Skip Wolfe

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by RSAErick:
<strong>I just purchased a Motive power bleeder, but haven't received it yet.

Let me get this straight... you don't put brake fluid IN the power bleeder? You just pressurize with air (being careful not to drain the reservoir). I figured that you filled the power bleeder with fluid and then pressurized it so that it would continually fill the reservoir with fluid. Was I wrong?

Thanks.
Erick</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">No you put the fluid in the Powerbleeder tank. This keeps a constant flow of fluid going into the resevoir so you don't have to keep taking the unit off and refilling the resevoir with fluid. They have pretty good instructions - follow them and you will be fine.

Tom W

There have been a number of discussions on the 993 board regarding why not to manually pump the brakes to bleed them. I think two people reported damage because of this procedure.

There is a simple post on p-car.com ( <a href="http://p-car.com/diy/flush.html" target="_blank">here</a> ) that describes the procedure. Don't forget that there are two bleed nipples for each wheel (one on each side/caliper) and that's why the "t" is recommended. I simply hook up both hoses at once. With the power bleeder the speed nipples are unnecessary.

If you alternate between super blue fluid and the amber ATE 200 fluid, it's very easy to see when you have cleaned out all the old fluid and can move to the next wheel.

911pcars

You should use the pressure tank to only pressurize the reservoir. There's actually no harm done if you put brake fluid in the tank (I assume the seals are compatible with BF). However, the tank should be scrupulously clean otherwise you will introduce contamination into the brake system.

In addition, after the job is over, you should deep six the remaining fluid as the storage of a previously opened container attracts moisture which lowers the boiling temp. rating of the fluid (this is the wet boiling point spec on the can).

I prefer gravity bleeding which uses a minimum amount of brake fluid (even for a complete system drain) and allows the maximum removal of air. Using other bleeding methods and a premium brand of BF, this could add up to a lot of money down the drain.

I understand ATE Blue is no longer being brought into the states since our government says BF must be amber colored.

Sherwood Lee
<a href="http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars</a>

RSAErick

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by 911pcars:
<strong>...
I prefer gravity bleeding which uses a minimum amount of brake fluid (even for a complete system drain) and allows the maximum removal of air. Using other bleeding methods and a premium brand of BF, this could add up to a lot of money down the drain....Sherwood Lee
<a href="http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars</a></strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Pardon my ignorance, but what is "gravity bleeding"? Is this the standard way of bleeding that involves pumping the brakes to generate pressure?
Thanks.
Erick

Anir

Definitely the Motive Power Bleeder. Best tool I ever bought, and it will pay for itself after one avoided trip to the dealer. Don't waste money on suction units such as the one sold by Griot's (ask me how I know <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" /> ).

A930Rocket

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by RSAErick:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by 911pcars:
<strong>...
I prefer gravity bleeding which uses a minimum amount of brake fluid (even for a complete system drain) and allows the maximum removal of air. Using other bleeding methods and a premium brand of BF, this could add up to a lot of money down the drain....Sherwood Lee
<a href="http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars</a></strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Pardon my ignorance, but what is "gravity bleeding"? Is this the standard way of bleeding that involves pumping the brakes to generate pressure?
Thanks.
Erick</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Gravity bleeding is where you hook up your brake bleeding hose as usual, but instead of pumping the brakes or pressurizing them in some form, you simply open the bleeder screw and let gravity drain the fluid out. Don't forget to keep an eye on the brake master cylinder reservoir. I don't use it, but it's supposed to be a good way to do it.

Jim

Dave in Chicago

Gravity bleeding is handy when you suck air into the clutch. Do it for about 30 minutes (it's a slooooowwwww process). Otherwise, the Motive Power Bleeder is the hot set up, hands down. My 12-year old has been bleeding my P-car brakes for 2+ years now. Nice solid pedal, no issues.

Try the power bleeder, you will never go back...