to something. Screw it to the engine tin just behind the oil lines. Wrap something around the oil line to keep the zip tie from cutting into it.
This is a horrible description but once you look at the car maybe you'll understand what I am talking about.
Did you do the alignment nut grinding already?
03-20-2007, 12:11 PM
#5
no problem. You didn't mention it so I brought it up.
there are two alingment bolts on the spring plate. Not the bolts that secure the control arm (banana arm) to the spring plate. You'll see the potential interference and which nut I am talking about when you poke your head back there.
The nut and bolt need to be ground down to provide the added clearance. You're looking to grind them down about 1/2 of their current thickness. Get a decent angle disc grinder and it'll make quick work of this.
there are two alingment bolts on the spring plate. Not the bolts that secure the control arm (banana arm) to the spring plate. You'll see the potential interference and which nut I am talking about when you poke your head back there.
The nut and bolt need to be ground down to provide the added clearance. You're looking to grind them down about 1/2 of their current thickness. Get a decent angle disc grinder and it'll make quick work of this.
