chancecasey

Yes, the plastic deformation areas would need to be gussetted in some way with some sheet metal and welding. That I could do myself, but making sure I find all the areas that need it might be tricky. I would be happy with a 2mm tolerance - the tolerance of FRP parts is around that ballpark anyway. As long as the suspension areas are intact, 2mm is very workable. Prior to dismantling it, might be worth hauling it to an alignment shop and see how far off it is. I had it aligned just days before the event, so if it's spot on or severely off that will definitely weigh in to the decision of whether or not to pull it.

chancecasey

If you want the ins. company name PM me.

genikz

Bummer. Seems like a recurring theme (Cal. Speedway, March 2006):


Not my car by the way.

chancecasey

"not my car by the way"

Yes, yes, now I'm "THAT guy" - I know, rub it in

At least my bumper was still attached...

jaholmes

If you decide to fix it take it to a shop that has a Cellete frame bench. This is close to what the factory uses to build the cars. Even if you don't think the frame is tweaked it probaby is by a hair. Plus, a good shop will put it on a Cellete when they pound out the dents, it keeps everything in place as they work on it.

I too have seen a few questionable cars and they can be fixed. There are a few GT3's and Cup cars with complete front clips and Porsche has a tough time catching it.

chancecasey

Sounds great - guess I'll have to call all the shops in town to find one. Unless someone knows of someone with one in the SF Bay Area...

RedlineMan

Hey All;

Colin - HSS is indeed repairable. It has higher strength properties than normal mild steel. It bends harder, which means both ways. It can sometimes be advantageous to get the frame pulling done quixckly, as cars that set for a long time can "take a set." it is also marginally more difficult to wrk, and will fatigue and crack quicker than normal steel. Heating it is not a good idea.

It is somewhat similar to the difference between soft grades of aluminum (3003, 5052, etc), and the hardened varieties (6061 T4, T6, etc.) you can bend the soft stuff all day long, but the hard stuff will not take more than one bend and it snaps. It is not that extreme, but marginally similar.

You will find one large buckle in the right frame rail somewhere alongside the engine or at the suspnesion beam. Any other movement of that rail will probably be a milder sway. thew left rail will also have some sway, and perhaps an outside break point, but it is "sympathetic" and should not present a real problem.

HSS does not work as well when you have a buckled rail. In the old days you could put a pull on a rail, use a little heat perhaps, and spring hammer the wrinkles out. HSS does not work as well. You can spring hammer them, and use a uni-spotter to weld pulling pins on to pull out the wrinkles with a slide hammer. If it is not too badly mangled, the rail might be saved. If there are severe folds, some portions should likely be sectioned out and rewelded.



This was a pretty nasty fold in the rail of my S2. I could have fixed this rail, but I was more concerned with the cosmetics of everything else attached to it, so I clipped it.

I imagine the shop rates are pretty steep out there. Last time I knew, frame rates were around $45-50/hr around here. Figure on 10-15 hours if you strip it. Dropping the driveline would make it much easier.

Let me know if you need any advice. I used to do this stuff for a living in case you were not aware. Damage appraisals too. Well... I guess I still do!

sjanes

Agree. The shop that fixed my car used a Cellette bench, and it was straighter after the accident than before (Targas sag a bit over time). Mine wasn't as damaged near as much as your's looks to be though.

RedlineMan

Oh...

The frame machine is largely irrelevant. It's the guy using it. An old timer around here used to use multiple chain fall winches on a drive in pit. He was a freakin dead eye. You knew when you got it back from him that the tin would lay right on with no hassle. I've worked with guys using $50k benches that couldn't straighten a paper clip.

joseph mitro

if it helps, i had Progressive insurance who completely covered an on-track incident which totalled my M3 one year ago. they were great.

jaholmes

I forgot to mention the paint. Pick a shop that uses Glasurit, that's what the factory uses.

Tom W

Chance: If you want to turn that car into a GTL class car, talk to Rich Walton at Jerry Woods. After more than a year of working on mine, he'll be able to give guidance on what could be done.

DaveM993

Wow!!! Would love to read your policy!!! I have Progressive also. My policy language basically says "You wad it up on a permanent or temporary race track, no matter what you are doing, don't bother calling us..."

...they say it much nicer though...

JC in NY

So true. Don't worry about tools the guy uses to fix your car. Just make sure you trust him to do it properly. Celette bench is just a tool that some guys use to fix Porsche. But not essential by any means.

Weekend Rides

Sorry to see this one damaged but I will put my hand up in air to buy it as it is if you are selling. Always happy to buy you another as part of the deal, perfect one too!